Hi all. I have been dealing with a leaking rack and pinion on my C10 for a while now. I actually took the truck to a shop a year ago with the same problem and they were supposed to have replaced the rack and pinion. They said the problem was because the dipshit who built the truck for me never boxed or reinforced the frame and the frame was folding in on itself and it was allowing the frame to rest on the steering shaft. I've since had the frame boxed and notched to prevent the issue. Just recently the rack and pinion started leaking again. I'm pissed. I took the wheels off the truck and crawled in there and I can see where the fluid is coming from... right where the steering shaft meets the pinion. Can I repair this seal or do I have to replace the whole rack and pinion? The steering is off a C4. Thanks
The seal is likely serviceable, as Unkl Ian pointed out. The key will be to determine why it is leaking. If the seal failed, a new seal will correct it. If the shaft has worn the bushings or housing that keeps it tight, then a new seal will only serve to fix it for a short time. If the leak is due to a loose shaft, you will have to disassemble the rack more to determine if that is repairable.
Try grabbing the input shaft and rock it back and forth to see how much play is there. I don't think there should be any you can feel.
Well I'm wondering how difficult it is to replace the arc and pinion with a new one? is this just unbolt and install the new one? or is it a really technical pain in the ass? Thanks
Here's how to redo a pump, http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16638/ Here's how to redo a R&P, http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_1106_c4_rack_and_pinion_rebuild/viewall.html
I've been fooled by picture view angles before; but the last pic....it looks like the U-joint is hitting on itself, going by what looks like wear at the edge of the yoke. Then looking through that joint, it amost looks like the back side is where it hits on itself when turning. if that is really hitting, it could be stressing the input shaft on the rack, then causing quick wear and leaks. but it could be just the pic angle.
I'm not 100% sure that I understand exactly what you mean but if you look on the 3rd photo where we had the frame notched to ensure that the steering shaft wouldn't hit on the frame. When the frame was folding in it was resting on the shaft. I think by boxing the frame we have reinforced it enough to prevent any more flex. When I took the wheels off the other day I was able to turn the hubs back and forth and it moved freely with no rubbing. I'm sure when all the weight was on the shaft it at least screwed the seal....possibly more. My initial question was can I just replace that bearing and seal or do I have to pull the whole damn thing off and rebuild it? If replacing it is a matter of unbolting it and installing a new one I may just go that route.
The seal is likely replaceable. Now, if it can be replaced without pulling the rack off the car is a different question. Once the steering shaft is removed from the rack, is there enough room to remove the old seal and reinstall the new one? Looks pretty congested in that area to me. Gene
What's an exchange R&P worth? Either way you need to remove the R&P to swap over or rebuild. Only a U-bolt clamp and bolt hold it to the cross-member along with 2 x tie rods ends, a pressure and return fluid line and a universal joint which doesn't look like it's binding to me. Looks like you require an arbor press to replace the bearing so R&P needs to come out as it can't be done in-situ.
The seal is replaceable,...However, as someone pointed out, if there is any wear in the cylinder, then the new seal will leak in short order. We learned that, (the hard way) when a customer came back twice. That's the reason that most shops will only replace the entire unit. It saves on the headache factor. 4TTRUK
Replacing the rack and pinion is just a matter of draining the steering fluid and unbolting the R and P and bolting in a new one correct? and bleeding the system of course.. Yes?
The Jalopy Journal
