Hello Everyone, My 29 Dodge has 4 rusted shut doors. I have gone thru two cans of penitrating oil and have used a punch and hammer trying to remove the pins. This approach has not worked. I am looking at purchasing Eastwoods "Door Hinge Pin Puller" Item # 31139 Has anyone used this tool? What worked for you? Thanks for any help!!!!
Never used Eastwoods puller but doubt it would work in your case. Try grinding the top off of one of the hinge pins and then drilling a hole thru the entire pin just smaller than the pin diameter. You should then be able to remove them with a hammer and a punch. r if you are trying to save the pins try heating the hinge with a torch then try driving out the pins, but you would probably destroy them anyway & maybe warp some sheet metal. Goods luck, very frustrating job.
Heat with a torch has worked for me, never tried it with the hinge on the car still though. I drilled them out on the p***enger side of my A.
Whoa, while it certainly won't hurt to grind the heads off the hinge pins, you will create more work for yourself than necessary if you try to beat the pins downward as the pins have the knurling on the top. Therefore, when you attempt to drive the pins down you are driving the knurled portion all the way down the hinge And believe me, with all the rust buildup you have in those hinges, you WILL be cursing by the time you are done-if you ever do finish pounding them down! As far as the hinge pin press goes, forget it! I have one in my shop and have never, repeat NEVER, been able to remove a rusty hinge pin. Not once! While the idea seems logical, they just don't work. Save your money. I like the idea of grinding the heads off the pins and then every day adding a good penetrant, such as Kroil, to the pins. Give the bottoms of the pins a bash or two with a nice persuader and go have breakfast. Repeat this procedure every day until the pins start to move-and they will. If you want to speed the process up add a little bit of heat from the Mexican Speed Wrench. Also, as has been talked about on the HAMB previously, try heating the hinge and then melt some candle wax down onto the pin. Be sure to grind off the head of the pin. The candle wax will wick its way down into the hinge pin and should work as good, or better, than the rust penetrant. I can't swear by this one as I haven't tryed it myself. However, I do know several folks who have with great success. Good luck. Be careful when bashing the pins. Trips to the hospital for mashed knuckles are EXPENSIVE! Don't ask!!!
Hey, I've had so-so luck with stuck pins by tack welding a piece of round stock, 'bout the dia. of the top of the hinge pin, to the pin. Now grab this with Vise-grips" wile heatin the pin with a fire wrench. Wack the grips upward (if ya bummed'um from a buddy) with a BFH. Don't nail the door skin with the BFH.
Ill second what someone said about beating them down!! They came in from the top, take them back out THROUGH the top. The knurling is at the top of the pin, so the factory did NOT have to try to beat the knurling through the entire hinge pin hole (only have to beat the kurling in about a 1/4 inch at the top). If you try to beat them out any other way then the factory put them in.....well, your really better have a Snickers cause you going to be there a while as you gall the knurling tracks through the entire hinge pin hole. If you can get a drill on the pin, drilling it out in the center of the pin and beating it from the bottom up is really going to be your best bet!!!! Put the torch on the pin to glowing red and use sharp crisp blows to the pin from the bottom with intent of miving the pin ONLY. You do not want to beat the hinge and warp it. If that fails: I have an IDEA (havent done, but it really cannot hurt to try as you will be grinding the top off anyway)..... Try placing a large nut on top of the head of the pin, and welding the inside of the nut to the top of the pin.....sorta like a rosette weld. Crank the heat up for good penetration. The weld heat will help by expanding the pin when it heats up, and it will shrink the pin itself as it cools (that is why most welds need to be hammered after welding sheetmetal to stretch the metal back out). Use the torch to heat the hinge up nice. Now take a wrench and put on the nut you wleded on the pin and twist while a buddy beats it from the bottom. Hopefully youll break the bond free and itll come out. Dont beat too hard or youll warp the hinge. <----- This is just an idea.... I have never tried it.
Ok, this is the best way I have found to remove a froze pin, if you have already ground the head off this will not work! 1st: weld a 5" piece of all thread to the top of the pin 2nd: slip a 2or3" piece of half inch gas pipe over the all thread 3rd: slip a heavy duty washer over the all thread 4rth: thread a nut down to the washer on the all thread 5th: weld a nut to the very top of the all thread 6th: hold the nut on the top of the all thread and turn the nut that you threaded down to the washer. That will pull a stubborn pin straight out. I had a frozen pin in my willys p/u and I tried everything, but the method I just described pulled it with ease, just make sure you get a good weld to the top of the pin!
you need heat when i took apart my 28 ford it needed lots of heat everywhere have plenty of wet towels ready and a bucket of water place the dripping wet towels on the panel that you dont want the heat to affect and make sure they stay wet to avoid any kind of distortion and now some venting just so you can find that they have f%^$ pinholes all through out and you have to replace most of the s!#& panel anyway bill
Hello Everyone, BREAKING NEWS - BREAKING NEWS - BREAKING NEWS I sooooo "thank you all" that have posted!!! I have been putting penitrating oil on all the hindges most everytime I have walked p***ed the body for the last month. Going through 2 cans. I have been using a punch and a BFH with no luck. Absolutly nothing. I tried searching the HAMB archive for this rusty situation but did'nt find what I was looking for. I recently did a Google search, and all that was coming up was the Eastwood tool. My gut kept saying it probably would break in two seconds. Despite my feeling, I still got a money order for $31.95 and was hours away from mailing it out. The H.A.M.B. Saves the day AGAIN I put it out there for help & got my big break. When I got home today from work I used heat, the punch & the BFH. I put a good amount of heat to the hinge. Used the punch & BFH but no movement. NOTHING I gave up on the first hinge and tryed the second hinge. After doing the above STILL NOTHING. But the door broke free and was able to open. Yes I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. THANKS SOOOOO MUCH!!!!
Just a week or two ago I went through all the fun of removing the hinge pins from my 30 Model A fordor. I did pretty much all the same stuff, ground the heads off the tops and sprayed WD-40 (or, at least the cheapie Wal-Mart stuff I had sitting around!) on the hinges for a week. Kept trying the hammer and punch, but that didn't get anywhere, so I broke out my air chisel with a long punch end...worked great!
Keep those bullet holes, for a little while at least. They lend a certain "rustic" charm to the body. How many are there anyway?
I will share what works very well for me on 99% of the pins I remove. Until I discovered this method I would dread taking the doors off the old clunkers I would drag home. I shared this technique here before...some time ago though. You need a torch and a mid size pair of side cutters. I start by heating the entire hinge area until it starts to turn all red evenly. Use care to shield the sheetmetal from excessive heat. When the hinge is getting red top to bottom move to the top of pin with the torch. Heat pin top just enough so when you squeze it with the side cutters it flattens two sides. Pull side cutters away and go back to the hinge a rewarm it until red. Now grab the pin top with side cutters and try a twisting motion. It will usually rotate just a little. Now begin jacking the pin up with the jaw of the cutter a bite at a time( lever off the top of hinge). As the pin comes up it becomes smaller around. The trick is to get the hinge warm enough and don't get the pinhead so hot that it twist or pops off. I have used this method to remove around 50 doors over the last 20 years. . Steve
Hello ALL, Well OldCarMike, when I rescued Dodge -N- Bullets I had full intenstions of keeping all the bullet holes just as they are. Now that you mention it, I do need to count just how many their are. It does have that gangster feel as 34FordTk posted. I plan to keep the factory MOON roof and its distinguished 76 year old paint job. I will make it a little like the "Lil Coffin" opening up the door post and giving the top a little rake. Anyone have Lil Coffin photos? THIS DODGE WILL SEE THE STREETS AGAIN!!!! "As a daily driver" Today I got another door opened, 2 down & 2 to go. The pins have not moved, but it's a great feeling just to get the doors moving at this time. I hope this topic helps someone else. Thanks for all the support!!
Weld a nut to the top of the pin as others have suggested. The heat from the welding helps free the pin. Then use an impact wrench on the nut. I have found that the impact wrench tends to work better than the same amount of torque with a regular wrench on rusted bolts/pins. Of course, once you turn the pin by what ever means your knurling on the pin may enlarge the hole in the top of the hinge... however, the hole is probably going to be enlarged anyway by the time you get the pins out.
i made a "punch" for my air chisel. a body dolly placed against the top of the hinge [not pin] and a couple of "burps" and the toughest of pins pop right out.
I did what "tb33anda3rd" did but I applied the air hammer to the knuckle area while using a home made C-clamp gismo on the bottom of the pin. One 'burp' and the pin came out.
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