has anybody ever tried to bleed their drums brakes & the brake bleeder screw brakes off? i have no idea how to go about getting this fixed, especially now that i really screwed it up, i tried to use one of those broken screw extractors and i broke it off inside, should i take it to a machine shop and see what they can do?
Would a new cylinder be available? Don't cheap-out with your brakes. I'd guess a well-clamped cylinder could be drilled out in a drill press or mill, but you'd have to be spot on in the center of the hole, and stop before you get to the bottom.
if it was so rusty as to break the bleeder, AND an ez out, i would imagine the inside ot the cylinder isn't much better - replace it.
I agree. It's brakes. Don't cheap out. You don't say what kind of car, but generally wheel cylinders are dirt cheap. Not worth the time screwing around with the old ones.
Pull the cylinder and try to back it out. U can always get a new cylinder if u can't fix it. Always replace bleeder screws. They are cheap and easy to change out. Save this headache from happening again
unless it is that totally rare one that no one has available at any price the minimum cost of most machine shops will be more than a new wheel cylinder. And as the guys said if it's that rusted on the bleeder screw the rest of it probably isn't much better. If that 50 Chevy 3900 still has stock brakes on it that may be an exception though as they may be hard to find. It looks like Napa shows the stock wheel cylinders http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/R...599001 101950 50014 2014380/Ntt-Brake Systems but they are a bit spendy in comparison to most.
Has anyone NOT ever had a broken bleeder screw? At this point I would try welding a nut to the broken bits. If that at least gets the easy out out then you could try drilling. Then get a new one..
Find a nut, and place it over the tump. Crank up the MIG and weld thst ****er. Grab a spanner and screw it out while still red. Works every time. Oh . Remember to pull out seals and pistons first
its a 1953 chevy 3800, ok ill try some of these, first ill try to bleed it at the line, (thanks black 62) & then if i still am not comfortable with that, my friend has a 1950 chevy 3600 that he changed to mustangII IFS, but he still has his front axle, should i maby buy that? it could be dirt cheep & is probably way less trouble than solving other problems. is this considerable??
As mentioned, brake parts are cheap. I never had any luck bleeding at the line. The line is lower than the bleeder & you never get the air out. I've always taken one wheel cylinder piston out & shoved a paper clip between the wheel cylinder cup & the wheel cylinder at the top and let it gravity bleed.
If the bleeder is rusty and frozen you will likely never get the line off the cylinder without twisting it anyway. Bite the bullit and plan on replacing everything from the rear hose (at least) back. It's not hard or expensive, and when you are done you know you have new parts that will be good for another 10 or 20 years, if not longer. Why make life more difficult than it has to be.
Of all the advice you got, nobody mentioned scrounging a used axle to take brake parts off of. Some people just like to have problems.
I always charge extra when there'a EZout broken off in something. Throw those F'ers away and buy a new wheel cylinder.
I think you would want to get the easy out removed before you want after it with a drill bit. This is a litle late to be of any help but I keep left handed drill bits around for things like broken brake bleeders and other misc small screws and bolts. Works like a champ, you get it started and then once you are drilling you crowd it a bit, it grabs and backes the whatever right out of the hole.
X2 ,it's an option but since the line is under the bleeders it's not the best. I always figure on new cylinders anyway, (Ohio rust belt) maybe you get it loose = yeahhh! maybe you don't = it's ok. Bleeder screws are probably the dumbest designed item on a vehicle. I've just considered them disposable one use items and since then I'm much happier.
Screw Rockauto. Save $5 on a part and pay $7 extra for shipping. Last order I did with them they drop shipped the three parts from three suppliers, and it cost me $14 more in shipping than if I'd gone locally to NAPA or Autozone.
I try REAL hard not to break off threaded fasteners. Salvage repairs are worse than coaxing things apart. Before tugging very hard on bleeders I soak them in PB BLaster, and hit them with a hammer to try to dislodge the rust. Works about 70% of the time. Oxy acetylene persuades 29% of the rest. Yeah, if the bleeder (or any fastener) is seized so hard by rust that it breaks, a teenier EZ out won't be able to apply enuff torque to unscrew it. They used to sell bleeder repair kits, which were a big br*** plug with a pipe thread on the OD, and a bleeder hole machined in it. Looks like they still do. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-13915?seid=srese1&gclid=CPmDnc-dy7gCFcuj4Aodx1YAqw Only makes sense for somebody who can drill and tap the caliper themselves. By the time you pay a shop to do it, you're right up there for the price for a new cylinder, and getting close on many reman calipers.
haha i will, do you think they will have the proper wheel cylinders? if so i have never done this before, how do you go about doing that?
bleeding at the brake line will not completely get the air out as the bleeder is placed at the highest point on purpose. I don't understand asking for advice and then looking to ignore it.
thanks for those, haha i diddent actually mean i was trying to bleed my brakes at the line, i knew it would not work, & this last page & a half would probabbly be unnessisary, however i got strep throat, followed by my wisdom teeth becoming infected & have not eaten anything but water & a smoothy for over 7 days, so what im saying is im not exactly feeling up to going into town, about a an hour drive from my backwoods home, so i was planning on replacing the wheel cylinders from the start 6 days ago but have not been able to.
The Jalopy Journal
