I ordered gl*** like 2 years ago from an alliance member, before a face lift turned into full build. Finally ***embling now and have two issues. I ordered stock gl*** but 5" shorter, as that was the chop. No templates (yeah, yeah.......). Chop was done before me so its possible it was + or - .25", but my measurements compared to stock were right at 5" even. Plus since I had to chop the rear window frame myself, I know I took 5" out of it. Regardless, gl*** doesn't fit. 1. Windshield- it just fits in frame if I don't use setting tape. With setting tape I need about 3/16" shorter gl***. is that reasonable for a local gl*** shop to do, or a problem because its such a small amount? If so, what's a reasonable price? Or should I just set it with urethane (0personally don't like this option)? And if so is there a trick to getting gl*** out of lower frame without breaking gl*** (its set tight with tape now)? 2. Rear window: is too tall, and a shade too wide even without the rubber seal. with the seal there's no chance. but its also not radiused right at the corners. so can a gl*** shop trim it it do I need a whole piece? How much should I expect to pay? - Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
Guessing on gl*** size is never the proper way to order gl***,,,chopping a top can cause all kinds of miss alignment,both vertically and horizontally. Use thin plywood veneer or heavy poster board. Most of your local gl*** shops will have a wet sanding wheel and can take a little of the gl*** to fit,,if the gl*** is too small to fit in the frame your probably gong to have to cut new gl*** and chalk the other gl*** up as a lesson learned,,HRP
Hrp, appreciate the response, but I didn't guess, nor did I ask for opinions about how else I could have done it. Measured many times and places. Every measurement I took was 5". And that's was corroborated by my cutting of rear gl*** trim ring, which is dimensionally exactly same as stock except for height. I'm not stoked about spending more money, but I'm not blaming the gl*** folks either. I knew I was taking a calculated risk w/o doing templates. Plus, given the time that's p***ed and the fact the I didn't send them templates........... So, bottom line is right now I just need to get gl*** in the car, and all that I asked about. The gl*** is too big, not small. So is it reasonable to expect that sanding will suffice for something like 3/16" off windshield and two sides of rear gl***? Or is that too much? Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
did you get the sides and back in tempered or laminated? if you just got it in laminated they could probably trim, but more than likely use wet sander and shave it down that small amount.
I cut Hot Rod gl*** for years and templates for a chopped car are a must! Even stock Ford Windshield frames vary a small amount. HOTRODPRIMER is right , but if you make some templates and take your gl*** to a good shop ,they can cut and or grind it to size , but it is pretty labor intensive. Good Luck.
I worked at a gl*** shop years ago. Both those can be trimmed down. Might cost a bit, but it's doable. Shop around.
I'm no expert, all 4 pieces look like 2 pieces of gl*** sandwiched over a thin film. I ***ume that's laminated, no? 30-31 model a closed cab pickup.
I will try and make a mental note not to respond to any of your post in the future,,please excuse me for offering my insight from a experience not too dissimilar to yours!! HRP
In post #1, I made of point of saying that I didn't send in templates, so that I didn't get 10 replies suggesting templates or opinions about how I should have done it. All that I asked about and all that I care about right now is getting gl*** in the car, so I'm just trying to keep this thread on topic. It wasn't personal, so no need to take offense.
Well...the first step to YOU getting the gl*** you have NOW into the car correctly is the making of a template! All guessing, planning and fitting for something like this should be done on a template not gl***. Then you transfer the dimensions to the gl*** you have (hoping the gl*** overlaps!) and take it for cutting. OR you could simply call the gl*** guy and have him do a housecall. They do it constantly, servicing bodyshops etc...around here anyway! BTW...The info HRP offered could very easily save someone else who reads this thread from your fate.
The moral of the story is that eventually you'll always need a template. Scott needs a template now to correct the existing non fitting new gl***. Others need or may make a template to get correct fitting new gl*** the first time. Scott will spend more $ and more time doing it later rather than first. The gl*** shop who accepts the mission might beak the gl*** and how long does it take and how much should it cost to fix someone else's screw up ??? WHAT EVER THE HELL THEY WANT I suppose would be fair.
Sliding side or rear gl*** should be fine, but windshield and fixed gl*** would be a different story. UPDATE: Found a local shop that would deal with it (not an easy task; they seem like a dying breed). Rear gl***: $85 (1 hour labor charge) and they sanded it down to fit in the frame with the rubber. Windshield: $127 (~1.5 hour). They said the arch at the bottom two corners was too deep, so all they did was sand the two lower corners to lessen the arch and then the gl*** settled in enough to affix the top. Now, new question. Would sanding the gl*** have made it more susceptible to cracking? I 'm wondering because: Both pieces of gl*** cracked AFTER installation. I had the windshield set in the frame and carried it around for a week w/ no issue. Then after sanding the gl*** shop said they got it set in the frame, but over night it crack on it's own. the rear gl*** got a small crack some time AFTER I tightened down the frame (I do realize there could be plenty of other causes on this piece, but between the thick rubber seal and relative flatness of both inner and outer frames, I was surprised to see it crack).
I understand that, but I'm asking if sanding the edges can make a piece more susceptible to cracking or not. Like maybe it creates minute cracks/gouges at the edges....... sort of along the lines of why one chamfers holes/edges on various materials to prevent.
If the gl*** is sanded smoothly with a slight bevel to the edges it actually helps prevent runs (cracks). Check your frames and mouldings at the point where the cracks started, to see if there are any kinks or bends. On the rear window did the crack start at one of the screws in the garnish moulding ? (too tight). Hope this helps.
All gl*** gets sanded. Laminated, tempered, all of it. The cracking is in the install, prep or handling. There are no shortcuts on gl*** work. A review of your work is in order.
Perfect that's what I needed to know. The crack in the in the rear gl*** started where joint in the roof/window frame is from the chop, and I have no doubt that's the ultimate cause. Guess I'm learning that there's little or no forgiveness in the gl***, against it's plane. Going to leave the rear gl*** for now (small crack and bigger fish to fry), and but I'll have to check the windshield out more closely.
There was a gl*** guy in Campbell, he came to my friend's shop to do an install on friend's '32 panel truck. He began by sanding all around the 'jambs' where the gl*** would sit: (surprised me a little when he spread a thin skin of Bondo in the 'bed' for the gl*** for the rear doors) He worked for 2 days on the job...but when he installed the door gl***, (both sides) he couldn't roll the gl*** up or down. (gl*** he cut was too thick...he had to absorb the error) Simple mistakes can be made by the most sophisticated.
Direct answer to your question is, no. Sanding will not make it crack easier. It was sanded after the first guy cut it. I installed windshields on an ***embly line. 50 per hour. We set them in sealer. We broke a several a week because of small spot weld slag. You could not even see are feel them sometimes. Gl*** breaks under stress. You have to check the opening twice by feel to find the cause. The smallest high spot can make it crack. The rubber seal the old cars use helps keep the gl*** safe from these highs. Trim screws around the gl*** are snug not tight. This is just my opinion.
Update/conclusion. Not that it matters too much. There was a slight bow in the plane of the windsheild that clearly explained the crack. However, it wouldn't have occurred to me that so little could crack the gl***. Now I know. Got the windshield straightened up, but I'm still waiting for the local place to finish it. As for the original pieces, there was apparently some miscommunication when I ordered the gl***. I did send quick newspaper template of the front and rear gl*** as a reference for height. These were based on the broken ratrod house gl*** that was stuck in the frames when I got the truck. And it was my understanding from a previous conversation w/ gl*** guys that said templates would only be used to confirm height instead of just going off of my "5" inch measurement. Apparently that's where the communication breakdown was, despite my accompanying letter that front and rear gl*** should be stock except for height, and the side gl*** should be full height. They cut the gl*** entirely based on my newspaper templates. So it's a bummer, but I'm not bent out of shape about it. But I wanted to conclude this thread because the miscommunication about the templates explains why the curves of both front and rear gl*** weren't right, and means that the gl*** cutters templates for stock gl*** are probably just fine.
Not sure if this would really matter, and don't care at this point. My pics ****, but you should be able to see that only one side of the laminated gl*** was sanded; and it's pretty much like this around the entire windshield.
Having been in the gl*** industry for a lot of years I can tell you that if the shop you went to used an up right belt sander or a hand held sander DRY it can cause micro stress cracks from the heat of the belts, my company had to eat 4 huge crates of gl*** for the Emb***y Suites Hotel in Maui because the lami for that job was screwed up by the gl*** co. who dressed all the edges dry and it caused the cracks ......
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