Flat Tire- Lowered shoebox

Question -

I've been told to change a flat tire ; you have to deflate spare, install it and inflate it, once bolted on a lowered shoebox ( and possibly other cars) ;

Would a solution/ option to this be - to open up the wheel well, then install large bubble type fender skirt to cover the opening?

** What method do you use to change a flat tire?

 

I have the wife do it...

 

I have to raise the opposite side of axle as far as I can than it will allow me to squeeze the tire in

 

Like women wearing skin tight pants and super high heels,having a lowered vehicle can be uncomfortable...

 

I just pray I don't have a flat.

 

I just jack mine up at the frame and the axle drops enough so i can get the tire off. If you don 't run stupid wide tires, this should never be a problem.

 

Sometimes it's not fun to be cool. I also use the raise the opposite wheel method to remove a wheel.

 

Not that uncomfortable!!! from my angle on your answer

 

My 55 sedan has stock offset wheels and three inch lowering blocks. To change the right rear tire I have to jack up the car, remove the nuts from the shock, then place a small jack between the leaf and the frame to jack the axle down. I buy very good tires so this has never happened out on the road, yet. I carry an old rug to lay on in the dirt.

 

can anyone tell me what the difference is in wide tires and stupid wide tires ?

 

my sons falcon wagon lays frame ( iquess that's what they call it). and to get the rear tires off you gotta do the same damn thing. then you have to fight to get the tire out of the wheel well.

 

The difference is in 'inches'. It's a ratio of proportion discernable only to the 'wide tire critics'.

 

I just abandon my car and get a new one when I get a flat.

 

Stupid wide is a tire that doesn't fit on a car properly. One that affects the serviceability of said vehicle. One that just plain looks wrong on a certain type of vehicle.....

 

My current tires require me to slightly deflate the tire a few pounds and really shove it up into the wheel opening. its the bulge in the sidewall that touches. (not happy about this but the tires are paid for now.)

 

Winner winner chicken dinner!

 

Hell mines easy to get off all you have to do is jack up both sides then put a jack under the diff disconnect the coil overs and the top links of the four link drop the whole *** end and there you are not a problem.But that's Hot Rodding Right ?

 

That's the reason why I carry AAA.
To change a tire on my '60 (and my old shoebox '50), I have to jack it all the way up, put it on stands and then let the axle down. I don't want to do that on the road....

 

Jack the truck up, put jack stands under frame, release jack, let axle come down. Deflate the tire all the way, still struggle slightly. It's not bad with a narrower spare. But taking tires off and on to work on something is a pain. But it's a cool look. Right?


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I tried to take that into consideration when i built mine, i hope it works. 3 inch lowering blocks, 225x15 tires, 6 in rim. First put your cover alls on. Unbolt the bubble skirts. Jack the car up under the frame in front of the spring. With the rear hangingi might be able to get the wheel off. If not the air shocks will stretch things out a few more inches. I considered the rear brake flex hose has length enough to do this. Shouldn't take longer than 45 minutes

 

Throw it in the gutter, and go buy another


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Flat tires are definitely traditional, now even a bottom of the line tire is good for 30,000 miles and if you can stand the ride there are 90,000 mile tires. Last flat tire I had was a good 15 years ago blew a sidewall belt. I always carry a can or two of flat fix as most flats today are punctures. Many new cars no longer have spares but some kind of flat fix. Biggest tire issue I've had are leakers and a bottle of Slime took care of that.

 

You and me both! On my 50 with 4 inch blocks, its a *****! un-bolt u bolt,shock bracket, ect.ect. Thats why on my 51 i bagged the *** end!, Can pull the skirts, air it up all the way, jack up the frame if i need to............ But wait i never carry a spare!

 

Aaa

 

bumper jack !
use a good tall one(say from a mid 60 mopar with a sling bumper hook padded if needbe)
remember to block all opposite end wheels fore and aft

 

I used to have that problem, needed to take shocks off to get enough separation from fender well and brake drum, using a bumper jack. that allowed tire removal.

When doing a major rebuild of the drivetrain on my '51 a few years back, I narrowed the axle enough to get needed tire clearance (between drum and wheel well) and got wheels with a proper offset to maintain the tread width. Now, I can jack up the car with a scissor jack under the frame and "easily" change a tire.

 

I agree, but its also very appealing.

I have a '54 Dodge with the same issue. I have rims that are off set, and hope the problem disappears when I mount the stock steelies I picked up.

 

Run On Flat tires are designed to perform when deflating or even once deflated. They allow you to drive at a top speed of 50 mph for up to 50 mi. to help you reach a safe place or service area.
http://www.goodyear.com/en-US/tires/category/run-flat

 

btt

 

My 51' is fairly low in the back, I jack it up on the frame rail 1st with a floor jack then I put a smaller bottle jack between the bottom frame rail and the top of the leaf spring pack opening it enough to wiggle the tire out. Usually works good for me when I need to remove the rear tires!