Hello all, So currently, i have a 6 blade steel fan with a spacer and a shroud which works really well all year around, except for when i sit in traffic. and on 100 degree days, which are fairly often, it starts to have problems. So, i was wondering if there was a really good pusher fan out there that didn't restrict too much air from the radiator, which i could just run when the engine seemed to get too hot when i am sitting in traffic and sitting in lines at cruise nights like during hot august nights and stuff. the extra catch, i currently dont have a temp gauge that has numbers on it. Just the gauge that came in my 53 ford, which was adjusted for the 283 that is in it now before i got it. I do have a gauge that i could put in, but it seems to read just fine, so i dont want to put it in if i dont have too. My gauge shows the engine getting hotter when it sits in traffic, and it starts to run a little rough (occasionally)/doesnt idle too well and sometimes will even shut off (very rare though). Anyways, thats the issue and i appreciate the help! Luke
What is the opening temperature of your thermostat? What is your initial timing, and at what RPM? What do the plugs look like?
Thermostat opens at 154, timing is 8 degrees advanced, and i dont have a tac but i would guess it is idling at 550-600 rpm.
Just the gauge that came in my 53 ford, which was adjusted for the 283 that is in it now before i got it Hidden in the coded message but I'd say its a Sbc in there
From the pics in the album: 283 SBC. Your problem does sound like lack air flow when stopped. What radiator are you using? Is it clean inside and out? You stated the timing is at 8° BTC. Is that with or without the vac advance hooked up? It might be a timing issue.
Sorry guys i was out of town this weekend. But no i dont have the vac advanced hooked up, seemed to run better without it. But yeah it is a 283 chevy that my grandmother put in after her 2nd flat head cracked. But i have the original radiator in it with one in and one out flow ports blocked. It was rebuilt at a radiator shop that i trust very well and they put an extra core in it.
The gauge can be adjusted by adding enough resistance to drop 6 volts or adding a voltage regulator like the ones in Fords until into late 80's at least. I like the early mustang regulator the best as it hooks up easier.
One of the issues could be the fact that you're not getting a proper flow of liquid thru the whole radiator. It looks like you used the stock flathead radiator and simply blocked off one of the inputs and outputs. If that's the case, you may not be getting a cross flow thru the radiator and its not being used to its full efficiency. I did the same thing to a ford flathead radiator when I ran a 52 chrysler hemi. Similar issue as to the lack of crossflow. I'd start with some of the easier add on items first such as a puller and or a pusher fan or both. You could always use them if you decided to use a different radiator.
It is not always a overheating of the cooling system. The swill they call gas these days can provide a host of troubles when it is very hot and a carburetor is involved. Possible the gas is starting to boil out or vapor lock working it's way in.
I would hook up the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum. It worked on my 421 Pontiac. I would also replace that radiator with a triple pass 4 row Dessert Cooler. I use one in my '52 Chevy with A/C. I have a mechanical fan and shroud. The runs at 190 with the A/C on in stop and go traffic. What kind of carb do you have? An Edelbrock needs an isolation plate/spacer or the fuel will boil. Keep your fuel lines away from any heat source.
I would suggest a couple of things. First, put in a mechanical gauge. Even if only temporarily. The electric temp gauge in my '50 Merc reads high with the "runtz" voltage dropper. Second, I don't know a lot about SBC's, but if you are heating up at idle and you only have 8 degrees advance, this might be a problem. Don't Chevy's like more base timing than that? Good Luck. Billk
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