http://www.egge.com/site/?d=48&dt=1&SubCategoryId=2&make=CHEVROLET&rpp=10 Looks like $346.00 Part # EP2148-8
Theres better piston manufacturers out there. KB, Diamond, etc. Standard small block stuff, easy to get. Good luck.
Just use a stock hi-perf style forged, 327 piston, with a 5.85 inch rod. Better piston than the cast EGGE one, longer rod for slightly more dwell time at TDC, and less cylinder wall loading with the longer rod also. Cheaper, or no more really than "stock" level parts. JMO. Butch/56sedandelivery.
Just tryin' to figure out the cheapest way out to do up a 302... I have 2 sets of 305 4bbl heads.. Both have 1.84" intake valves and the 1.50" exhaust... 1 pair is from '76 and the other from '77....
Egge is where you go when no one else makes your piston. They're not where you go when it's a SBC and everyone in the world makes your pistons. jack vines
Have you beeped the cylinder walls? Lingenfelter used to advise 0.200"-0.240" minimum wall on the major thrust sides of the bores and 0.090" to 0.110" on the minor thrust sides after bore and hone. Major thrust sides are inboard on the driver's side of the block and outboard on the p***enger's side of the block. Minor thrust sides are outboard on the driver's side and inboard on the p***enger's side. You will be taking out 0.0625" on the walls, so make sure you have enough iron in the walls to begin with. If the walls are movin' around, the motor ain't gonna like it much. Cooling the beast is another concern if the walls are thin. When the piston moves up and down the bore, the rings don't glide eloquently like you might think. They skid and jerk along in little short stutters. This jerking movement produces sound waves that are able to penetrate thin cylinder walls and separate air from the water in the cooling medium. The little air bubbles then cling to the outside of the cylinder walls in the water jacket, preventing cooling water from reaching the cast iron to carry away heat. Smokey Yunick used to cut blocks apart and install gl*** so that he could see what was going on in the motor as it ran and he discovered this thinwall problem. Nobody before him could figure out why a motor would run hot when it had been subjected to a large overbore. Ol' Smokey figured it out.
I'll be hunting down a (low mileage) sj 327 block for this build.... And of course, a steel 283 crank...
Is there some cl*** thing which limits you to 302"? I get queries like this all the time and am amazed how many guys don't know the 350" is the least expensive of all SBCs to build. jack vines
I would call .200 minimum VERY conservative...probably regret saying anything, but there it is. Dueces, I have one, as far as I'm concerned, that was a real "horseshoes" moment, but finding a std. bore sj 327 is like finding an untouched duece three window. Finding one that doesnt need to be bored is like finding that same three window in original paint at a yard sale for $500.
This sentence, in conjunction with the word "Egge" makes me shudder. but its your funeral... I checked KB, the biggest overbore they list the 283 pop-tops in is .060, and no 302 pistons. Have you considered shopping for a used set of std. bore TRW L2209F's? You will find those long before you find a sj 327 that can be built at std. bore, IMO. Its not that easy finding one that can be built at .030. Seriously, if I wanted to build a 3" stroke, 4" bore sj motor, I'd be rounding up a few dime a dozen late 283 blocks, and spending a couple bucks sonic testing them. Odds are, most late 283's will be "good to go". If you select a late one,You will probably hit paydirt on the first block.
Very true. Lots of good reasons to build something other than a 350, but price sure isnt one of them.
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