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Hot Rods my first hot rod...according to "H.A.M.B"......'30 ford coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 2345.coupe, Jun 29, 2013.

  1. always wanted one, so I'm trying my hand at building one. I don't do perfect...well, only when I ****-up, I do that pretty perfectly.....I started this awhile back, went way too fast,so now I'm repairing my mistakes. I scored some decent quarters, and a rear window section. I've swapped out the quarters and rear window. I'm pretty psyched, I finally got the rear of the coupe to it's proper "limits".
    And yes, I'm also building a '30 sedan.....and yes, I'm obsessive compulsive , A.D.H.D and have A.D.D.
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    Markmonty likes this.
  2. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    Looking like it will turn out fine. There is a lot of stress in the region below the fifth windows, where the large and small 'reveal's join together. Make a sound joint there.
    If you put a couple of vertical corner 'posts' and one diagonal between them, at the rear of the cab roof- down to the floor, she won't crack or deform from road use. 100k mi on mine without it acting up in the region above.
     
  3. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 34,105

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

  4. Wildbill29tudor
    Joined: Apr 16, 2013
    Posts: 460

    Wildbill29tudor
    Member

    Love to see where this goes, I love build threads... So what are your plans? And if u don't mind me asking would you be interested in selling what was left of your original qtrs or donor qtrs?
     
  5. Well good for you. I guess ADHD can come in handy if you want to get a project finished in a short time frame.
     
  6. isn't it great that a defect can be an ***et.....

    thanks man......my quarters are not that great. I had to cut out the "drip edge", the piece that hold the deck lid in place. my rear window is pretty warped. I'm keeping them for 'patch "work anyway. If you check the HAMB and Ford Barn cl***ified section frequently you will find everything you'll need. That's how I found mine.
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    thanks man

    thanks for the compliment and advice...I need advice, advice with visual aids are great for me...pics are worth a thousand words for me...
     
  7. so here's my "foundation''....it took me some time but I finally found the "numbers" on the frame rail. That's important to me because now I'm not worried about registering the rod.
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    so here's my "luxury problems"...which motor, which ******....bronco 9" or maverick 8"........
    289, c-4, or 4sp top loader....350, th350, or 4sp saginaw... 351w, c-4 or 4sp top loader......
    my preference "today" is the 289 which is a 1966 motor, the 4sp top loader, I'm not sure about the V ''slap'' shifter yet, and the bronco 9"......
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  8. mickeyc
    Joined: Jul 8, 2008
    Posts: 1,441

    mickeyc
    Member

    Hello I see in your 3rd. photo that you have braced your body with tubing. This is a proper procedure to maintain correct dimensions.
    However, I also notice you are lifting the body by the installed bracing.
    If the bracing is not very rigid the lifting may cause distortion of the body dimensions. Not being critical, just pointing this out. Even a little
    movement of the body could cause you problems as the ***embly continues.
     
  9. oldsman41
    Joined: Jun 25, 2010
    Posts: 1,556

    oldsman41
    Member

    nice start. mickeyc is right watch the stress on the body it will give you fits in the end if it wrenches.
     
  10. point taken...thanks....

    thanks......so what's the best way to pick up the body and move it around so I don't stress her......
     
  11. mickeyc
    Joined: Jul 8, 2008
    Posts: 1,441

    mickeyc
    Member

    The method you are using is fine. I am a structural Iron Worker. I don't claim to be an engineer, but I do have a trained eye for structural shapes and their integrity. Frankly your tubing lay out does not appear to be very rigid. If it is rigid enough to not flex when it sees the forces from the vertical lift it is good. If not It will change its shape in response to the force applied. Remember triangles are the easiest and one of the strongest shapes in structures.
     
  12. donnie
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 191

    donnie
    Member
    from NC

    so here's my "luxury problems"...which motor, which ******....bronco 9" or maverick 8"........
    289, c-4, or 4sp top loader.

    I say go with the 289 and the 4 Speed.
    I will be watching this one come together.
     
  13. xwing01
    Joined: Jun 26, 2013
    Posts: 428

    xwing01
    Member

    I wondered the same thing... I have 2 engine hoists but no lift and I've been trying to figure out how to get the body off the frame when the time comes??? This to me looks like the best option yet. I've seen guys build wood supports running under the roofline to hold up the body and they drop the frame out from underneath... Wondering what the best route for a guy building in his at home garage would be???
     
  14. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    SBF is 60's so NO white walls. SBC is 50's

    Working a clutch in a chopped(hunched over) is hard on the back & knees, but BAD ***!!!

    I do love COBRA valve covers & a 4 speed, Though. Yeah, you got problems
     
    1927graham likes this.
  15. ok...thanks man

    yup..289,4 speed.....

    yup, 289 SBF... cam her up a little so she percolates, dump the clutch to smoke 'em...can't wait.......
     
  16. chevy54man
    Joined: Feb 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,683

    chevy54man
    Member
    from NC

    Great project, love those coupes! Best to you man in this build!
     
  17. thanks man.....

    well, traded some fender metal repair work for a bronco 9" rear.Here it is! Beyond your wildest dreams would you ever think this could have a hot rod rear under it.....just add new ring and pinion, all new seals and were off to the races......
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  18. NewGuyOldFord
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 596

    NewGuyOldFord
    Member

    Any plans for that 4 spd shifter? PM if interested in selling. Box Bronco rears are great even with the offset pumpkin, 28 spline and truck wheel pattern. Good luck with your project.
     
  19. thanks man.........the shifter, I've heard is also called the"syncor eater"....I'm going to try it out then p*** judgement on it...I'll let you know.....
     
  20. got the wheel wells and rt. quarter end piece tacked into place.....
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  21. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member

    I am not a motor guru but if you can put in the one with the Cobra valve covers that would be my choice... it's got THE LOOK.
     
  22. Mmmm........my votes for the 289 and toploader also! Subscribed!
     
  23. Super Streak
    Joined: Nov 22, 2011
    Posts: 314

    Super Streak
    Member
    from Florida

    Go with the 289 and the c4, a maverick rear will fit in perfect. You got to be a little different. Just about every body is running a small block chevy. Good luck on your project!
     
  24. 2racer
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 959

    2racer
    Member

    what he said... automatic is much better for cruisin
     
  25. that's my choice.......today

    my vote is also the 289 and I'm leaning towards the toploader.......today

    I'm going to mock in both rears and see which one looks best.

    I'm running a c-4 in my '49 ford tudor (302) and my '48 f-1(351w) both have Lokar shifters, really like how they perform.
    Bottom line , I'm going with the 289......The older ford motors out torque the chevy motors any day......... that's my experience talking.....not trying to open up a "barrel of snakes" here but, it is what it is........
     
  26. did some mock-up on the frame.....using '30 ford frame rails, '40 ish straight axle, reverse eye spring, bronco 9" rear 3:55 gears locker,'40 ish front spring. I want the rear wheels directly in the rear wheel wells and the front axle in front of the grille shell.
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  27. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,882

    patmanta
    Member
    from Woburn, MA

    I'm late to the game, but I think 289/4/9 are your numbers!

    I think you're going to be happy with that running the 3.55's.
     
  28. since this is hot rodding, the driveline is not set in stone.....the 9" rear is the only definite so far.Personally I think it's great to have all these options and build your own dream......whatever that might be.......
     
  29. finally did some more framework.... straightened frame, tacked in the backing plates, fit perfect. There from www.wolfsmetalfabrication.com. mocked in the front spring. I'm not sure if the spring perches face up or down , could be either way depending on the height you prefer. Also got her squared up. Next bobb the front horns and add the suicide tube.....
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    patmanta likes this.
  30. more work done on the frame...suicide tube mocked in, also rear spring hangers tacked into place....rear end @ 3 degrees
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    patmanta likes this.

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