The torque of my SBC in my T Bucket, made it rock to the right, tear the rubber mount and cut my upper radiator hose, so I installed a solid mount. Cured the problem. I was told I'd get a vibration, but so far nothing. Might have been bad rubber, but after replacing 2, I went solid. Your results may vary and opinions on doing this procedure vary.
Avantages few; No more broken rubbr mounts Disadvantages many. Metal fatigue, vibrations, broken trans case.
I've had one set on the street (been racing with them for years), in a 71 big block Charger. That car drummed so bad it would give me a headache after about a 1/2 hour in it.
I built solid mts for my street driven coupe. My reasons...with solid mts on engine I know if I set clearance for headers,exhaust,dist. ****ter shield etc. as long as bolts are tight nothing moves nuthing rubs,no rattles....This also let me solid mt the mufflers tailpipes etc and know they aint gonna move...clutch adjustments (because of linkage flex) do not change...I do however run a poly rear trans mt. DO NOT solid mt the tailshaft! Use locknuts and or lock***e on everything.Make sure when u bolt things together,use the proper legnth shank,in other words do not let parts bolted ride on threads.A little common sense goes a long way....
Chrysler factory mounts had a problem of engine torque ripping the driver side mount open on stout big block Mopar engines. Solid mounts cured the problem but then vibration was an issue. There now is a rubber mount with a limiting bolt to keep the rubber from getting ripped. I have them on my car and they work.
SB and BB chevy mounts 1972 and older have a habit of breaking the drivers side mount from the engine torquing over. I use a solid mount only on the drivers side and regular rubber mounts on the p***enger side and trans. Solves the problem and no need to mount the engine completely rigid. 73 up GM clamshell mounts dont break but are ugly, good for a closed engine car. I had one nova with a 400SB and all rubber mounts that would torque over so bad it would kick the trans into neutral, had to hold the shifter when flooring it during a race. Solid mount on drivers side fixed it.
Solid mounts cause vibration and drumming problems and rubber mounts can separate (which causes issues of its own) with high torque engines so what I do is use stock motor mounts but I drill a hole right through all the layers (steel and rubber) then use a Grade 8 bolt, lock washer and nut to hold everything together. This way I get the best of both worlds. This also is undetected and all looks stock as I don't like turnbuckles, chains, etc.
What about running urathane mounts? Stronger than stock rubber mounts with much less flex. I can't speak from experience but I am considering trying them.
I used to do that, it is a bandaid. Short length of chain, cable, etc. There is no harshness running just the one solid mount, that is why I only run one, so no need for the rubber mount on the drivers side. I had a BB chevelle with solid mounts on both sides up front, over time one ended up literally tearing almost in half from the beating it was getting. I dont think it is a good idea to run all solid and have no movement allowed. Just my opinion, your mileage will vary. Poly mount will also work, they are popular in the chevelle world, but to be sure it wont break I run the one solid mount.
If you run solid engine mounts, you should run a energy type tail ****** mount... I have cracked ****** cases while dragracing
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