Projects 1955 International Harvester R100 Pickup

I just picked this up yesterday in trade. I am not quite sure what to do with it yet. The engine and tranny are in pieces in the bed, so keeping it stock is kind of out the window. I was thinking about putting my favorite light truck engine of all time, the Ford 300 straight 6, in there. After measuring and looking for engines I noticed that the 73-79 f100 has roughly the same wheelbase and track width of the IH, so now I am thinking a full frame swap with a swb F100 that already has the 6 in it. Then I'll have my favorite truck engine with my favorite truck platform, but with this unique body on it. And since this Binder needs pretty much everything anyway, it seems like this might be a better option. It will give me the more modern and reliable stuff I want and I can actually get parts for it anywhere. Anyone see a problem with this plan or have a better suggestion?

 

I think a frame swap is a great idea.

 

I would think you would ne headed in the right direction. If you track is really close you can make up the difference with wheel off set. Looks like a fairly clean old binder. What's wrong with the stock frame ? I prefer a stock frame under old trucks but I also understand building on a budget. Good luck with the build.

 

I just dove into a '55 R-110 myself.

Cool and somewhat unique trucks among their competitors.

I struggled with the decision of hacking mine up at first but after seeing what others have done around here it was a no brainer. However mine is a little more complete. As in, engine / trans are all installed.

Check out Ratpin - he has the nicest '54 R-100 I have ever seen. Not to discredit the others out there (Which there are some very nice ones)

I'm looking forward to seeing where you go with this! Good Luck. Hope we can swap stories or tech info.

-Tyler

 

I have an '80 300 six 4 Spd., AC, PS, and etc. No cash, No trade move with a dolly, damage pass side. Help me with removal of front fenders and radiator support and it is yours. Catch. it is in Orlando area.

 

That looks like Forest Service green. I like it!

Anything that gets that truck rolling down the road gets my approval. I too, like to keep the original frame, but that doesn't mean that's always the best. Congrats for not believing it has to have a v-8. My favorite motor for a truck that size is the Cummins 4bt. The diesel needs tall gears and lots of sound deadening. At least now it has been mentioned and you can proceed to put YOUR favorite motor in there.

 

Cool truck. I say any project especially on a budget, motor swaps are great. More power ,easy to get parts. It's even better your not going sbc, the universal swap! You could always put a IH badge on the inline fords valve cover. Either way get it rolling!

 

Yeah, I'm not a big SBC fan or a fan of Chevy much in General. For full-size pickup trucks its Ford or Dodge. If I DID go V8, it would be an LA 318, but I really think a hot 6 in this guy would be ideal. I am looking for donor vehicles now. I figure I can get a donor that I can drive for a little while and fix up mechanically at first, then when I'm ready I can do the body swap. I'm trying to do this project for $3k or less so I will be selling all the bits and pieces that I don't use along the way. If anyone needs any of the original IH stuff for their Binder, let me know, its all there.

 

Your truck is not a 1953 but rather a 1955 R100. 1953's has smaller door windows and 2 rear windows. 1955 was a cross over year before the new S series so some of the R series trucks used the later S series cab with one rear window and larger door windows.

 

You are going about it the right way however your truck is more likely a '55 as it has the single rear window, I own a couple of R series trucks and both my '53s have double. I am also in the midst of building a truck on a newer F350 frame ( bought it for the diesel engine and 5 speed). My only complaint about the frame swap has to do with the clutch and brake pedals being in a different place, I do not want the damn ugly things on the firewall!!!!

 

Hmm, a 55 you say? I was wondering why no other 53s had the big back window. I better get a look at the VIN plate and the title which was included and says 53. The title was already made out to a different guy than I bought it from anyway, so I wasn't sure how useful it would be. Seems like I need to find a title for a 55 instead of 53 if it indeed is one. Anyone able to help? A North Carolina title would be the best... for display in the garage of course!

 

somewhere or other the title got switched for sure with the year. Yours is definitely a '55 another give away is the push button outer door handles.

 

Something you might want to look for is the line-set-ticket you might find it on top of the glove compartment (if it is there)

 

here's a good shot of the rear of my truck

if you look closely to the left you can see the scrapped F350 cab in pieces.

 

Good grief, you got enough leaf springs in that pack?!?

 

I looked at the model/vin # on the driver's door edge and it says:

R-102 251XX

Anyone know how to decode it?

Also, the vin DOES match the title and the title says 1953, with the original title issued on 10-4-53. Strange. I am guessing maybe the vin plate has been swapped out? Any other possibilities?

 

Better get the paperwork figured out first,it would really be a Bitch to get it running and have no way to get tabs for it.

 

North Carolina has the weirdest rules about titling. Basically, without a valid title I have to get the truck running and at least moving under its own power FIRST, then apply for a bond, then get some DMV dweeb to come check out the truck and make sure its not stolen or whatever, and finally they MIGHT deem me worthy of a newly issued title. Oh yeah, and then 3 YEARS later I get the bond money back.

 

We pulled an IH six banger out of a 65 that got the Nova clip and ladder bar/coilover treatment. The engine runs great and what looks like an SM 465 4sp tranny is quiet. I think your going the right direction with modernization but if you want to keep the price really low the whole driveline out of the Binder can be had for what sounds like a flock of baby chicks price---cheap, cheap, cheap. Even further away in the Dalls area which is a bummer.

 

The serial tags are just held on by slot-head screws . next thing id suggest is check the serial number against the number stamped on the frame. it is on the driver side next to the front spring hanger.
weird thing is according to a page i have saved, shows that serial number being issued to r-100-102's after January 1st 1955.(attached) which makes sense for the cab and everything but the title. maybe the title was manufactured later with misinformation.

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Wow, great info. Thanks so much. It was last titled in the 80's so I'm sure it was easier to fudge stuff or get things completely wrong back then.
In any case, I found the number of the guy who the title was made out to originally back in 2001. I am supposed to be able to meet with him at the DMV soon to get it all in my name. After close inspection it sure looks like the original vin plate based on the mounting and the original paint. AND this vin it does match the title's number, so for now I am just going to roll with it. The strange thing is that the only other 50's vehicle I've owned was a 1953 Chevy AD that was titled as a 55. We figured out that it had been a dealer demo that wasn't titled until 55, but that kind of thing doesn't work in reverse without a time machine.

 

Thanks for the great offer, but by the time I go through the expense of getting down there and back it probably won't save me any money over buying local. I really appreciate the generosity!

 

I know, it was a service truck when I bought it less welder, slip tank, air compressor, and oilfield tools.

 

I build one of these things a few years back...

I did a mustang II from a 55-57 chevy pickup for the front and a four link in the rear with bags all around.... and typical SBC for power.

It turned out great, but I will say nothing was easy....LOL

The frame swap might be faster, easier... and I'm sure cheaper, anyway Good Luck keep us posted on your progress.

 

Dont throw away that trans with the overdrive, they fit about anything.

 

biggest problem with that truck is you own it and I don't...love those trucks, specially in the shortbed version. Good luck with it.

 

If ya use the front motor mounts a SMC will bolt in with no mods. The holes in the chassis are perfict for this swap.

 

SMC? Did you mean SBC=Small Block Chevy?
I really want to avoid anything chevy if I can. Not a big fan. If It WAS going to be a GM V8 in there it would be a Cad 500, Pontiac 400, or maybe even a Buick 350.
This truck won't be for going to shows, it will be strictly for work as a shop truck. So, I want it to be able to do all the work I ask of it while still getting acceptable gas mileage. a 77-79 Ford F100 or f150 with the 6, swb, 4sp granny, PS/PB, no A/C, 2wd OR 4wd is what I am now on a search for. Hopefully something with low miles and no title! (Low miles for obvious reasons and no title because that means CHEAP!) I'm patient and in no hurry. I know the right one will come along sooner or later.

 

I appreciate a clean firewall, but pedals through the floor are one of the things I like least about old trucks. Floor pedals are harder to seal out weather and noise. Most of my trucks go offroad. Too often the pedals bind in the floor openings when the cab and frame get twisted up. That sometimes makes stopping and going challenging on rough terrain.

 

Clean firewall? Not really a concern of mine. I mean i want the engine bay to look good and not have any unnecessary clutter, but beyond that this truck is going to be put to WORK, not simply be an object to admire. As such, I need dual reservoir power brakes with a big ass booster/master cylinder sticking out of the firewall.