How much is a running '49 8CM worth?

I have a '49 model Mercury 8CM flathead V8 in running condition. I acquired it in a trade for some other junk that I had. It was passed on to me in unknown condition, but the guy said he suspected it might run. Well, I got it running and it runs pretty damn good. It has a tag on the block from a machine shop in San Antonio, TX indicating that it has been overhauled at some point. It also has a brand new Chevrolet bellhousing adapter with special flexplate and a new mini starter. I already know what the adapter with all the associated hardware is worth - but what I don't know is how much a running Merc flattie is worth.

I'm not expecting someone to get excited and give me some "Barrett-Jackson" figure - I'm looking for an honest, real world value. I have a number in my head what I think its worth, but I'm not sure. I am probably going to sell it and I want to make sure I list it for a realistic price.

Here's a video of it running: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7BzVM-LyVM

That was just the very first start attempt. I did run it some more after that and it really runs good. Starts easy, etc. Its missing the generator.

 

1000-1200 bucks. Maybe more with the adapter and flexplate.

 

The adapter with the crank spacer/adapter and the flexplate by itself runs $610, new. This one is brand new. It also has a brand new mini starter on it.

 

I'm going to offer $2,000. But that is really meaningless because you are going to build a rod around it. Aren't you?

 

$1200, so he can bargain you up a bit.

 

Nope. I think old flatheads are neat n all...but I really don't have any interest in using it for a powerplant in something I intend to drive. I generally like to be able to scare myself (or my passenger) whenever I get the notion...prolly ain't gonna happen behind a flathead.

 

Bump for the morning crowd - I was hoping for a little more input.

 

That does not have a Merc intake or carb, it may be a rebuild with CM heads on it. Runs nice, no smoke, good engine. Keep it high and dry.

 

The most common problem for flatheads are cracks. Until you know whether it is crack free or repairable, you can't peg a value on it.

 

I have suspected that as well - there was no carb on it when I got it, I put that carb on there. It's a Holley 94.

However it could also be a Merc with a Ford style intake on it - works both ways. I already know for a fact that it has been overhauled - so there's just no telling.





Since it has the wide belt drive - I am assuming it's a '49.

 

Your correct about '49 Fords and Mercs having wide belts, but so did '48-'53 trucks, and your engine has truck pumps and one truck upper water pipe. The only way to know for sure the stroke and block condition is to pull the heads. I wouldn't pay more than the asessories are worth for any flathead without knowing the stroke and visual block inspection, or at least some running history, IMO. Good luck.

 

Aren't those pickup pumps with the feet on them like that? Anyway, it doesn't matter what it came out of originally, does it have a 4" crank?

If it could idle for a half hour or more without overheating, you would probably be able to sell it as generally "crack-free". I'd say $800 if you can't prove it has a 4" crank, and $1000 if you can.

 

Yeah I got no idea what it originally came out of or what it was in before it found its way into the roadster it was in when I got it. I have considered removing the cylinder heads for inspection - and I may do that. I wish the spark plug hole was over part of the cylinder...so I could measure the stroke.

 

Yes those are truck pumps.

As for idling without overheating, I had a cracked block that ran for years without overheating. It had less than 60 lbs compression in two cylinders, ran smoothly, and it didn't overheat.

Crack-free is crack-free, it needs to be pressure tested to be absolutely sure. Cracked blocks are still valuable if the cracks are repairable.

 

Where do they most commonly crack? Pics?

 

Virtually all flatheads have cracks in the deck at the center bolt holes. These cracks are not concerning because the head gasket (and some thread sealer) seals them up.

Cracks are common from the center (Siamese) exhaust runners to the valve seats, which then sometimes travel to the cylinder walls. These are fixed by pinning, replacing valve seats, and sleeving cylinders.

Cracks are less common (but usually fatal) in the pan rails or the crank webbing.

 

I will probably pull the heads off of it sometime in the next day or two. Its been so damned hot here lately that its hard to get motivated to do much outside.