I've been working out of town over the last year or so and haven't had an opportunity to do anything on my 50 Plymouth since I had to park it a last July because the freeze plugs inside the bellhousing (on the stock motor) finally gave way. This weekend, I have a 5 day weekend back where the car is and would like to at least get the motor out of the car. I intend to leave the transmission inside the vehicle and pull the motor alone. I've never done this before and would like to make certain I don't run into any headaches. While the motor is out I'd like to replace the clutch. Step 1: Remove the hood: Step 2: Pull the starter and radiator. Step 3: Disconnect carb linkage, exhauset, Wiring, miscellaneous hoses etc. Step 4: Attach engine lift to motor and adjust the lift so that it has a bit of tension on it. Step 5: Disconnect the 6 bolts holding attaching the motor to the bellhousing Step 6: Disconnect front motor mount Step 7: Pull forward and angle motor out of the engine bay. Step 8: Put on stand and enjoy being able to move around engine to work on stuff. Am I missing anything here? Any tips, tricks, etc?
and make sure that you set the jackstands where the cherry picker will not get into them that always make it a paine in the ***.
Sounds like you're properly prepared. Maybe get 1 more set of hands. Figure on changing all the freeze plugs since you're doing the rear's and it's out anyway. You may not be able to access the rear freeze plugs while mounted on an engine stand. Have flywheel sufaced and replace pilot bushing in the crankshaft. Good luck Greg One more thing, I just did a clutch on my '42 Dodge truck and had to pull the trans out a second time to have the resufaced pressure plate set to the correct height, if it's a 3 finger pressure plate like mine the height is extremely critical or there's not enough linkage adjustment in the clutch linkage, so no pedal. Do your homework and be sure of this pressure plate setpoint. The shop that re-surfaces your flywheel should have this measurement. And this is done with your pressure plate and clutch disc bolted to a fixture. I'll shut up now
Covered under #2 Plan for the unknown. Meaning give yourself more time than you think you will need. Mark your hood hinges before you remove the hood, this will help with getting the hood back on in alignment and save some time. I don't see it on your list but disconnect battery.
I think/have heard the whole front sheet metal comes off as a unit if you want. 14 bolts and a cherry picker, get the fenders & grill out of your way. Radiator attached to same sheet metal, so disconnect it, same with front lights.
Ramps or some planks stacked up work pretty well to raise the car just high enough so you can slide under the car and the cherry picker clears the A arms.
Was going to suggest this. The transmission just hang on the back of the engine with no trans mount to the frame. The rear engine mount is the bellhousing. Actually, I haven't pulled one of these for many years and cannot recall with certainty, but I think you may not be able to pull the engine while leaving the bellhousing in place, Were it me doing this job, I would drop the trans, and remove the engine complete with the bellhousing, clutch and flywheel all in place and dis***emble them as needed on the floor. Ray
Yep...only problem dropping the ****** is the bolt on the top left is a proper bear to get at. If you don't have enough extensions and U-joints to get it out, lots of old timers slotted the floor and did it from up top. That being said, I'd still drop the ****** first.
Hmmm....bet that's why they recommended pulling it as a unit. I bet that top bolt would be a lot easier to get at after you move it ahead a couple inches.
I looked through the manual last time I was home and couldn't find anything regarding pulling the motor... Any idea where it would be?
I got the info from Chrysler Corporation of Canada Shop Manual WM-4247 covering 1949-50-51-52 Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth and DeSoto cars. Engine section 7 page 5. The same information also appears in MoToR Repair Manual, 1954 edition, DeSoto Shop Manual CHP-255211 1949-52 S-13 S-14 S-15 models (excluding Firedome Eight (model S-17)) and no doubt, other places as well.
I pulled the motor on my 50 Plymouth alone and you'll definitely have it hang up on the input shaft of the ******, pulling the whole thing out in one piece would likely be better. I also ran into interference between the rad support brace and the motor when trying to get the motor out, limited ceiling height in garage. I cut out the horizontal brace for the rad and just made up a couple of pieces of metal to reattach it after. The aggravation will be quadrupled when you try to line up the motor and trans when putting it back together. Once again having the motor and ****** out would be easier IMHO. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
It is really not cool to pull the engine and ****** as a unit without pulling the front sheetmetal. The angle needed to clear the e brake over the rear cross member is a bear. You need a good leveler on your picker, not a cheapy from Harbor Freight but a good one. The engine and trans together are over 700 lbs. A hint for reinstalling the trans, there is a panel in the front floor that gives you unrestricted access to the trany. If you don't want to mess with that, you can make guide pins by cutting the heads of 3 inch long bolts the same as the trans bolts. make two, cut a slot in the outer end so you can pull them out with s screw driver ans subs***ure allen head cap screws for the upper bolts then you can use the allen head to get the upper bolts started and thightened . When reinstalling, use the guide pins on the upper left and lower right, then slide the trans onto the pins and into the flywheel bushing the guides will align the trans ad allow you to wiggle the splines on the input shaft. There should be a gasket between the trans and the belhousing. If your gets messd up you will need to cut another from gasket material. It is necessary to keep the trans oil in where the slider shafts peetrate the front of the trans.
In case nobody has mentioned it, I would suggest taking a zillion photos prior to and during dis-***embly. They will all come in handy. In this day and age of the digital camera there is no excuse for missing any shots of details you may need later to re-***emble. Lots of notes will help, too.
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