COE Dough Boy's 47 Ford COE Build

Started to work on the front suspension to accept the new air bag setup. These are the parts that we used to make it happen.


First we leveled out the stock shock cup with table with the height that we needed the new cup to be. It worked out that we needed it to be 1.5" deeper then the stock cup.


Made a jig to transfer the cir***ference that we needed to cut out of the a-arm. Looks a little archaic but worked out great.


Chris cutting out the a-arm. Have to have a action shot once in a while


Not much left . It's okay it all works out in the end. The air bags max out is 9.1" went with a 10" cir***ference for the clearance.


The new cups made and ready to get welded in.


Part two coming.

 

AS usual, look real good!
Don't forget to put some holes in the airbag "well" so water and road debris can fall out the bottom.

 

So cool of a truck

 

grab some of those 1/4" drive u-joints at the next swap meet....even the el-cheapo ones would work.



Are there stops inside the motor mechanism?

 

No stop in the motor. The plan is to use two adjustable micro switches one for full open and one for closed.

 

Interesting cowl vent motor idea. What are the motors out of? Any chance your buddy made any EXTRA br*** fittings for you to share?

Actually, I dont know why you guys don't just fix the alignment issue by simply relocating the cowl vent doors... dang, at the pace you guy's are moving, it should only take about 20 minutes...for the pair. HA!

 

Nice project. Love the workmanship going into it. One suggestion for you. Where the rear cab mounts are boxed in, I would make some sort of way for water to escape or else you are going to be asking for trouble with the ac***ulation of dirt and water in the little windows cut into the mounts.

 

Here is part two of the front air bag upgrade. Used 1/2" rod on the sides of the 10" tubing to join it to the a-arm.


The finished product after welding, grinding, and some sanding. Had to add on a new bracket for the shock mount. Will also need to add a new bump stop and bracket for the sway bar.


Time to start on the upper cup that will hold the top part of the bag.


Needed to raise the bag out of the upper pocket for clearance issues. Used 6" tubing for this. Trim it down to sit flat over the stock rivets.


Top plate that will hold the bag.


The pieces put together and ready for a test fit. Inside is 1/2" sleeves that bolts through the top of the main carriage.


This is about the ride height that we think the truck will ride at. And yes the unit is pictured upside down.


This will be the truck at its lowest point. Looks like the new setup is going to work out as planed.

 

As usual, Nicely done!

 

I bought mine as a kit for a cowl vent setup and modified it to work for our setup. It was way over priced. I later found a company that just sells the servo motor by itself for around 50 dollars. The web site is www.mcmaster.com/#electric-motors/=mr64ck Look under compact DC gear motors.

 

Starting to layout the custom sun visor. Used 3/8" rod to form up the structure.




Covered the structure with cardboard to make the template for the sheet metal.




Getting ready to cut out the metal. Added a 1/2" to the pattern for a hem seam.


After some work in the english wheel.




Tip the lip on both sides to form the hem seams. Tip past 90 degrees then hammered down to finish it up. Next Chris used a mechanical brake with a 2 1/2" dye to form the sides of the visor. Sorry I got caught up in the moment and forgot to take the pictures of some of the last steps.


Need to made the mounting hardware and do some fine tuning and that should finish up the visor.

 

It's been awhile...

 

Chris built the new hardware that will attach the visor to the truck and finished dialing in the rest of the final fit. Here he drilled and tapped the center post to accept a screw that he made with a post so that it would connect to the hardware on the visor.




These are the right and left side of the visor that fit inside the drip rail that are tapped on the bottom and then screwed in through the bottom of the drip rail.


After trying out two column drop brackets and two different kind of universal joints we were able to get the steering setup all worked out. We used a steer clear to help out on the setup. Next we will make the bracket that will hold the steer clear stationary.


Used a bearing through the fire wall to support the shaft that goes to the steer clear from the column.





This is the bracket that supports the dash and the column drops.


The two column drops that we used and we also used a universal vibration dampener joint instead of a rag joint.

 

I like the use of the steerclear. This jaw dropping work, love this thread.

 

The new bracket for the steering is complete. Will also be running the brake pedal off the same bracket.


The bracket is welded between the two cross brace for a super strong hold.


Started to make a template for some interior parts for the cab. Will use the template for a fibergl*** mold that will be covered with material that will match the seats.




Chris started on the brake pedal mounting. The pivot rod of the brake goes though the steering bracket and is welded 380 degrees and has its own bracket that is welded to the cross brace.


The master cylinder is mounted on the frame rail. The first mount is made and will be making one more. The mount still needs to be finished and beautified. Chris had a chance to finished up the brake setup today. I had taken the day off but will take pictures tomorrow of the finished setup and post them.

 

Chris is a true artist !

 

I agree and thank you for the kind comment.

 

"Nice work" hardly begins to describe it; that steering setup and related metal work is
truly beautiful! Artist indeed!

 

Dude, you have some serious metal shaping skills. Your kind make me sick (with jealousy)! Keep up the great work. I am learning some serious stuff from posts like this.

 

Some of the best COE's are commercial rigs - But seems like a shame - this is show quality work.... I guess you will just have to sell pizza at every car show possible....

 

That is truly the essence of tighty whitets... wow awesome!!!!

 

A better picture of the brake bracket. Needed to notch out the brace to make room for pedal travel.


The brake pedal all back together and notch is all fill in.


Both bracket finished and push rod installed.


Push rod is adjustable for different pedal heights.


Better look at the two brackets that hold the master cylinder.

 

I live what you're doing with this.

Subscribed.

 

WOW...is that a sano installation!!!! Beautiful workmanship!!!

 

That is the cl***iest, bestest looking visor I have ever seen.

Bravo!

Now... put another tab on that brake pedal so it's in double sheer.



Sam

 

Ho Lee ****.

This is an epic build thread, if ever I've seen one.

Love the old COE trucks, glad to see another one not only saved, but put to good use where people will see and appreciate it.

Awesome attention to detail.

Indeed.

In 300 posts, the one nit I would pick is that brake pedal pivot mount.

I wouldn't mount something that important and highly stressed in single shear.

Wouldn't take that much more fab work to extend the pivot axle and add another mount tab out on the end there.

 

Sam and CoolHand, can you please explain this for simple guys like me?



'27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734383

 

Here is a simple illustration on single and double shear. If I am wrong in ***uming your question was "what double shear is", please disregard.

Double shear distributes the load evenly a**** two supports and not using the bolts as a lever.

 

Exactly.

Double shear bracketry loads the bolt in simple shear only.

Single shear bracketry loads the bolt in both shear AND bending, which significantly increases the load on the bolt, thereby increasing the chances that it will either fail outright, or fatigue over time and fail.

For a lot of things, you can get away with it, but like I said before, a brake pedal pivot is not one of those things. IMO at least.

Should be quite easy to fix though, especially for a fabricator of this fellow's skill.

As my old man would say, "Ain't no hill for a stepper!"

 

Perfect Russ, thank you!

My '27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383