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initial timing SBC

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 47fordcoe, Jun 7, 2006.

  1. 47fordcoe
    Joined: Dec 8, 2005
    Posts: 266

    47fordcoe
    Member
    from San Diego

    OK..my initial timing is set at 10 degrees...is that it!! I here total timing..did I miss a step.. If so How do I set my total timing sbc 350..I did a search and found nothing...I feel real f-n stupid right about now. thanks Hambers
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,682

    squirrel
    Member

    unplug the vacuum hose if there is one, get a timing light with a dial or digital readout, and the see what the timing is when you rev the engine up enough that the timing won't advance any more (probably around 2000- 3000 rpm or so). Should be set to somewhere around 34 degrees on a 350 with older design heads, maybe a bit less for the modern heads.
     
  3. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

  4. SinisterCustom
    Joined: Feb 18, 2004
    Posts: 8,277

    SinisterCustom
    Member

    Yep.
    If your advance isn't "all in" by 2800-3000 RPM, I'd try different springs on the advance mechanism.

    Josh
     
  5. 47fordcoe
    Joined: Dec 8, 2005
    Posts: 266

    47fordcoe
    Member
    from San Diego

    How can total timing be set with a vaccum pump....hook the pump up to the dist and put a vaccum load on and then what!! what would I be looking for..
     
  6. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,682

    squirrel
    Member

    That's for figuring out how much vacuum advance you get, which isn't really too important, as long as it still runs smooth when cruising. The info I gave is for how to figure out how much mechanical advance you're getting.
     
  7. Yep,,thats the way ya do it.As far as dial-back lights go,MSD actually recommends a Sears Craftsman timing light(at least they did a few years ago).
    I use a zip tie on mine to permanantley hold the button down.
    Then you can hold the light with one hand at the back,& rotate the dial with your thumb while your other hand brings the RPM up.....make sense?
     
  8. Fossil
    Joined: Jan 9, 2006
    Posts: 357

    Fossil
    Member

    SBC's normally run 32-34 degrees total Mechanical advance. Should be "all-in" by about 2,500-3,000 RPM's. Disconnect and plug the vac. advance line, hook up a timing light and read the timing while you or a friend opens the throttle a little. Check to see what your total timing is when it's fully advanced. Adjust to the aforementioned 32-34 degrees. Also record the RPM's at which it stopped advancing. If it's way higher than the 2,500-3,000 start trying lighter advance springs to get it down in that range. You will probably end up with 8-10 degrees at idle, but the important is not the idle timing...it's the fully advanced total as well as the "advance curve"...ie: the rate that it will advance as RPM's increase.
    -Scott
     
  9. 47fordcoe
    Joined: Dec 8, 2005
    Posts: 266

    47fordcoe
    Member
    from San Diego

    ok...just so I'm getting it!!
    -inital setting is at 10 BTDC
    -unhook and plug vac advance line at the source of vaccum which is at the carb.
    -start it up and get the RPMs (between 2500-3000)up to where there is no more advancing. let say it's at 34 BTDC.
    - so I replace and/or adjust the springs and weights in the distributor to equate out to 24 degrees. I know theres a X2 factor for the vaccume advance.
     
  10. Fossil
    Joined: Jan 9, 2006
    Posts: 357

    Fossil
    Member

    Not quite:
    1.) Plug vac. adv. line.
    2.) Hook up timing light
    3.) Read the timing while you increase RPM's until it stops advancing...record that RPM.
    4.) Observe the total advance and adjust to 32-34 degrees (keep the RPM's up while doing this).
    5.) Only mess with the advance springs if it took more than about 2,500-3,000 RPM to come in totally.
    6.) Don't worry about your timing at idle. Just hook up the vac. advance when you're finished and that's it.
     
  11. Most aftermarket vac advance units have the number of degrees they pull stamped on them.Usually on the flat plate part of the can.
    This can be verified with the vacuum pump method with the engine running,& simply checking the timing marks movement at the dampener.
    Adjustable units are cool,but you can modify the stock units by making 'stops' or by giving it more travel inside the distributor.
     
  12. Gator
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,016

    Gator
    Member

    The weights and springs dictate how fast the timing comes in, not how much you have. (This is called the curve)

    Your total timing is initial + mechanical + vacuum. Like the others have said here, you want it all in by 3,000 rpm.
     
  13. SinisterCustom
    Joined: Feb 18, 2004
    Posts: 8,277

    SinisterCustom
    Member

    Some lights don't have the button (FERRET)
    I use my teeth:eek: to turn the dial too! Never have anyone around to help.

    Josh
     
    pila38 likes this.
  14. 47fordcoe
    Joined: Dec 8, 2005
    Posts: 266

    47fordcoe
    Member
    from San Diego

    perfect!!!!!! simple as hell and easy to follow!
    thanks Fossil
    Aaron
     
  15. POWBucket
    Joined: Jul 4, 2013
    Posts: 21

    POWBucket
    Member

    Man I sure do Love the HAMB.......I was messing around with the timing and added timing tape and tab and wanted to set it for performance.
     
  16. POWBucket
    Joined: Jul 4, 2013
    Posts: 21

    POWBucket
    Member

    Ok so I am curious here. I did as above. I didn't worry about my idle timing persay. I revved the engine up till timing did not change anymore which gave me 32* and it all came in about 2200 rpms. I had my son helping with this, he was my eyes on the tach..LOL. anyway that was with vac advance unhooked and vac port plugged. after locking down Dizzy I rechecked it to make sure it didn't move and it was still set at 32* at 2200 rpms. My idle rpms are 750 rpm. When I hooked up vac advance to full vacuum port of carb i had to bring the idle back down to 750 rpm. I then revved the engine with advance hooked up and got a reading of 52* at 2200 rpm. Is this good or bad. I haven't test drove it yet but will shortly. sounds good and starts good and has that nice cam hit to it too.
     
  17. landseaandair
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,485

    landseaandair
    Member
    from phoenix

    Sounds about right. The vacuum advance will pull timing out under load as you lose vacuum and bring it back in as you return to a light load situation like cruising down the freeway. As long as you're not pinging, all is good.
     
  18. 29AVEE8
    Joined: Jun 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,384

    29AVEE8
    Member

    Just curious. What is your initial now with vac. disconnected and plugged?
     
  19. POWBucket
    Joined: Jul 4, 2013
    Posts: 21

    POWBucket
    Member

    about 16* or so. Maybe a little more towards 17*. I drove to town and back and it runs like a scalded dog. No pinging at all either.
     
  20. POWBucket
    Joined: Jul 4, 2013
    Posts: 21

    POWBucket
    Member

    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]

    and I even added something else....... I started doing just The POW Bucket and went all the way around with WWI - WWII - Korea - Vietnam - Desert Storm - OIF - OEF
    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]
     
  21. POWBucket
    Joined: Jul 4, 2013
    Posts: 21

    POWBucket
    Member

    I then masked off the timing tape, painted it all black, took the engraver and went over the engravings so it'll stand out and then clear coated it all. I did the engraving because if the tape comes off I have the markings still.
    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG][/IMG]
     

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