To continue: the p***enger door never really shut nice, the hinge would hit itself and spring open so what I did was installed the door, shut it and stuck a screwdriver between the problem hinge. Then I installed the inner panel and tacked it in place, that pulled the jamb in and now it shuts nice. The top of the door above the top hinge had a large gap so I welded up the edge and ground it down. I was never really happy with this door but after I blasted it in and out and replaced the rusted metal and pieced together inner I am now pleased with the fit. Here are some pictures of what I did and now I am moving to the drivers door to cut the rust out and clean up the inner door bottom. old inner panel Back together Drivers door, more to come later, hopefully I can get it blasted tonight and start the repairs.
Thanks, I've been working on the other door and hope to get it finished up tonight and get the body DP'd (not what you want to think, epoxy)by this weekend and start the body work. Got my headers and even though they are block huggers I had to make my motor mounts over they were in the way. More pics coming soon.
Here is an update. Motor mounts are done and back in, I got the drivers door finished and it fits nice. I have to make the one door gl*** run on the p*** side then I can prime it all and start doing the body work. I sold my roadster body so that money will go a long way towards finishing this car, parts are arriving daily. I still don't know what color I am going to paint it.
Thank you, I'm getting into it now. I didn't want to work in the garage or do anything at all, aches and pains and no gumption, about 3 weeks ago I stopped taking the Statin drug I was on and I have been tearing into it with little pain ever since.
I primed the body this weekend and made the bracket for my mini alternator, made new motor mounts and installed them and the headers. I will be starting the body work soon and hope to have color on in a month, if I can decide on one.
It's been a little while since I posted any progress so here is an update. I've been doing the body work and the doors are ready for primer, the deck lid is about 70% done and the body is about 75% done and ready for primer. I have been piecing together garnish moldings and have one door done and chopped. I bought some 1/4 moldings off of evilbay and took a chance, the seller did not know what they came off of but 1 had 1939 Ford on it. Anyway I made 1 quarter window so far and the back window needs tweaked. When I get done I will have some left over garnish moldings for sale, they are the same width as 34 2 door 1/4 moldings. This is what I started with. It has a lot of slices and takes time to weld it all up It took me about 2 hrs to do this. Ta da!
I did this thirty years ago when chopping a guy's '34 5-window, and he didn't have any quarter moldings. We used some '40 moldings and bingo, saved him a hundred dollars. Probably save yourself a couple hundred doing this now.
39 40 moldings are definitely easier and cheaper to find than 33 34's. Hopefully others will see this and have a way to do theirs.
They appear to be two pivot points on each mount, much like shackles. If that's so, I can't help but see the drivers side mount want to approach verticals while bringing the p***enger side toward horizontal. Maybe it's just the pictures.
Fooled ya. There is a tab welded perpendicular to the horizontal shaft that bolts to the back mounting hole on the block on both sides.
So does this only apply to quarter moldings for 5Ws or are you able to create authentic looking door moldings as well? Steve
Back gl*** is the same but the doors are flat on the bottom with a rib that runs the length. Also the top is the same but narrower so I will have to split mine the whole length, when I get to it I will show pictures.
I had to flip the body upside down because the previous owner painted the bottom over rust so I sandblasted it and redid it. Three evenings wasted sandblasting it, anyway doing the bodywork on the bottom was easier.
The Jalopy Journal
