Register now to get rid of these ads!

COE 1941 Ford COE build

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by wetskier2000, Jul 15, 2011.

  1. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    10 in a box.
     
  2. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Working my way around the inner wheelwells very slowly. Rear, right, lower section replaced. Welding skills still questionable but getting better. Closed up a couple other holes in the right wheelwell. Opened the left front section to replace a weld nut and welded it back up.

    Ordered new inner fenders from Northern. Removed the left inner fender. Rosie the Riveter.... errrr... spot welder didn't fool around... There were LOTS of spot welds...
    Wondering about the best way to put the new one in...

    pics..
     
  3. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

  4. 65standard
    Joined: Jun 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,096

    65standard
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That has to be the most engineered steering set up out there. Love the tilt cab.
     
  5. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Patch made for left wheel well rot. trying flanging instead of **** welding. Fitment sure is easier!

    [​IMG]
     
  6. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,612

    kscarguy
    Member

    Those pesky wheel wells are a pain to repair but are oh so important.
     
  7. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    While waiting to get gas for the welder, I started on the brake steup. Cut up 2 Cherokee brake pedal hangers to make one to fit the COE. Added the 90 degree bracket I got from the cube van... Clearance for the booster and MC looks like it will be very good. May have a nearly flat firewall with just a slight dimple for the booster.

    Next back to the wheelwell...


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  8. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,612

    kscarguy
    Member

    Where is your radiator? Will it clear the booster? If not, you could turn that pivot point and run a rod straight down the firewall, add another pivot and mount the booster under the floor.
     
  9. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Plan for the radiator is nearly the stock position in relation to the motor as it was in the Corvette. It had minimal frontal surface exposure in the Vette and it has dual fans so I think it can do the job back there... We'll see...
     
  10. You're doing real fine . Keep at it and keep the pictures coming .
     
  11. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,612

    kscarguy
    Member

    Radiator in back will work fine, just get air to it and use relays to control the fans. Also consider installing an over-ride switch to trigger the relays to turn the fans on whenever you want them on.
     
  12. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Been VERY SLOWLY working on things... Brakes are in and plumbed, Steering is completely in using a new underdash mount that supports the brake pedals and steering column. Left inner fender is installed..

    My modis operandi has been work on the body as much as I can tolerate then go back to something I'm good at. My welds still really stink sometimes, other times they are great... It's terribly frustrating. I will probably just tack the sheet metal in place and look for help for the final welding. Blowing holes in my new Northern Cl***ic Truck panels would really irk me.

    here are the pics...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
  13. Just found this thread.
    Love those COE's. Yours looks great!
    Only COE part I have is a flathead pulled from a 52. The guy got it for the body and sold us the engine - locked up but we got it apart and it's a builder.
    Good luck with that thing!
     
  14. xtremek
    Joined: May 1, 2011
    Posts: 78

    xtremek
    Member

    I was beginning to think you gave up on it. Glad to see you've been chipping away at it.
     
  15. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,612

    kscarguy
    Member

    On my trip to KC, Several times I thought it would be nice to have a place on that inner fender to rest my foot. Might be something to think about.
     
  16. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    I think I might need the seats in to know where to put one...

    Another small bit of quick learning last night.... When I removed the left inner fender, I drilled out the spot welds. It took quite a while... When I removed the small piece forward of the inner fender that completes the wheelwell (I've been calling it a skirt), I used my air chisel. It worked the balls. It distorted the piece getting recreated, but left the attachment surfaces alone. It took mere minutes to remove the part.

    Now the hard part.... recreating the part..... It's got a few curves I'm unsure about doing...
     
  17. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Hopefully, this thread stays put...

    Slowly continuing on the body work... This is my "shade tree" method for t******* a curved flange on the new Northern Cl***ic inner fender with the nibbler. Yup, that's a battery cable.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

  19. iwanaflattie
    Joined: May 14, 2011
    Posts: 4,204

    iwanaflattie
    Member

    Good to see it here.
    Post a lot please
     
  20. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,612

    kscarguy
    Member

    ...that side post battery cable is not traditional, you need to use a top post cable.
     
  21. gkent
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 108

    gkent
    Member

    Yes, and you need to trim that flange with hand shears.
     
  22. b-bop
    Joined: May 19, 2008
    Posts: 1,011

    b-bop
    Member

    Ha Ha, comedians everywhere, glad to see you over here Wetskier
     
  23. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Some more small steps. Made the panel that's forward of the new Northern Cl***ic inner fender. Left inner and new panel tacked in place.

    I had drilled out the spot welds on the left inner, but used my traditional air chisel to remove the front panel. It worked quite well with minor distortion. I tried the same method on the right inner fender which worked well but the part that curves around the inner door area didn't really provide access for an air chisel. After scratching my head a bit, I thought, why not just grind the top edge off. It worked great. This probably seems obvious to most of you guys, but I'm still a newbie.

    Here's the left one installed, that I drilled out the spot welds..

    [​IMG]

    Here's the right one where I used the grinder to remove the top edge, then air chisell
    ed.

    [​IMG]
     
  24. fordsbyjay
    Joined: Nov 4, 2009
    Posts: 755

    fordsbyjay
    Member
    from Lafayette

    So what got this thread closed? The wheels or the power brakes?
     
  25. gkent
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 108

    gkent
    Member

    The use of power tools and electric lights in the workshop !!
     
  26. fordsbyjay
    Joined: Nov 4, 2009
    Posts: 755

    fordsbyjay
    Member
    from Lafayette

    Snap. I'm going to have to sell my air compressor now.....(;
     
  27. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Some would say I'm already working in the dark! HA!
     
  28. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,853

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Slowly continuing on the body... Fixed more swiss cheese in the right door area..

    Any thoughts on spot welders??

    [​IMG]


    New patch

    [​IMG]


    More Cheese Below, that's next..

    [​IMG]
     
  29. JOYFLEA
    Joined: Jan 22, 2013
    Posts: 2,056

    JOYFLEA
    Member

    Looks real good and glad to see you posting here . Blue
     
  30. 65standard
    Joined: Jun 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,096

    65standard
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Glad to see you're making progress on your COE. I think we both have the same rust issues to deal with.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.