I use a 292H competion cam, new lifters & pushrods when I put the two fours on my small block chevy. Handles the gas ok. Both carbs are Edelbrock 500. Carl Hagan "Need a big cam to handle the gas." Not that big of deal to change it over.
Oh....had to go with a vacum canister too, too help with the power brakes. All nonHAMB car. Carl Hagan "I didn't even think about the canister until I realized the brakes went from good, to non-existant"
I have 2 600 Edelbrocks on my 440. I have 104 jets in the sec, and I think 100's in the primaries. Below 70 degrees it still has a lean bog when you crack it at cruising speed. I am planning on installing bigger squirters also. That should help. Its 9.5 to 1, 228-232@ .050 cam. Auto with 3.23's. Ran a best so far with street ties and a slow shifting tranny, 13.02 @ 106.5. And I can cruise the freeway no prob. Throttle response is very good and quick.
You may want to look at the springs in the power valves. If you have enough vacum and too light of a spring they may not be opening.
Bigblockdude, Your 440 is cool,,is that an old B body it is in? My 440 has a tunnel ram with two Holley 750's,,runs great! Tommy
2 BBLS is a different angle? Mine makes ur eyes water...........but only in the pits and down track a couple times. Twin 6425 Holley 2BBls. These are only good for 4000RPM and up as Holley would say...
Old post, but thought it would be helpful for those searching... I've been running Qjets on my BB Olds tunnel ram setup for about 6 months now...really like the responsiveness, and at 1500cfm total it's pretty peppy too Funny thing though, when the temp is in the 60's-70's this past spring and the humidity is up the intake has crazy condensation all over it! Thought I had a massive fuel leak the first time it happened! -QQ
hi everyone . we run a sbc , 4300 stall , trans brake with 2 step ( launch at 4000 ) . we are testing it with an edelbrock dual 4 tunnel ram . i have 2 holley 600`s on it . 4.56 gear , solid cam around .505 lift . anyways , wondering if the power valves really are a factor when the car is sitting on wide open throttle hitting on the 2 step . would the vacuum not be non prevalent anyways ? the car falls on it`s face on launch and then pulls like a madman . pulled the plugs after a pass and they look just right . i`m kinda puzzled if i`m too lean or too rich on the launch . i would appreciate any good advice , cheers
Just reading through some of these older posts and was wondering if there were any up dates on some of these projects?
KId I installed the very intake on a Iron head 289. Valves upgradeed to 1.94/1.60 ported an polished. Two 500 cfm Edlebrocks gave the engine a good throttle response. Over all two 450 would have been idea for the engine. Same engine ran perfect with a 750 holley dp.
We've done lots of tuning now, made some changes related to the fuel delivery that has helped a bunch and exposed some other problems we were having as well... Had a dead head style Holley regulator with the electric pump, fuel pressure was not staying steady under heavy load with the two carbs... Switched to a Robb Mc Performace bypass regulator with return to the tank and it's MUCH better, car runs out properly on top now. However, doing this showed me that the fuel tank sump area I made in the factory tank needs to be changed, because I can "see" the fuel pressure drop when it gets low and I stand on the throttle Not the best pic of the regulator, but you can see it in the upper corner...
Thanks guys for posting this stuff up. Im a little late to the party here but good reading! My car is a 30 Ford coupe not on the road as of yet but my hope is that it will at least get started here this month. Im in So Cal so cold weather really is not an issue. My shop is only about 5 miles from the house so the daily driver shouldn't be a problem either. I am running the Weind T/R with 2 Holley 450's as well, Just curious what fuel pressures you guys are finding works best?
C9 You are very close to being exactly right on. To run properly you have to flow enough air to keep the plenum full. That is the down side to a tunnel ram on a small displacement engine unless it breaths a ton. Someplace around here I have a formula that I have been trying to find for one of the other fellas that will ball park you on CFM requirements for the intake. it is just ball park because it is just based on plenum size and doesn't take into account flow or engine displacement. Bit it will give a starting place. Once fouind I am going to post it for everyone to pick apart. never the less if you contact the manifold manufacturer they will normally give you a suggested CFM requirement for the intake. I do it all the time when I have an intake that I am not sure of. Go with the suggested CFm for the intake then jet to suit the particular engine it is going on. The newer tunnel rams seem to have lower CFM requirements than the older ones. Back when tunnel rams were first becomming popular they were strictly a race part and the plenums were huge. Now that they have become a street engine part they have redesigned them so that they can be made to function on a street engine. There is a lot of difference between a new edelbrock street tunnel and say that old bread box that was so piopluar back in the day and so damned ornery that you kept an extra setup in the trunk for when it backfired and tore a bunch of stuff up.
I'm running 3 2bbl's on mine. ONly the center on is ON though. Outters are blocked off. Once it warms up it runs great.
Thought i would join in here. I have an old 60's era Weiand on my T-Bucket with 2 Edelbrock 600's. Everything runs great except i can't get it to lean out, the exhaust burn my eyes. Both carbs are stock and run perfectly except the rich condition. Otherwise i love the the T/R's, always have and always will.
Old thread but some good tunnel ram stuff in here so I thought I'd bring it back to life with a question: Recently installed the Weiand 2x450's setup on my 383 Stroker pump gas 11:1 cr motor. Car comes great off the launch, no stumble, four passes all around 8.2 @ 84mph. I'm happy with this given the 3200 lb weight. Problem is the car falls off to 13.20's on two QM passes and I'm only picking up an additional 3-9 mph on the big end. 1/8 conversion tables put the numbers around 12.70 @ 110 mph, so there's something failing, since the big end is where TR's are supposed to pull harder. I'm switching from a Holley mech pump to electric next week in the event it's fp related, but if anyone has any other ideas about this issue please post. Other specs: Dart Pro 1 heads 2:08/1:60 valves, hyd roller cam 5:10/5:20, Milodon gear drive, TH350/4:86 gears, 38° full. Dave
I sent in an inquiry about fuel pressure to CarCraft Tech, it was a very informative article. My problem actually turned out to be the fuel pump on the test stand but man he sure opened my eyes to some stuff. http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1206_tech_questions_and_answers_ask_anything/ it's well worth the read
I have a 327 sbc with a TR1 edelbrock tunnel ram in my 37. I run 2 390 cfm vaccum secondary holleys with electric chokes. I put a quick change spring kit in the vaccum secondaries and have it dialed in perfect. Starts great runs perfect and looks cool as shit. The only time it loads up is putin around alot but I open it up for 10 seconds and its ready to go. I also run a stock mechanical fuel pump and works just fine. Thats my 2 cents hope it helps you decide.
follow the instruction that cane with the intake&the reccomended carbs go to youtube at a30gasser see modelA start up also at a30gasser see Model A vs Henry J Eagle Field 2012 for in car gopro video how it runs when using the manifold&660 carbs per instructions .........
Subscribed. Even tho it's an old thread, I'm getting ready to dyno my tunnel ram SBC in a couple of weeks
I'm not an expert with tunnel rams but my 33 has a small block 350 with an old weiand TR, two Holley 660 center squirters. I fiddled with them and ended up square jetted with 74's. It runs great...crisp and much faster than it ran with the single 4 bbl top. This motor has a relatively big flat rapper cam, dart heads (aluminum) and about 12.5:1 domed pistons. Not really a street motor but that where I drive it. Not commuting to work but just for fun. Plugs stay clean, it seems to be fine with all that carb. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Same here.........when I put the TR1X Tunnel Ram on after using the low riser off dual with .........same 2 BBL's I picked up a lot of bottom end. It pulls the wheels much better in second gear with a 292 cu in. My buddy in ohio had same tunnel ram TR1X and indicated the same, tons of bottom end, and out ran the single 4 bbl Z28 Manifold. Got to be one of the best manifolds for small cubic inch chevys.
Lot of good info on this thread. Glad it keeps coming up. I have a tunnel ram for a small block Chevy and one for a big block Chevy. Haven't used either yet but will study through this thread when I do.
Back in the early seventies. I drove a 440-481 cube big Chevy on the street during warm days, 3200 lb. car. Weiand 3- piece tunnel ram with two 750 short bowl, double pump carbs. Borg 2.64 low trans, 4.33 gears with 29" tires. These particular carbs worked well on the street, right out of the box. I tried several other combinations, including the then popular Edelbrock t-ram with 4224, 600 cfm tunnel ram carbs.. These were the terrible center squirters that ran rich at low speeds and fouled plugs. The Weiand setup netted 12 mpg on the highway. Drive the twenty five miles to the track. Drop the exhaust, change the rear tires and run consistant 11.30's, if the track was sticky. This setup was then continued on to an early Anglia panel. Was a very reliable setup. Always started and ran well with stick trans. Or the clutch turbo trans.
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