So, I'm 1/2 way through the install of my No Limit Engineering Mustang II kit on my 53 Chevy Hard Top. I've noticed a few things that worry me so I figured I'd post some pics here so that all the MII suspension gurus can chime in and help me out. I just want to be clear that I'm not bashing No Limit in any way. The owner Rob does really great work and has been really great to deal with. I initially purchased his kit because I preferred the way his upper control arms were mounted. However, I wasn't expecting to have to keep fabricating/adjusting the kit so that it came together properly. I figured everything was already laid out to specs and it would be an easy install. He ***ured me that everything looks fine so I decided to post this thread and have everyone double check my work. I don't want to go through all the trouble of welding this whole thing together only to have to tear it apart if it doesn't work. Any info is appreciated. In this pic you can see the upper and lower control arms are at opposing angles. I was told by No Limit that this is fine and will help with stopping. Here you can see the lower control arm center line a bit more forward then the upper. The lower bag mount also needs to be "custom fab'd" so that it will bolt right in. Here you can see it is far off from center. I was told this is normal since the upper/lower arms are offset from each other to help with better handling. [/URL]
The angle of the upper control arm is for anti-dive and looks correct. The angle of the spindle is for caster and also looks correct. I can't comment on the bag mount.
Thanks for the reply. I'm not too worried about the lower bag mount since I have something figured out for that. My main concern is the suspension geometry. If it looks fine to you guys then I'll keep moving forward. Thanks
I will second what KevKo said, the geometry looks correct. However, the fillet weld below the upper arm in the 1st pic looks suspect. Not enough heat and too fast of travel perhaps??? Then again, it could just be the pic.
I will second what FrozenMerc says welding not hot enough and moving too fast. Burn it in. Weldingtipsandtricks.com will help. Good luck.
Consider adding a support from the rear of the lower A arm to the frame. The others beat me to it; but X3 on the welding.
In regards to the welding I did have my mig at the wrong settings. Shame on me for ***uming it was 3/8" steel instead of 1/4". Should I grind the welds down and do another p***?
im not a pro welder but I would think the initial p*** needs to be burned in properly or anything on top of it is just cosmetic.
The geometry looks good, but those welds not so good. Needs to be ground back and welded with more heat. Remember the whole front end will fall off if the welds let go. Maybe time to call in a mobile welder.
alright....alright...I'll call my buddy to weld this up properly for me. Time to bust out the grinder. =(
I weld all my stuff with my trusty Lincoln 225 and 6013 rods for the most part. Run it up to 140 amps and hold the rod in tight, makes for a nice weld. Bob
Your geometry looks better than most M11 i have seen. It look to have deceant anti dive. I recomend you do add a brace to the upper A-arm mount plate. The lower Back A-arm tube mount looks well built so you probally will not have to add a brace but it could not hurt to add one. Also since you have bags check your ball joint angle's at full collapsed and full lifted to make sure you are not even close to over pivoting your ball joint's as that style of ball joint has a fairly small pivot area. If you over pivot your ball joints bad things will happen. The Erickson's / Extreme Kustoms 951 678-3520
So, Rob from No Limit was kind enough to stop by my place and inspect the kit. He said everything looks great. The only thing that needed some tweaking were the lower bag mounts, which he said he would fabricate me new plates so that everything fit perfectly. I didn't expect him to go out of his way to do all this so I was very impressed with the level of service! Also, he said my welds on the top plates don't matter because they're just cosmetic pieces. I'm still going to grind them down and rework them since I got such a hard time here about them. LOL. I'm using a Millermatic 211 and have just recently installed 220v in my garage, so I'm excited to do another p*** but at a higher heat level this time.
x4 or 5 or whatever it is on the welding. Get a pro to do, not a backyard welder. Too many guys think they can weld mig, truth be told it's a very deceiving process and understanding the puddle is imperative to attaining good penetration. Just welding hot does not ensure you won't get lack of fusion OR make it look any better, stay on the leading edge. Mig short circuits, that's where the sparks come from because it dead shorts, if you aren't on the front of the puddle and if it's cold enough you can essentially just start welding on top of the puddle and the end result is no fusion. By no way shape or form am I saying you are uncapable but cosmetic or not, it should ALL be welded properly
Nope. I normally don't come right out and bad mouth anyone's welds so take this as consructive criticism please. I am seeing lots of pin holes etc. If it were mine I would gouge those welds out and do them again.
I also would say the welds are a little sketchy, but I too think the geometry is pretty good. That is very stand up of him to come inspect your work and ***ure you that it is installed correctly. Thats just good business and customer service. From the welding stand point you will be much happier with 220V just get some s**** and practice, practice, practice or maybe enroll in a short term welding cl***? Its well worth it.
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