Projects 52 Dodge B3B Hemi Project

Sorry I guess it was a dumb comment. I was wondering how you plan on mounting the front clip (nose and fenders) to the frame. I am having some trouble getting my hood and fenders to line up and all of my mounts are stock. The gaps on my fenders to the doors are terrible, you could just about throw a cat through them!

 

First to answer your question; I intend to use the radiator mount which serves to mount/locate the hood and fenders.

To your problem; it is the cab that is your problem. It is not mounted in the right place. I had the same problem initially. What I "think" is that the factory loosely mounted the cab, then mounted everything else, then adjusted the cab to close the gaps on the fenders (hood would mount last). Before I removed the front clip (and after ***embling the truck the first time), I had a nice gap on the p***enger side but the drivers side was horrid.

 

I measured the distances from the cab to the radiator support before I cut everything off, so I intend to use the stock mount or fab a newer one in the same location. I stated, the fenders and grille connect to that. I supposed I could mount it based on the cab to close the gaps but that would be a ****py fix I think. I have to get the engine/trans is before I worry about the fenders and such, that is going to be a real challenge. I now know why not many people have attempted it before.

 

I'm continuing to watch to see how this turns out. But I am beginning to think twice about doing this to mine. As much as I would like to have the IFS of the Dakota with the rack and pinion steering and disc brakes, it does seem like a huge amount of work. Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming.
Steve-

 

To be very honest, it really isn't as much work as it appears to be, at least to get the IFS in there. In fact it was easier than I thought it would be. The Dakota front clip is a very good fit for this truck. Now, in saying all of that, it remains to be seen how the rest will come together and what problems I will have to deal with. I am slightly concerned about the exhaust, connection of the steering and the ability to install/remove a starter. The nice thing is the huge amount of vertical space under the hoods of these trucks. Mounting the engine high is obviously not optimum, but it may be necessary to a degree in order to get it in a workable position. Of course this then leads to drive line angle issues etc but I believe it is all workable. Nothing is impossible with a plasma and MIG...

Going down this road is not for the faint of heart to be sure, nor is it something that someone with a socket set and hammer alone should attempt. However, people have been doing things like this for many years. There are tons of Chebbies and Furds running around with new clips, SBC and SBF drive trains. Its all about concessions and what you are willing to accept verses what you want, what your skill level, and how much money you have to spend. On a difficulty scale where 1 is changing spark plugs and 10 is ground up build, I would say this falls into about 4. Like all things, everyone has to decide if the end result justifies the amount of work. If it was easy, everyone would do it

 

Ain't that the truth!!

 

Time fire up the plasma.. we will see if I can get that engine/trans somewhat located...

 

Time to fire up the plasma, lets see if I cant get that engine in there.

 

x 2 !!

 

The fit (interference?) between (a****?) newly installed crossmember, pan, engine mounts, starter, firewall, exhaust, oil filter (addressed!) is a large gorilla indeed.

Everything being a 'compromise', I think the ability to 'tango' is the key...("If you make a mistake, just tango on..." -Lt. Col. Frank Slade)

Seriously, though...GREAT project here, sooo many hurdles overcome concurrently...You are a great engineer. I liked the outboard mounting of rear leaves. (if the rear has room to come down a little more, could the slider boxes be positioned above the bumper brackets' slots? Considering the addition of extra leaves if 'too low')

 

Appreciate the comments. Tonight I and a friend managed to get the engine/trans positioned and after some t******* of the firewall I think it is all going to work out well. It is a little snug but near as bad as I initially thought. All in all it looks awesome in there. I will post some pics in a few.

 

Ok, so here are some pics. these were taken before I was able to get some room underneath by removing a unnecessary bolt in cross member. I will be fabricating a new one to mount the trans to.

 

Here are few more. Looks at home there.

 

Looks like it will fit without too much trouble. Nice!

 

it does fit pretty well, it is just making everything else work. I was thinking of using a column mounted shifter, however after looking at it, there isn't really room so I will be using a floor mounted one (Lokar). The steering is one of the larger issues as is the exhaust.

 

Steering has been my biggest issue with putting a 360 in my 55. Looks great though, keep up the good work!

 

thanks. what type of suspension are running and what are your problems?

 

Im using the stock front axle with an axle over springs drop. And for steering, Im taking the hard road with a rack and pinion mounted to the back of the axle. My problems are that there is minimal room to allow the steering shaft linkage, the starter, and the exhaust all in the same area. Im going to try to do the steering linkage first, then the exhaust.

 

I can relate for sure. I will say that you need to do them all simultaneously if possible because they are interconnected. You have to know what is going to affect effect everything else.

 

Yep it takes a lot of careful planning that's for sure.

 

I will say that you have an interesting project; R&P steering on an original suspension.

 

can you rotate the R&P up and then use some U joints to aim the shaft past your exhaust and starter?

 

I may have found an answer for my exhaust, I ordered some Sanderson headers. They look like they will work but we will see. They weren't real cheap (but what is today). They block hugger style and I know they are not real good for low end and performance but this isn't really a race truck so if they will fit it should be ok.

 

If that works, then I am on to the steering. I have a plan but it has occurred to me that if I rotate the RP up, I could actually use some joints to configure a system. But I may not have to depending.

 

Over the last couple of days I have been busy buying parts such as a steering column, shifter, motor mounts, etc. I decided to go with a Lokar floor mounted shifter because space was/is at a premium.

 

My problem is that if i rotate the rack up, then it points right at the starter... So we will see. I like the headers, but I think I can do it with some tight mandrel bends and a lot of welding

 

maybe some double U joints would work.

I agree that I could make the headers, however by my estimation it will cost me as much if not more to build them myself, not to mention the cost in time. I think that these headers might need some "tweaking", but if it saves me some time then it is worth it.

 

Oh yeah, theres going to be a couple u joints for sure. And I meant mandrel bends for the the exhaust itself after the manifolds, not for headers. Maybe down the road though.

 

got it. Are you going for a performance vibe on your truck or just a driver or perhaps a combo there of.

 

Sort of a combo. I'm going for the styling of old and some new performance touches. But the most important thing for me is keeping it relatively low cost.