Projects 63 fairlane build **Camshft 1-3 build starting on pg 4**

So i have read just about every post online regarding this issue and I still do not know if i should use this camshaft in my build. build info.

289 .040 over
289 heads with 1.84,1.54 valves 53cc
10.05:1 CR
C90X intake
Autolite 4100 1.12
Tri Y headers

Motors going in a 63 fairlane with 10T 4speeed with 3.50 gears. Possibly going to 3.80,4.11 if needed.

The cam in question is the c7fe-6250-a Lemans cam. I have a TRW\Speed Pro version of it already.

Can I get some real world advise from guys who have run this cam and why they Loved it or hated it.

Car will be a Friday Night\weekend warrior car. Might drive it to work once and a while.

Thanks in advance

 

I would like to see what the "experts" say as well.

 

Which 351 W valves did you use ? How big is the chambers?

 

He said 53cc's......

 

Not a very good choice in my opinion, 3500 - 7200 RPM cam very rough idle, 430 gear or more.

Something like this would make more sense, similar lift, better lobe, much less duration.

 

I would go with the one you have looks good and should have that classic sound.

 

Valve size and headers added.. Have contacted Comp Cams and worked out a custom grid Solid lifter also.

Specs are

110 Lobe Sep
Dur@50 230 IN 236EX
valve lift .522in .536ex

But already have the above stated cam(in OP) and have heard so many conflicting story's regarding the Le-mans cam.

Hoop98 Is the 282S a modern version of the HIPO cam

 

If the car is going to be a weekend warrior, I would go deeper than 3.50's in the rear. 4.11-4.30 would be my choice (and was in my 27). It let's the engine get into it's power band like immediately.

Don

 

No that's the C30ZS.

 

Don the car has 3.50 in the rear stock! so that s what I'm working with already. Maybe I will have to do the T5 swap after all and run a set of 4.30's would make the car i little more useable.

 

why would you want a solid cam on the street ???
go hydraulic set it and forget it
I would use the comp cams xe268h with upgraded springs
and roller rockers
600 cfm holley or edelbrock carb
with a performer rpm intake or F4B intake
engine will make great power from about 1500 rpm to 5800 rpm
4.10 gears and hang on!

 

That cam is designed for a light car. 2000 lbs or less and a rev limit of around 8500. It will be a bitch on the street to keep cleaned out. It is also designed for lots of CFM. Fords 2x4 set that was used on that cam was 2 - 600 holleys.

 

Good friend of mine drove a 67 Mustang coupe daily with a 302 and a Lemans cam. ( About 7-8 miles to work and back, it was his only car at the time, we were 19) I built the engine for him Torker 1, 650 Holley, 3.55 gears 2400 stall in the C4. Heads were ported 289 w/ 1.94x1.60 valves. Car ran 13.10's on street tires 12.70's with a 100hp plate shot. Run that cam you will love it.

 

I've used the Ford Muscle Parts C90Z-6250-C, hydraulic version of the 271 HP solid lifter cam, and it works great.

 

Its been years since I played with sbf, but mine always ran good with split lift/dur, favoring the exhaust as they are very weak on the ex...

 

Or maybe a setup like this one......

 

Is the Lemans cam same as the "GT-40" version???.....

 

Hey Deuces looking to sell that tri power?? your not downriver are you??

 

Not mine, sorry!..
I took a picture of it at an all Ford swap meet at the Ford World HQ in Dearborn....

 

Guess I should have put this in the first post also, Heads have been opened up to 2.10 x 1.28 on the intake side and 1.60x1.20 on the exhaust, bowl blended with screw in studs and roller rockers. Pistons a forged flat tops, rods are are C3AE's that have been shot peened and magnefluxed fitting with ARP bolts and the whole assembly has been balanced. Along with the fact that i will be running a 24" or 26" tire which will put me in the 3000rpm range all day with the t10 in third at 45 to 50mph

 

I ran that cam back when it was new in the 60's. This was in a factory hipo 289. That's way too much cam for a street engine. That's a race cam by all standards. Unless you're going to build a 12-1 comp engine, it won't get out of it's own tracks at lower rpm.

 

I'd keep that 3.50 gear... With those tire diameters, you'll be at around 2200-2500 rpm at 45-50 mph...
I could be wrong....

 

That will make a really wicked little combo!I would definitely go to a 4.11 gear though...That cam is gonna want to rev like a 2 stroke dirtbike!Let us know what you end up doing!If you dont wanna run it I will buy it from you!

 

Even if it does not get out of its own way, it is absolutely the sweetest sounding cam you could ever put in a 289 sbf. Almost worth putting up with all of the possible problems just to hear it idle into a cruise in and watch the heads swivel around to hear what is making that sound.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. still have not made up my mine, getting really close to putting the motor back together so i better figure it out soon. why are so many people so two sided about this cam??? most cams they usually just flat out suck or are to big, but this one seems to have people on both sides. still have only heard from two people that have real word seat of the pants experience with it and one says run it and the other it junk! I'm more confused then ever.

 

There is no way I would run that cam on the street unless it is just a bar hopper.

It doesn't come on the cam until at least 3500RPM, it is going to need a lot of gear (4.10 or better) and it really favors 11:1+ compression.

it might Sound Cool, but you'll get blown away on the street by guys with lesser motors as you wait for that thing to come in. And low speed cruising will be more like low speed bucking and jerking

 

I ran that cam in a 1330 lb sand drag car with a 289, over 40 years ago. At idle from 30 feet away, it pulsed and sounded like it was on nitro. I agree with the others, that you will have to run at least a 4.11 gear in your heavier car, and it will not be street friendly.

 

Well, the name:

LeMans

kinda tells me exactly what type of engine activity its designed for

Variable duration lifters, or rollers with steep opening ramps, may be a crutch for a bad cam choice, but....heck, try it yourself, see if you like it Don't forget to go from press in studs to screw in, like the K codes did.

 

I ran a C3 [289/271] in my 289 [289 heads ported, stock valves, 54cc]...mellow idle but performed well overall, ran it to 7K [dumb, 6k would have been enough in hind sight]..Looking in my Muscle Parts book gives spec @ .100 so is not much good for modern comparison so we'll go by total duration...The C7 is around 12° more [than C3] in the overlap and 8° more total on Int and 6° LESS on total in the Exh with .510 lift at valve.. you'll get about .525 with roller rockers, which is still less than I have in said 289 now..I have no problem so you shouldn't either but no problem means having enough gear and GOOD tune....T5 trans [3.35-1st] and 3.5 rear gear would be minimum, T'loader 2.78-1st would be at least 4.30..Be sure you have the necessary piston to valve clearence and 100# seat and 300# full open spring pressure..I'd use it..

 

Ran that cam in a 70 Boss 302, 10.5-1, cam was straight up, balanced and printed, sodium filled exhaust valves, 427 triple springs, roller rockers, Hooker Comp + long tubes, 2.20 close ratio, 3:91 axle, miserable on the street but on the track (road courses) it was killer. Pulled it's guts out from 3200 - 8000. Loved the sound, loved the RPM but just didn't like the 1500 RPM idle. 4:11 or 4:30 would have been a better choise....

Go with the 289 HiPo cam with hydralics (unless you are into hard core road racing), much easier to live with on the street.