OK, So I bought a 1954 Chevy Utility Wagon off E-Bay. So far.....it's been a great purchase with a "minimum" number of surprises. Naturally, with a lot of customization/updates having already been done, I'm dealing with trying to ID what Year, Make, Model of Vehicle donated their "parts" to my ride! Frustrating to say the least! I've attached two pictures of the rear Brake Calipers in hopes that someone can help me ID my Rear End. (no pun intended! LOL!) All I was told was that it was a "Lincoln 9"......" Lotta help that knowledge has been! Please educate me on what Year/Make/Model vehicle these may have come off of. It doesn't show in the picture, but the attaching bolts, are HUGE and they come UP through the Caliper Bracket instead of going Horizontally into the Calipers, etc..... Thanks!
They look like late 70's Granada or Mustang II... Do the rotors measure 9 1/4? The wedge style calipers always seemed to hang up slightly....
Mid to late 70's Lincoln Versailles OR Lincoln full size... Can't tell from here, would need casting numbers to be sure, picture of the complete rear end would help also. If you are missing any parts or if you have damaged parts, these can get a bit expensive to rebuild compared to adding discs to a non disc 9". They do have unique axle seals, special axle shafts etc compared to the rest of the 9" line. If this turns out to be a full size Linc rear, it's gonna be very wide! And from my experience, not very strong either
Go to rockauto.com and start selecting make/year/model and brake calipers. They have pictures you can match up to yours like this 79 VERSAILLES (seriously, that's how it's spellet... ) http://www.rockauto.com/
Yep, those are VERSAILLES calipers. Also available on the Granada/Monarch as an option, but rare. Expensive to rebuild, and you also need a special tool to move the piston back in when installing new pads due to the built-in e-brake.
Versailles is a city west of Paris, France. It is quite beautiful. You all should check it out. Versailles est une ville à l'ouest de Paris, France. Il est très beau. Vous devez tout vérifier.
Thanks for all the input; however, when I looked at the Versailles and the Granada, (on RockAuto).....none of those pictured, appeared to have BOLTS that attach at the BOTTOM. Are you suggesting that the lower "mounting base" disconnects from the upper section, and gets re-used with another "top unit"? (For lack of a better word)......maybe I'm missing the picture, but I was expecting to find a Caliper that looks exactly like my pictures, and is a "complete" package? Do I have the wrong expectations? Thanks!
Your pictures show the calipers, with the brackets attached. The lower picture shows a similarly mounted FRONT caliper, without a mounting bracket. On the caliper to the right, in your picture, you will see an allen bolt, with a large head. If you remove that, the retainer, which you will then see, has TWO half-moon cutouts, will slide to the side, along with a flat spring, like a main leaf in a suspension spring. Once that is slid out the caliper can be removed from the bracket. In the second posted picture, you can see the retainer, and that spring, in the lower right-hand side, with the allen bolt, at the upper right.
Strange, though. If my memory serves me correctly, the Versailles rear axle had caliper brackets that bolted longitudinally to the retainer for the axles. Those are either not Versailles rear caliper brackets in the picture, or they are front brackets. Shown here: Either way, late 70's Ford rear calipers.
Looks like Versailles rear calipers on front caliper brackets. Versailles rears had 4 bolts to secure it to the rear end housing, as pictured in gimpys picture above.
Did you happen to notice that the caliper brackets in the picture above yours are actually two piece? The OP has just the caliper support bracket attached to the caliper brackets and not the axle flange bracket.
Contact SSBC tech line. Someone there will confirm what they fit. Tell them you are looking for replacements.
I am su****ious that these are Versailles calipers, because of the bleeder screw placement. I believe these are Mark V which are larger. Anyway, have a look a this:
Yup. Now that I have had a chance to look at the picture on the big monitor, it looks like the outer half of a rear bracket.
ElPolacko! YOU are the BOSS man! Wow, you NAILED the Yr, Make, Model of my Calipers! If you can't tell, this has been ONE huge source of pain for the past week, and resulted in many, many hours trying to match pics on E-Bay and RockAuto, etc.... with just the ONE difference you pointed out. The location of the Bleeder Valve! When I pulled up the pics for a 1979 Lincoln Mark V, guess what? Those are EXACTLY what I have! Man, I have always boasted to my friends, other Insurance Adjusters and Body Shop ***ociates, that the HAMB is the PLACE to find answers! Thanks Again for everyone's comments. It was ALL very helpful in getting to the "right" conclusion!
Guys, I've got one.......more issue! Even after installing the new calipers, I'm still getting a Soft Pedal! What the heck is THIS stupid valve supposed to do? Besides cause me a pocket full of GRIEF?! I tried to take some good pictures to show where the M/C is mounted on the Firewall, and this "Valve" distribution point is mounted on the frame. I'm being told it's like a "Check Valve" to keep ALL fluid from escaping in the event of a m*** fluid loss to either front or rear brakes......and THEN I'm being told that this valve MIGHT need to be "depressed" at one end or the other, in order to allow pressure to be built up? I've read numerous pages on this web, regarding this type of valve but haven't found ONE "****on" that will move inward OR outward......so I don't know if that means move like 1/32 nd of an inch or 1/8" where you should actually feel it go "Click" or whatever? Any and ALL suggestions are very welcome as this is the LAST piece to my puzzle!!
Combination proportioning/metering valve. Not the source of your spongy pedal unless it's leaking. If it has been tripped due to fluid loss, it can restrict your brake lines. It should self center unless it's damaged. Checking the center electric hook up with a continuity tester should tell you if this has happened. a Simple stuff first, bleeders at the top of the calipers and such. Then on your rear calipers, they need to be adjusted to take up any slack, see the videos above.
NEW Rear Calipers are BLED and after many, many, trips of bleeding, etc......I'm at LEAST getting a HARD pedal, (where I wasn't before) but it's taking 2 1/2 Pumps to get Hard. Then as soon as you let off, it returns to needing 2 1/2 pumps and to get hard????
I didn't see anything to "adjust"? Once their bolted in place, they slide, in and out automatically, right? I didn't "unscrew" the plunger, if that's an intended "adjustment"?
Had another friend pump the pedal for me, and I could see the front "****on" on the Metering/Proportioning valve, move back and forth......without any change. Should that be moving in and out? Slightly, of course.
I am hoping that El P will weigh in, as I am having trouble remembering these particular ones. Many parking brake equipped calipers have a pad wear adjuster inside the piston, often set by cycling the lever that the cable attaches to. Your pads might be too far out.
Yep, those calipers require the parking brake be operational to adjust them. Not a typical piston if you noticed in the videos above the guy is mentioning using a tool to screw the piston back in for fresh pads. Likewise, you need to unscrew the piston to take up the slack when the piston is retracted. You should have less than 0.010" of clearance between the pads and the rotor. They should almost always drag just a tad but not enough to cause friction and heat. Same goes for the front. So many people are having trouble with the GM metric "quick take up/Low drag" calipers. Those require a special master cylinder to push the piston out to contact the rotor, then the second stage in the master cylinder creates the stopping pressure.
OK so here's the absolute craziest turn of events; another experienced friend stopped by and finished hooking up the Proportioning Valves, to the rear brakes, bled system and now we have NOTHING! Soft pedal that STAYS soft ......really at a loss! I'll try to list everything in chronological order as one action usually results in something else .......right? So, BEFORE, we hooked up the Proportioning valve, I had a soft plastic plug screwed into the front reservoir line. Finger tight, but screwed in. Once we byp***ed the old metering valve, we ran a line down to a Br*** "T" fitting and then one line to each front brake Calipers and BAM - we had a hard pedal. Now it was time to move on to modify the rear brake line fitting and attach the Proportioning Valve but before doing so, I tested the brakes again.....(stupidly probably) and the pedal got hard a few times, then went soft and back to nothing.... I poked my head under hood, saw that fluid had squirted out AROUND the plastic front plug, and wiped up my mess..... The front reservoir (going to the rear disc brakes) wasn't empty but I went ahead and filled it back up. *********** FAST FORWARD to TODAY **************** OK, because I had hernia surgery (after the front brakes) I'm forbidden to crawl around the truck for the next two weeks......so a buddy volunteered his time to ****on this puppy up! Or so he THOUGHT! He connected the Aftermarket Proportioning Valve, put fluid in reservoir, and then began bleeding the rear brakes. He screwed the valve all the way in and all the way out but said he could barely get ANY pressure at the rear calipers! WHAT NOW? Good Grief? Is it possible that my extra little pumping exercise, between getting the rear line installed, created an air lock in the Master Cylinder? Or could MC be bad or what? All Suggestions are totally welcome as my next line of Attack will be to remove MC, bench bleed the ****er again or return it to parts store, etc....??????? Thanks!
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