PROBLEM SOLVED! Why is my motor running cool? Help!

So some of you battle cars that run way too hot I am battling the opposite. My chevy has a 180 degree thermostat with an aluminum rad with an electric fan on a toggle switch. When I fire up the car the temp gauge climbs to 180 degrees and then when the thermostat opens it drops between 150 degrees and 160 degree s running down the highway. When I run in town from light to light it runs between 150 degrees and 160 degree. Sitting in the driveway the temperature will climb normally. Once it hits the 190 mark I can throw the fan on and it will bring the temp down to 170 degrees where it will sit there for ever.

So what is going?
I have bought a brand new 180 thermostat and tested it before I installed it.
I am running 50/50 coolant water mix
I installed a new 9 lb rad cap and my coolant recovery system is working
My gauges have been checked and they are fine

How can I get this thing to run a little hotter?

 

Pop a 190° thermostat in there.

Why do you want it to run hotter? Sounds like your temps are good.

 

It's working fine. What do you think it should be?

 

190 ? how will this help?

 

I am thinking it should be running 180 down the highway and about 190 going through town. I have heard that is the best operating temp. I have been told that running too cool can be hard on a motor. For instance it has been a cool driving season so far in Canada and the car actually ran 140 degrees going down the highway last weekend
Jay

 

I been told that too cool doesnt burn the fuel as good,

 

That is what I heard too. Supposedly it is hard on the engine internals too but I personally don't know exactly what it does.
Jay

 

Try covering up some of the front of the radiator.

 

I'm in the same boat as g***erkid, my big block 55 rarely gets over 170* *(temps checked with laser and gauge) ****s in winter because the heater is only warm. Last year I installed a/c and idleing with it on will eventually raise temps to 200*. I run a desert cooler rad, 7 blade flex fan,shroud, FloKooler wp. I'd like to see 190-200 on the highway.

 

I did that but that is kinda cheese. Lol It did bump the temp up man. Hmmmm....

 

I answered your PM, but this is for the board and general knowledge. 140 does seem a little low, but if it's only doing it at night, like you PMed, I wouldn't worry about it.

This past winter, it was cool in Houston and my temps ran around 140-150 everyday. No damage and no change in gas mileage. My thermostat is a 160. In Houstons heat, I run about 160-170. In heavy traffic, it climbs, but not too hot, maybe 180-190.

I think yours is fine. 140 may be a little low, but if it's only at night, on the highway, I wouldn't sweat it.

I know guys that would love to be running your temps.

 

yer complainin?

WISH my Merc would run cool -------------------

anyways

 

It seems that I am not alone! Lolololol It is that big grill. Are you running a 180 stat?

 

Good point man.

 

Amen to that!!!

Great looking 55 btw!

 

Thanks man.
Jay

 

Also, when I first built my T, I had a radiator that I got off Ebay. My car ran 160 or below ALL the time. Even in heavy traffic. I took out the thermostat and checked it, but it was fine. That cheap *** radiator was just adman good one. I think it was from Superior and I paid $400 for it.

If I could get one to fit the grill shell I have now, I'd get it. I never had a problem running 160.

Consider yourself lucky. And as suggested, you could always cover some of the radiator. I see the big rigs run those mesh covers in the winter to keep them warm. I'd do that rather than mess with what you have.

 

Yes, I am. A high flow with drilled vent holes in it.

 

Making a good point man. True enough. Thanks man

 

Ah !! in some cases the vent hole lets enough water through the stat so it does not work corectly. A 1/16 hole is big enough 3/32 if you must,bigger than that you can have issues.

 

No vent hole in mine man. But I have heard what you are saying before. Some definately good info

 

I agree...
Why are you folks drilling holes in your t-stats?


PS, just out of curiosity what kind of pulley set up do you have, maybe you pump is being under or over driven. Although I'm inclined to think you just have an efficient cooling system.

 

The "vented" stat was $10 more than non vented, I just copied the hole size and made my own holes in the same place.

 

There is about 1/8" between them so they're about the same size.
The holes are to eliminate air pockets in the system, and supposedly allow flow in case the stat sticks closed.

 

I just did 700+ miles a few weeks ago, mine never got over 120 (cold and raining) It runs 160 normally but will get hot when stuck in traffic for more than about 10 minutes. Its been this way for about 8 years. I quit worrying about it a few years ago.

 

Probably a dumb question, but is your temp gauge accurate?

 

My 23 with a 350 Chevy had exactly the same problems you are describing and it wasn't running efficiently because of the cool temperatures. I played around and finally found out some things that helped.

1) Where you are taking the temp reading from is critical. I was getting a 150 reading with the sender in the rear of the intake, but got 170 when I moved it to the hole next to the thermostat in the front of the block.

2) My aluminum radiator, and probably yours, was just too efficient. The top hose on my radiator would get hot but the bottom hose was so cool I could keep my hand on it and it was just warm to the touch.

3) I put a 190 degree thermostat in instead of the 180 I had been running and the temps got up into the 180 range and the car ran better there. The hotter thermostat keeps the water in the block longer. For some reason, sbc engines just run cooler than sbf engines. Must be something in the block design.

I rarely had to turn on my electric fan at lights because by the time the light changed the car was only getting to the 190 or so range. Hope this helps you out.

Don

 

Tell that to a Dyno or at the drag strip. My car always runs higher numbers on the dyno and faster times at the track at 160 degrees. Anyone saying that you will build sludge at theat temp is full of **** especially with todays oils. I run a 160 stat in all my cars and even in the winter, it blows heat out the vents like a fire!! My friends always say when they ride with me to turn down the heat. I sold a Pontiac engine with 240,000 miles on it to a guy and he didn't want the valve covers. He asked me if I was sure I had 240,000 on it as the cast iron on the heads looked like brand new. I run 7 cars with 160 stats and have been doing so for 35+ years with no engines ever needing rebuilt. The engine in the car I race that was built in 1991 had a particle break off my exploded hamonic balancer in 2005. When I took the pan off and inspected the bearings before changing the oil pump looked brand new and I mean new!! I will never run hotter. Its all for emissions.

 

Tell that to my 1936 Ford with a 351. It has the small byp*** hose off the thermostat and this engine will not get hotter than 145 when moving. When it sits, it will climb to 180 before the electric fan kicks on. Soon as I start moving, same thing back down to 145!!! I was going up Snoqualmie p*** at 75-80 mph and it got to 150 degrees!!! I'm tempted to block that small 3/4" byp*** hose as this is the second thermostat I put in.

 

I'm just talking generally. Over the years I have had a bunch of sbc powered cars and a bunch of sbf powered cars and the Chevies were always easier to keep cool. Your results may vary.

Don