Ok, guys, maybe I was being too specific in my previous posts. How does one normally go about testing a volt meter before installation? Thanks! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hook it to a battery, check the reading. Now use a volt-ohmeter and check the battery voltage...they should read the same.. now install it....
LOL Thanks, guys. I'm trying to bench test it and I don't want any electrical fires. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I think he is saying use a second meter for comparison. It would be unlikely that both meters would be out of calibration to the same reading. So if they read the same ***ume they are correct. For example my instument panel volt gauge was reading a little below 12 volts (should read approx 14.2 volts) so I checked output of the alt with a hand held volt meter and read 11.4 volts. That confirmed the gauge was reading correctly. Bad alt.
That's why you are using a voltmeter. It is just another circuit. On a negative ground system, power goes in + side of gauge and - side goes to ground. That is it, unless there are separate connections for the light. Follow above directions with confidence.
I bought a new digital meter and its NOT as good as a ****og meter. If you have low battery also reads wrong. It also maybe how much you want to spend on a meter. Good old ****og meter is best for my use.
Thanks! It is info like this that tells me never to try and learn/understang electrical stuff. If you never wire your car the chances of an electrical fire are slim. Bob
Thanks, guys! Yeah, I've already had an electrical fire, so I'm bench testing everything before I bolt it in and hook a battery up to it again! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I haven't gotten too far with the project but plan to set up all the lights and related **** on a 4x8 sheet of plywood test table. Turn everything on in the back yard and let the battery die, or put out the fire. Bob
I have a fluke87 that i have used for about 30ishyears, it is digital and it'll lead you astray if you aren't used to it. I have a little dashlight pigtail with alligator clips on it and clip it onto the wires i want to test. If it lights up bright i've got voltage, if its dim i am reading thru something and if it don't come on i ain't got voltage. That way you don't get sidetracked when you see a 10.8745vdc instead of a 12.0342vdc - sometimes you just don't need to know things that have no real importance. Variations like that are very common and it is the temporary nature of connecting a voltohm meter, esp to ckts that have no load or resistance, you can get readings that'll give you pause. the old ****og meter, like a triple 't' etc are good ones, a light bulb on a pigtail is really good.
There there there kid it will be OK. The only way to catch an electrical fire is with a dead short on heavy gauge wire or not have any fuse protection on the smaller ones. Fuse protection comes in many styles, there's the norm as in blade fuses or gl*** fuses in the panel that match the size wire and loads. Separate and stand alone fuses you can put anywhere. There's fusible links in the line. Then there's circuit breakers that can be used too. There's no reason for not having fuse protection other than the operator completely ignoring the fact. Dead short happens when with faulty, inadequate, or stupid cable securing. Connections left loose, and wires left bare. Sometimes hooking stuff up backwards but that would have to get past the fuse. Just general wear over many miles can cause shorts but the fuses are there to protect that.
A voltmeter is better then a amp meter, just think having a wires that's will handle 60 amps and grounding out. In less you have a calibrated eyeball a amp meter is of no use, better use a voltmeter.
Thanks 31 Vicky, but with 24 hours someone will contradict what you just said and point out the fire starters you overlooked. Bob
Go with what 31 Vicky said... Current is like water flowing, it takes the easiest path.... Its simple yet complicated if over ****yzed....
Don't try the water flow deal, please. A 90 year old Grandmother pouring tea vs. her Grandson in the NYFD with a water cannon are two different things. Bob
I'm more than reasonably certain that I didn't, and have the normal everyday electrical stuff covered but we will see. Barring frame bending accidents that's about all there is to it.
The plan is to run conduit inside the boxed frame to run the wires, that should hold the fire in place, I think. Bob
Touch the leads to your tongue, cross your eyes and hop on one foot. Sheesh, I thought everyone knew that?
There's no need and it could make things worse & trouble shooting worse if not impossible. Out of all the cars you ever see, none of them have conduit. There's a harness in a protective sleeve, that's it. On a mud truck I once ran the rear harness thru a Hose, and the front harness thru a hose to protect the wires from mud and slop. It worked for mud but caused nothing but agri*****tion troubles.
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