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1970 Corvette LT1 engine?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by John 79, Jul 1, 2013.

  1. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,150

    slammed
    Member

    But it (#'s block) will lend a more period perfect build. It's worth has been 'ballparked' by now and has more value in the sprit of a build outside of a stricter restoration build. Give it up.
     
  2. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Well, maybe not the monetary value, but it would sure do a lot for the spiritual value...

    And if a guy were going to do this, I dont really see the point in putting a modern cam in the motor, The whole reason to do it would be to keep it period. I'd either leave the LT-1 cam in it (the wide LSA will help it stay happy on modern pump gas anyway) or plug a period cam in it. If he went to the 4 speed, tunnel-ram and added a set of 4.56's, I would look at something like an Isky Z-65. If you werent going to go hard on the whole period-correct early seventies concept, then I would agree with Don, it would be pointless. Just build a good 350/383.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2013
  3. Aren't All Small Block Chevy's Corvette motors :cool:
     
  4. grr456
    Joined: Dec 16, 2011
    Posts: 9

    grr456
    Member
    from Troy, Mi

    Things that make an LT1 are 4 bolt main high nickle block, windage tray, intake, Holley Carb, Dist with tach drive (Corvette), solid lifter cam, valve covers, steel crank, harmonic balancer, pink rods, forged pistons, heads with screw in studs from the factory, special air cleaner, plus a few more items.

    If you don't have everything listed and you want a real LT1, then you would have to purchase the correct parts and finding all of the bits can get expensive. The engine is worth quite a bit if it is original and complete without the vin milled off at some point if the block was decked. If you can't read the vin or can't determine is origin, then like others have said, it is just a 350.

    If the egine doesn't need a rebuild and it is complete then somewhere between $1300 and $1700 for the engine. If it needs a rebuild then somewhere about $1,000...

    The angle plug heads were good for their time, but you can buy a set of cast iron Dart heads and gain about 25 to 30 HP right out of the box over the original angle plug heads.

    I had a 71 Z/28 with the LT-1.

    Just my .02.....Gary
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2013
  5. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 25,835

    Deuces

    ..... And pink rods, steel crank, nodular iron 4-bolt main caps, 2.02 and 1.60 valve double hump heads, The Z/28 LT-1 aluminun high rise intake with a Holley 780 with vacuum secondary carb....Etc.... All the good stuff man...:D:D

    Almost forgot.... And a partridge in a pair tree.......
    Thank ya very much... Be sure to tip your waitress on the way out!.... :D:eek:
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2013
  6. Revhead
    Joined: Mar 19, 2001
    Posts: 3,027

    Revhead
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    By the way TI is not thermactor injection.. It is Transistor Ignition. The TI distributor is worth a pile of cash.

    I own a '70 LT1 vette, but haven't messed with it in a while.

    Some LT1 stuff I remember:
    Alternator pulley is special, solid machined deep groove.
    Crank and WP pulley are deep as well but stamped.
    Pink rods
    11:1 forged pistons
    4-bolt mains
    6 quart oil pan with baffles and trap door.
    Windage tray
    Nodular Iron crank
    Solid lifter cam

    If the block wasn't decked and you could read the 3 letter code, it is worth more than your average 4-bolt block to the right person.
     
  7. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 25,835

    Deuces

    You sure it has a nodular iron crank????... It should be forged steel...
     
  8. hoop98
    Joined: Jan 23, 2013
    Posts: 1,362

    hoop98
    Member
    from Texas

    Thanks, I was trying to figure it out!

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,795

    Pewsplace
    Member

    To answer the man's question... the engine is worth no more than $500 - 700 here in the states. The missing intake and carb really hurt the value for a restorer. The standard bore makes it a good block to start with. The 010 block is the one that would make more sense to me for what you're doing with the car.
     
  10. bowie
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,164

    bowie
    Member

    Back in those days , around here a hellava lot of guys "said" they had an LT1 in their rides. It was great bragging rights (usally BS) . It was "only" the highest hp carbed small block ;they ever made in the time period. I think it would be cool as heck in your Nova (can't use that oil pan though) , if it can be had for a decent buck.
     
  11. John 79
    Joined: Aug 13, 2006
    Posts: 1,021

    John 79
    Member
    from Sweden

    Yeah,i Think the same.
    The coolfactor is way higher than a "new" Engine in my opinion.
    The price isent higher (in fact lower) tan a built 350 with the same hp.
     
  12. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 8,775

    noboD
    Member

    That pan sells for 400 all day long on ebay.
     

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