When Keith first started sending me images of the Y-Block Ford mounted between the frame rails of our '38 coupe, it took me a while to notice just how close the oil pan flange was to the front crossmember. Eventually, I did and asked Keith if there ... <BR><BR>To read the rest of this blog entry from The Jalopy Journal, click here.
I must be missing something or I am just a dumb ***. I that for the through bolt for the spring pack?
ok guys instead of the U bolts holding a pad under the spring they added some meat to the cross member and the pad bolts in front to back threw the cross member nice and flush thus keeping the pad and ditching the u- bolts. ya gotta look at it a few times to catch it
Looks nice, So... does the taper on the head of the bolts draw the block tight enough against the spring? I was taught that U bolts are substantial in size in order to clamp the spring in place to prevent crossmember cracks and leaves from cracking due to over flexing at the center bolt.
Is the spring still pushing on the underside of the crossmember like stock, or is it hanging above the spacer by the centering pin?
To add to this, and this is an ***umption so correct me if I'm wrong: the spring pack will be securely bolted to that meaty pad first, then attached to the crossmember with those 4 flush bolts? I dig it. Clean and simple. The only possible draw-back to this design is there is no means to "level out" the front end to account for any right-left weight distribution delta. I like to play with the u-bolt torques to accomplish that. I guess shims could work instead though.
Holy **** I never would have thought of that.. Awesome. Really cool. I really look forward to the updates on this car.
Quick note. Love having the 'accessories' mounted low so the engine is the star. Fought to do it that way on my truck. Nice solution to the spring mount clearance issue. Use #8 or better hardware and should be good.
Hot Rod Pro does a similar set up by welding tabs to the cross member and running the bolts vertically. Keith's way looks pretty stout and clean.
I still don't understand. What "clamps" the spring up into the U of the crossmember? I see it won't fall out the bottom, but what holds it up tight? Is there just a pack of shims between the bottom of the spring and the new plate?
Yea, I don't get it either. But I'm sure it must be obvious or everyone else wouldn't be raving over it? Maybe a photo with it all mounted up would make it all clear?
I had to pie cut and section my oil pan to clear it in my '35. It was tight after an old repair which consisted of welding 1/4" plate to the top of the crossmember to fix a common crack. I like progress!
It's super simple... I'll reprise this post on final ***embly with an image of how it all goes together.
Ok, I hope I don't end up on the S--- List, but I can't see this working on something that will see a lot of real road use. Racecar, yes. Like Tbirdesq mentioned, there is a boatload of stress at the center mount, especially on any body roll or dips on one wheel. We tend to forget that 100% of all jolts and road vibration put on the front half of the car, concentrate right there. I just can't see those tapered allen heads staying tight. One poster alluded to that by suggesting through bolts and nuts instead. I realize the pic of the mock up motor is probably just sorta close to where it will finally mount up, but even custom made "flattened top" U bolts really don't use up much room. Maybe i am missing the main reason why the motor could not be moved a tiny bit, to allow flat top/band top, U-bolts..... But I do know when it comes down to not wanting to cut a firewall, or hood clearance, then we get stuck doing something we'd rather not do.
will the spring pack bolt go up thru the crossmember. if not, are the 4 (2 front and 2 rear) strong enough to hold the spring pack in place under rough driving conditions (pot holes exc...) I like the idea though.
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