In working on the 49 Chevy, I've searched and read the other posts on sbc vs 235, stick vs auto, etc. And since I'm looking for as close to bolt in as I can get, I've decided to do 235 with an s-10 t-5, and new driveshaft, rear end and springs. I'm going to stay with the stock front suspension and do as much bolt in/drop in as possible. Like I said I've read all of the posts and my mind gets more confused with every one I read. What I need to know is what to look for exactly when searching the ads, junkyards, swap meets, HAMB classifieds etc. 1. Engine--I'm staying with the 235 because it is a drop in/bolt up modification. 2. Clutch--I know there are adapters for mating the trans to the 235, but do I stay with the stock clutch or do I need a different one? And if I need something different, what do I need? 3. Transmission--What years/models do I need? Is there numbers or other distinquishing parts that I should look for? I know some of them have the shifter set forward so it will clear the bench seat...how do I know what to look for when I'm looking at one? 4. Drive shaft--I'm probably just going to have one made unless someone has a better idea. 5. Rear end--Again I'm looking for as close to slide it under and bolt it up as possible. What do I need to find? Somewhere I read that a 70's nova would work...what others will do the trick? 6. Rear springs--I know I have to do some modifiction to spring mounts but what donor springs will be as close to bolt up as possible? 7. Whatever else I'm missing. If you would rather send the information via email-- usmile4@aol.com And if there is someone who just happens to have this setup taking space in their garage because they have swaped it out of their project, let me know and I will drive over and we can put it into my 49 and get it out of your garage.
using an '83 to '87 T5 from behind a 2wd with 2.8 engine (s10, s15, Blazer, Jimmy) will get you the forward mounted shifter, and cable speedo drive. Also the removeable bellhousing. I'm looking for one also.
Go to http://www.inliners.org/ > tech tips > T5 page and print the handy reference chart when you are ready to go find that T5. It lists ratios and serial numbers. Then go to http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/t5tranny.htm for a write-up on HOW to make it work.
I've been to both of those pages, but most info talks about putting it in a truck. I want to put it in my 49 styleline car so I don't know which ratios are best for that application. Also how do I check the ratios on a donor in a junk yard?
I've had some of the same questions. If you search through, the last post where I asked about it Fat Hack put up a little drawing showing how to modify the stock rear springs to run a Nova or Camaro rear with them. A lot of rearends can be made to fit with some minor alteration (relocating the pin holes), so it's a matter of what you can find and what you prefer. Some options: 55-57 Olds, Pontiac, Chevy (55-56 Pont and Olds are on the weak side but probably ok with a 235), 70-81 Camaro, 75-79 Nova, S10 4x4. Also some Ford 9" and some other 1960's GM rears will fit, but are pretty tough to find around here. I'm leaning towards a 75-79 Camaro or Nova simply because I have a good chance of getting one in a U-pull-it that the brakes may even be useable on yet and have a decent ratio in it. The stock springs are made for a torque tube rear, not to take the torque of an open drive. Since we're not talking a big V8, you may be okay to get going down the road. Walton Fabrications and some other folks do sell bolt-in kits to change the rear springs (around $500) with everything you need. I'm still wondering what you need to do to mount the T5 at the rear, but someone else here is mailing me an article he wrote up on the conversion that may have answers. The same post I referred to, some folks put up links, which I think you have. The way I understand it you just need to change the clutch disc, and there are a couple of options depending on what size clutch you're running. But the part numbers were posted there. The 235 is the same in cars and trucks, and you need the same bellhousings either way - 48-59 truck or 55-62 car has the right pattern. My dumb question is will a stock '50 trans fit a '55-'62 bellhousing? I'm trying to figure out which one is in my car with a '56 motor.
Nope.....but a '50 bellhousing will fit a 56 motor... Smily, pm me your address and I'll send you the "book" that answers every question you posted... BTW, got a call the other day from a tech editor at LOWRIDER...seems they got hold of one of my booklets and are planning a tech article around it.. I wonder if they would send one of those cover girls over to the shop to lean over the fender Good thing I put the visor and skirts back on the car! Brian
Are you refering to your post called "49-52 Chevy to open drive - anyone interested in a tech how I did it post?" How can I tell the ratio when I'm in the U-Pull-it yard? What prices would be good for the tranny & rear end either from a U-Pull-It or classified?
Wow-everyone is doing my posting for me (course I'm doing my 235/t-5 in a '62 Imp) post away ya'll-we'll have an 'angry hornet'(as I've heard an inline split manifold described) mafia in no time
All you can do in a junkyard is pull the cover and count the teeth, or mark the shaft/yoke with white paint and one spot on each wheel/drum/axle and see how many times around you get for one rotation of the wheels. I would be tempted to mark it on the quarters so you can tell closer 3.08 to 3.23 to 3.55. Won't be exact but will give you a good idea. A 3.08 will be a little more than three turns, a 3.23 will be about 3 and a quarter, a 3.55 about 3 and a half turns, and so on. From what I've been able to gather about the tallest (numerically lower) gear you want with a 235 is a 3.23 or so. You need something low enough the car can still make it up and down hills and so forth with the torque a 235 puts out. Just to give an idea my Surburban has a 2.73 and even with a 350 it doesn't exactly accelerate quickly (although in theory it should top out around 150 mph). Any kind of hill it kicks down to 4th.. at least it's a posi.
usmile4: I'm gonna save you a buch of headache!!!! Here goes, get a trans. adapter from BUFFALO ENTERPRISES 360-652-7684 and you can install that 5 speed directly to your existing torque tube bell housing. All you will need to change is the clutch DISC! THAT"S ALL - Been there done that. It works unbelievably well. You will need to lose your existing E-brake. I went with a floor mounted Lokar. You will need a different trans X-member - I went with a WALTONS and modified where it attaches to the frame. Rear springs from POSIES will bolt into the stock spring hangers and get you 2" lower without blocks and will center any housing with the perches drilled in the center. I am using a 55-57 chevy w/3:55 gearing. I can keep up with any new car in the fast lane. But I have a 261 6cyl. with a bunch of goodies on it. Have fun!
That adapter works with the 49-54 bell with smaller bolt pattern? Thought you just needed a spacer with the later bell -
Hey snegrah, I'm posting for my dad (usmile4). We knew that the 235 was a direct bolt in, is the 261 as well?
from what i've read, your trans crossmember is not removeable, right? the swap into a 53 will be different there, but for a mount i just welded a piece of angle iron behind the crossmember and used a 2wd s10 tranny mount, and a grinder to clearance everything. http://www.geocities.com/david_fruits/image/dcp_1549.jpg shifter location is perfect! http://www.geocities.com/david_fruits/image/dcp_1548.jpg
as for a driveshaft, i heard a 70's monte,cutlass, etc is right, but i got a complete new one for 200 from inland truck with a warranty. stock s10 clutch for 9", jeep 1980-1983 for a 10". use the 53 type throwout, same as a later v8 larger of the two common chevys.
Try to find a 6 cyl S10. The T5s in the 4s were geared a bit lower GENERALLY. Though some of the 6s were geared low too. no guarantee on the trans ratio just because of the motor. There should be a metal tag under one of the tailhousing bolts with a number on it. That will tell you the ratios in the box. For a list of #s/ratios look here: http://www.flatheadv8.org/t5-swap.htm if the tag is gone check the front of the top cover, there should be a sticker with the # there as well. and if you're going to rebuild it get a kit from hanlon, www.hanlonmotorsports.com. super nice folks and its a nice kit unlike the POS from national drivetrain.
Thanks for the info guys. It may come in handy for my newest project, the "Blue Beast" '51-'55 Chevy pickup. pigpen
That's the bauty of this spacer. It takes into account the smaller bolt pattern and the longer input shaft of the 5-speed. Just get a clutch disc that matches the input shaft of the trans and is the same diameter of the pressure plate and you're in business! It IS that easy!
Yep, can't tell the difference! Everything bolts up. Try and get a full pressure from 58-62....if you can find on.
What R Pics? Yeah, when I figure out how to do it I will...I promise. Hey, you're in Canada????? There's supposed to be a bunch of 261's up there??!?!?!?!?!??!
Yes! Plenty of 261's from late '50's Pontiacs (US models had a V8). I'm building one (1957) for my '53 shop truck: - Dual intake, split exhaust, etc... Maybe 3.55 gears in original diff...
When I first posted this I figured I might get a few replies, but this is great...for a guy like me trying to learn something new and keeping my costs down you guys are really giving me great info. Now in keeping with my original post, I thought the 235 would be the easiest way to go in terms of swapping for a person with very limited experience. Now I'm beginning to question what I want to do. I still want the 5 speed and open driveline, but should I opt for a more powerful engine than the 235? I really don't think I am up to lots of fabrication etc, so I'm looking for the easiest drop in possible. Thanks again for the help. Bill
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