1953 chevy truck brakes, aftermarket

hi guys, i'm having trouble with installing my master cylinder in my 1953 chevy 1 ton. i bought a non power master cylinder for it because i have drums in front and rear, the master cylinder i bought needed an adaptor bracket, so i bought that to, but when I went to install them the cylinder was spaced to far away from where it should be for the brake arm to push on it properly. it still does, sort of from an angle, but i don't want to jerry-rig anything about the brakes if you know what i mean. & my front drums are stock, but the whole rear axle including brakes is from a 73 Chevy Cheyanne 1 ton.
thanks in advance

 

I will be doing the same. I will let you know what I come up with. Might just need to add spacer were push rod connects to pedal to straighten it out. Could always try their tech support.

 

yea thats what i was thinking, but is your rig a manual? i would have to have that work with the clutch, i'm thinking of just welding on an extension to where the master pushrod is so its not moving the pedal out, just the part that pushes back. & if not even just tap the hole that the cotter pin goes through & bolt it on, it ould only need to go out about 1/2 - 3/4 inch for me

 

oh & also does anybody know if i should do anything about the 1973 cheyanne rear brakes? would i need some special kind of proportioning valve?

 

Yes, I have a saginaw 4 speed. The pedals stays in the same position. the shim would go were the pushrod mounts to the pedal. I hope to fab up my bracket later this week. I will let you know what I come up with.
If the bores of the wheel clinders are the same as stock (front and rear). And the bore of your new master cylinder is the same as the original you should not need a proportionin valve

 

ok thank you. And even if the 73 cheyanne was power brakes, i wouldent need a prop valve? is it all the same pressure at the slave cylinders anyway? thanks for the help

 

I got every thing moked up. My truck is a half ton. I put the new master prety close to were the old one was. It is wider so the center is farther out from the frame, about a half inch. I will make a spacer that mounts between the pedal and heim joint to compensate for this. Some guys mount the new master farther back. this will decrease the angle of the push rod as well.
As far as the valve goes, my truck did not have one. My new master has the same bore size as the old one so I should be good to go. I have friends who changed bore sizes with bad results.
You did not say if the truck stops good now. Have you driven it or are you starting from scratch? A good parts guy will be able to tell you what the original bore size was and what a '73 with power brakes is. Good luck with the project.

 

i got it all figured out & yes i am starting from scratch, i just bent the adaptor bracket in so it angled towards the pedal a tiny little bit like 10 degrees, and then it all worked fine, the original bore size was 1" on the 73 as well, so that should work great, thanks for the help guys