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Fenderwell exit headers?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by PooterWS6, Oct 9, 2005.

  1. PooterWS6
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 113

    PooterWS6
    Member
    from DFW, TX

    Need help finding a set that will work with my combo....
    A buddy gave me a set off a 351M for a 4x4 Ford truck, but the collector makes a B line for my firewall...
    Just trying to find a set that dump down, but still the sbf exhaust spacing, prefer 1 3/4" primarys....
    I need more of a downswept design, like this pic, but havent been able to find anything for a sbf
    [​IMG]
    Am I better off trying to mod a set of fenderwell exits for a tri-five?
    PS, its not going in a tri-five, its going in a nova.
    Any help would be appreciated
     
  2. PooterWS6
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 113

    PooterWS6
    Member
    from DFW, TX

  3. Ayers Garage
    Joined: Nov 28, 2002
    Posts: 1,387

    Ayers Garage
    Member

    So you're putting an SBF in your Nova?
     
  4. PooterWS6
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 113

    PooterWS6
    Member
    from DFW, TX

    Nope, but I need the same spacing....
    Its getting a carbed LSx....
     
  5. Hot Rod To Hell
    Joined: Aug 19, 2003
    Posts: 3,036

    Hot Rod To Hell
    Member
    from Flint MI

    How different is the LS ports spacing from a BBC?
    You should be able to find some small primary BB headers out there.

    Also, fwiw, I have fenderwell headers on my '55 (sbc, ****** super comps), and they definitely would NOT fit a first gen nova (I have two of those too), unless you straight axled it.

    But if you're feeling creative, it wouldn't be too terribly difficult to modify the SBC headers to do what you need.
     
  6. Thirdyfivepickup
    Joined: Nov 5, 2002
    Posts: 6,096

    Thirdyfivepickup
    Member

    I would think you might have better luck looking at the off brands... Sanderson and such.

    Honestly.... you are probably better off having a set made.
     
  7. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,979

    George
    Member

    The 351M isn't a SBF. It's an intermediate size blockusing Cleveland type heads 351M/400 series. SBF usually refers to the smaller 289/302 family. Not shure if headers interchange between the 351C & the 351M.
     
  8. Smokin Joe
    Joined: Mar 19, 2002
    Posts: 3,770

    Smokin Joe
    Member

    Try Dougs, not sure what the website or phone number is anymore but I bet they'd make what you need.

    Found the site. Used to use their headers back in the good old days and they fit :)

    http://www.dougsheaders.com/
     
  9. PooterWS6
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 113

    PooterWS6
    Member
    from DFW, TX

    Its has a straight axle underneath it now;)
    No inner fenders, plenty of room...(only issue might be how far the headers come out from the block)

    The BBC spacing is pretty close, but the primarys are WAY too big, I need 1 3/4" max...
     
  10. PooterWS6
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 113

    PooterWS6
    Member
    from DFW, TX

    Yes but the port spacing is almost exactly like a SBF, 351 is also in that category....
    The port spacing between the SBF/351M/LS1 is almost dead on
    With the 351M headers I was currently trying to use, the ports/bottom bolt holes all line up, there is a sublte difference in port shape though, which I will fix by cutting off the old flanges and welding on the LS1 flange.

    The main problem im having is I need a more downswept design, instead of the backswept ones, as these are dumping right into the firewall.



    Having a set of headers made at this point in time, isnt an option, I dont have near enough money for something like that..
     
  11. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,979

    George
    Member

    351C2V & 4V exhaust manifolds will not interchange, don't know if M is the same as either.
     
  12. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,250

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    Only because of the flange bolt pattern. He's whacking those off and putting a late model GM header flange on the Ford headers. It works...

    All I've seen are ugly over-the-frame Ford truck headers. No one makes a nice looking fenderwell header for a small Ford? :confused:
     
  13. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,979

    George
    Member

    What I was thinking @ the time was the large ports on the 4V E.M. would work like the anti-reversion headers that was newest thing then. the 4V E.M. bolted right up to the 2V heads, but the large ports on the E.M. didn't cover the smaller ports of the 2V head. Seems the ports aren't in the same place.
     
  14. PooterWS6
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 113

    PooterWS6
    Member
    from DFW, TX

    Heres a pic with the headers on the motor, to give you a better idea of what im talking about...
    The problem is the circle, where the primarys curve to go to the collector, I need them straight, would I be better off hacking the collector off, and cut the primarys before the curve, and have a new collector welded on?
     

    Attached Files:

  15. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,979

    George
    Member

    That should work. going full system, or just puke out the fender well?
     
  16. PooterWS6
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 113

    PooterWS6
    Member
    from DFW, TX

    Just dumping right under the fenderwell...
    Might put some inserts in the collector if its TOO loud, but probably not;)
    Cant atract too much of the wrong attention, as Ill be cruising this thing quite a bit.
     
  17. ironworks
    Joined: Nov 10, 2004
    Posts: 294

    ironworks
    Member

    I can sell you a formed collector that will slide right on to your pipes and then you could either put a 90 degree in the collector or have it dump into the fender well and tee off the side so you could remove the collector cover and have open header or have a plate that covers the collector and the exhaust will go out the exhaust system. That would probably be the easiest way trying to lengthen those tubes could prove to be a ***** to weld around the pipes since they are already welded into the collector.

    Or I can build you a custom set or headers but I need the car.


    Rodger
     

    Attached Files:

  18. flamedabone
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 5,754

    flamedabone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Pooter. I think your best bet is what Ironworks is talking about. Cutting the 90 out of your existing headers and sliding on a new collector.


    It's a ***** to weld all the way around a header tube that is already ***embled... Plus, the collectors come in about any size and are about 20- 30 bucks a piece. (I get mine from Speedway, but it sounds like Ironworks can hook you up too.)

    Here's a shot of the mock-up Henry J with a pretty good look at the collector.


    Good luck, -Abone.
     
  19. PooterWS6
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 113

    PooterWS6
    Member
    from DFW, TX

    Thanks guys:cool:

    Ironworks, I may hit you up on the collector, too bad you arent closer, and I dont have more money, otherwise itd be easier to have you fab them up for me...

    Ill try to make do with what I have.
    Any tips for sealing the area between the primarys once you weld the collector around it? Or how do you get the center area to seal?
     
  20. Ford Freak
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 827

    Ford Freak
    Member

    You have to weld a small plate in between the primarys BEFORE the collector is welded on. Thats what seals the center area. Look inside your collector and you will see it, or you can see it when you cut it off the primarys. Saw your pics on the g***er thread. Lookin good!! Hope this helps you.

    Bernie
     
  21. PooterWS6
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 113

    PooterWS6
    Member
    from DFW, TX

    Cool thanks man, makes sense, just never took one apart to know:p

    Thanks for the kind words, hope to have it running soon
    <-fingers crossed:cool:
     
  22. ironworks
    Joined: Nov 10, 2004
    Posts: 294

    ironworks
    Member

    I take a short piece of solid round stock and shape it to a dull point on the grinder and place it right in the middle of the tubes. Or build a small 4 sided pyramid shaped deal to cover the gape. You want it to cover the gap and be about 1" tall.They do this trick in the fancy high dollar race headers in NASCAR to permote flow. Actual the piece that they make looks alittle different but that tiny deal would take forever to fab by hand out of tubing.
    It looks like a 4 sided pyramid made with the concave sides going in and about 1 inch tall.

    There are lots of race teams in bakersfield and I get to go to some of the shops and picked up that tidbit from them.

    Those Winston West guys pay like $6000 for a set of tuned headers.

    Rodger
     
  23. PooterWS6
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 113

    PooterWS6
    Member
    from DFW, TX

    Awesome, thanks.
    You actually answered the question I sent in the PM:eek:

    Shouldnt be too bad.

    Thanks for the help guys, think I got it worked out now.:cool:
     
  24. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,250

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    That's what I'm talkin about! Scoot that motor back, Wade.
     

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