which is the best option when it comes to cost on stripping a 64 Chevy cab? Paint stripper which is kinds high and messy or a sand blaster which Id have to buy and id use sand and is messy.if I use stripper how many gallons would I need to do the cab and if I do the sand blaster 'say the harbor freight one how many bsgs of sand would I need? I just need the cab stripped now for body repair and primer.
I sandblast every project..actually we use glass, much finer, I notice on here, almost nobody does.???? they are welding rusty metal.? anyway we have a blaster here in town, that keeps the mess at his place.. if you don't have one near by, why not grind most of with a feather edge pad or sanding discs, and do the real hard to get at spots with the liquid paint stripper.. we use aircraft stripper, much better. good luck.
It's usually a better option to just take it to a sandblaster who's already set up for the job. Depending on who's doing the work, it's not that expensive and you save yourself the time, effort and mess. And he can probably give 'er a coat of primer too...before it starts rusting. If you do it yourself, you can save, sift and reuse some of the sand 2 or 3 times before it loses too much of its cutting ability. But I'd say that you'll still go through at least 3 bags of sand for a cab...probably more.
The liquid stripper will almost cost as much as hiring a sand blaster, and you don't have to clean up the mess.
I use a local sand blaster. He does a lot of cars and knows not to blast large flat panels. Well worth the money IMHO.
I like sandblasting but those 3M sandblasting discs work great! Now if you are truly traditional you will hand sand..This 46 Ford was all hand sanded to bare metal,,not mine and no wonder its been a 20 year build..
I like sandblasting but those 3M sandblasting discs work great! Now if you are truly traditional you will hand sand..This 46 Ford was all hand sanded to bare metal,,not mine and no wonder its been a 20 year build..
These work great, but only for certain paints, plus your hands will hurt very badly after holding it FOREVER. I highly suggest using a wire wheel on your grinder (assuming 4"). Make sure you wear gloves, EYE PROTECTION, hearing protection and a respirator. This wire wheel will take off what you are looking to remove for the most part and if you follow up behind with a 3M wheel like suggested previously you can be down to bare metal without breaking the bank. I stripped my 1940 Plymouth and 1959 Apache like this. I only have like $75 total between the both, you will be left with a lot of dust, so a respirator is a must for this old paint.
I use glass also.....bought the whole rig at the first of the year. I have also used paint stripper and the only one I will use anymore is Captain Lee's. you can only order it off the Internet but it is the best I have used and the least messy.
I sandblast all the cars I build behind my shop,,first and foremost to sandblast something as large as a truck cab you are going to need a large capacity air compressor,,sandblasters use up air fast. You need to were a respirator and proper eye protection,,silica dust will get in your lungs without it and it's deadly. Play sand at home improvement stores will work but it has to be sifted before use. if you go to a concrete plant you can buy fine sand designed for sandblasting. It's not hard to do and very satisfying if you have the right equipment. HRP
I've used the stripping discs that I get from the local welding house. they fit my 4 in. grinder and used three to strip the paint from my 46 coupe
and make sure you have a dryer in the system so you don't have wet sand in the blasting pot. It is only $150 to blast a frame around here, $300-ish for a body.
Yeah,I left that part out,,I have a air dryer in my system. All in all if you don't have the right equipment you are better off paying to have blasting done by someone set up to do it for you. HRP
I agree with all the posts about the stripping discs. I used them to strip the stepside bed on my '64 C10. They cut through 3 layers of paint/primer and bondo with ease. Give one a try, I think it will make a believer out of you.
What are you removing more of? Rust or Paint? A cherry cab with to many layers of paint needs stripper. a rusty shell that needs to be prepped for weld repair needs to be blasted.
I think them 3m pads will do trick.Any idea how many I'll nee to do the cab?I have a matco 90 dagree air grinder that I believe the 3m pads will fit in.I also have a snapon Da palm sander.I went to school for body work so I have most of the tools it's mostly old paint and some bondo I believe.
I'd say 2 of those 5" paint/rust stripper pads should do the whole cab, you'll probably get through most of the cab with one disk as long as you don't catch an edge. The slower the speed the longer they last. They make ones that fit on 4.5" angle grinders that are made of a slightly harder material to deal with the higher rpm, these cut through paint pretty quick, the ones that are made to chuck into a 1/4 drill are soft and don't cut through paint as fast.
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