•••BUILD THREAD: SUGAR CITY SPL 1933 Ford Comp Coupe ROAD To ROG•••

I'm not going to lie. This is the most boring batch of update pics ever. Basically what you're going to see is the parts being refinished and no hard core fab work or even shots of things together. It's at a stage where things have been taken apart, prepped, painted and are awaiting the frame to be finished before being reassembled.

These are the things that are slowing my "progress" up but are also the things that need to be done. Another thing that is taking time (and causing me to give these lame excuses) is gathering the parts that I need so everything is in order to assemble.

One thing I forgot to mention was how we welded up the trans saddle's holes because they were torched out. I ground the welds down and then added a few more welds where metal needed to be added etc. Then I etch primed it and fastened it to the inner frame by way of grade 8 bolts. I did this because I wanted to be able to get in there again if I feel like the frame needs to be blasted after all that saltwater (assuming it runs but ROG). So it's in the frame and ready for the yoke to be bolted up however I have to finish the frame and paint it before I start bolting suspension back together.

Another thing I did was swap out the wishbone. I was borrowing one from a friend until mine came in from my friend Jordan. He also sent a really really clean Model T spring that I'll be using so many thanks to him!

Here are some pics I took tonight. It was getting dark so bare with me. Nothing exciting like a shot of the stance. In fact it's actually further from being assembled then previous batches of images I think!





Spindles aren't painted because I figure I am going to drop the steering arms anyways so I didn't want to put the time into just having to redo them. I'll drop those soon and then I can paint the hubs and spindles at the same time....


The spring is ready as well. Using a Model A spring along with 32-34 perch bolts. We made bushings to adapt the two due to difference size.


One thing I'm not all that happy with is the spring liner I got. The lip is going to make it look like shit so I'm not sure what to do there. I might cut the front lip off and just leave the back so it doesn't move around.


Here's a shot of the passenger side rear frame rail which are notorious for getting dirt buildup and needing some attention. I cut out a portion so I could properly get behind it and made a pattern out of a diaper box to transfer over to steel later this week.


Because I cut that section out, the steel wanted to spring a bit so I used a few c clamps to keep it in line until that patch can be tacked in.



Ended up scoring a really really nice set of 33/34 pedals from HOTRODWILLIE here on the hamb. He was nice enough to trade me a stromberg for it so I didn't even have to shell out cash. These things are a scuff, shoot and install type part. Really thankful for them.

 

Ya know what I can't stand? Cleaning up old greasy parts....but it's part of the charm of working on old cars right? I'm almost done blasting this first hub and have the other to go.



Here's a shot of the Trans Saddle in. This really had to me wrestled into shape since it wasn't original to the frame. 80 years of two cars moving in different ways will do that.



Steering box needs an 1/8" shim to center it in the dash inside the car but is really nice and ready to go.
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Pitman arm is going to get smoothed out I think...


I love this. I order shackles from MAC's which is a RESTORATION place and they give me some with Nylocs. Sigh.... I'm getting different ones so if anyone needs these I'll sell them!


I didn't realize I was without a Yoke Cap so I went and visited a friend who had one. It's a little pitted but will work. Doesn anybody make this piece?


My buddy (and recent rape victim) Chris Swenson sent a pedal assembly for my to cut down and make use of. That was awfully nice of him...




Also got a damn nice '34 driveshaft from a fellow HAMB member for inside the '35 TT. Will need to shorten this an inch or so...



Now here's some color for those of you getting bored of all the B/W images. I got a sample of the color I want to use for THIS version of the car. It's a dead match (using original WWII cans for color match and sheen) for a color developed in 1941 called Lusterless Blue Drab. It was developed to avoid arial and ground photography when it was used to paint ID numbers on military vehicle bodies. It's kinda like a Grey blue but plays tricks on you for a while before you settle on it's color.


Now the sample I got was a Synthetic Enamel so it's not really suited to paint a whole car. So I plan on prepping a panel and shooting it so that I can take it to the paint shop and having them make an appropriate paint of this color with a little more shine. That'll be the body and frame color.




Last one until I weld that frame up and have some real progress pics to show....

 

What a boring set of pics.

Killer parts homie!

 

Go Go Go!!

Also note that was my 1933'rd post!

 

I did have maroon in my head for the last few months however this shade of blue has been in the running for even longer. It'll be on the grey side of things and doesn't even come close to comparing with Your powder blue or Nicks medium blue. And everyone that Sedans aren't real hot rods so don't be concerned what Nick and I are doing.




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Further more, calling dibs is one thing D-Russ but a 15 year lease on a color (which is seemingly what it's taking you to do your car) is another. Hahaha!!!

Honestly though, I think if you seen the color in person you'd see it's a weird color. It's meant to disappear into olive drab at 75 feet or more. I even had spray a streak of Etch primer across to make sure it wasn't on the green side.


Who know's if I'll actually use this color for the final version. I really kinda see this lighter ice grey blue perhaps...
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Always looking for an excuse to practice.....plus there's no room in there to get a decent wide shot. I think the next few weeks will prove to show more "progress" or at least stuff that you guys can see.

 

WOW a conflagration! It sounds serious !

 

Ya know you're right. I spent all my time staring at your faux drum brakes I guess I never really noticed that it's not technically a sedan.....I mean at least it has only two doors I guess right?!

Yeah it took me a 3 years to build the '35. That whole pesky having two kids in those 3 years really slowed the process down of slapping all that auto zone extras on that car. I didn't even have time to bolt on an APC spoiler.

 

I love Dave Russ, he's always up for some good banter.

Now back to the 33 damn it. I've only got 3 months....which is almost laughable!!! Furthermore, I plan on having it at the Revival in Baltimore so that's one less week I have.

Plan is to have most of the suspension done by next weekend. Then paint on frame and a roller by July 15th.

 

I hate ......I repeat I HATE Chris SWENSON!!!! But I love his mom Becky!


How about a quick look back to where the car was almost exactly 3 years ago....

 

I can picture 2 Banty Roosters in a ring = all in fun is good sport.....

 

I am glad that the pedals are going to work out for you. The Stromberg nice it going in my storage box w/ its friends. Hope to see you at Heavy Rebel. Peace

 

http://www.piratejack.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=11:typical-brake-system-configurations&catid=12:tech-support&Itemid=18 Brake set ups , You will be at this point soon ,so it's back to the basics ,

 

Where are you getting your new shackles from? I think those style with the zerks on them look really smart.

 

You'll be hating me even more when I drive out in my 34 to take your place on the sand. Mel and I already have all the details worked out. I'll tell you what though, for being such a good sport, we'll let you be flag girl for that run

 

The place where I've been able to find those with the zerk fitting is on eBay actually. They made off shores which sucks but seem to be pretty good quality. $17.95 a pair.

 

Just don't hate me when I take YOUR place. Your wife Jamie and I have all those details worked out She thinks the fact that you shave your legs and French kiss your brother is gross. Can't blame her.

 

Jeffrey...
Don't your shackles have the square shoulder on the stud? I used the same shackles on my 5W (bought from Macs). They, too came with the nylon nuts but I used castle nuts & drilled the studs for a cotter pin. Looks original...
Sam

 

I did the same thing. Just check the threads on the stud before pressing them in. The threads decreased in diameter as they went in towards the bushing on the set I got from Macs.

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The ones I got from Mac's that look exactly like yours did not last 2 months. The rubber let go and the main leaf was riding on the axle. Super displeased. I put in a model A main leaf and street rod shackles. I replaced the plastic crap with oil-lite bronze bushings. No problems since. You could turn them so the nuts were forward and paint them.

 

I use NOS ones that I have access to a box full of. They are probably only good for 50 years or so

 

I ordered a set of Model "A" Shackles like the front today. I like the look and they are 2-1/4" wide with a 3/4" eye like the 35's so they work with the rear radius rods. The plan is to machine up two bushings that have an 1/8" shoulder on each side to take up the slack on the Model T spring which is a 2". That should do the trick and keep the look consistent front to back.

 

So my wheels should be ready by this weekend so I should have some tires mounted Saturday which is a good thing. That'll be the kick in the ass I need to get the frame back together and finished up.

I gotta go talk to a paint specialist about transferring the color I chose to a 2k type paint.

 

Looking good JJ, really like the Thickstun setup in the background.

 

Yeah I might need to make arrangements to keep that.

 

Bill, I'm pretty sure Race City Rodz was referring to the Thickstun in the background of this picture...

 

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