Hey guys. Gotta 55 f100 with a Gibbons/Cordoba set up on it. Decided to completely go through it and replace bushings, drop spindles, etc. Question I have is do I need to box the frame for this IFS and does anyone have the same setup with some pics or a set of original instructions. Thanks Eddie C
Depending on how it mounts to the frame rails, I'd at least box the front rails. If your pulling the body,and want too, box the whole frame. It's only going to make it stronger.
I think I might box the front of the frame if your installing independent suspension,,the frame on the truck is pretty heavy material so I wouldn't think boxing the entire frame would be necessary. HRP
If you're going to strip the frame box the whole thing. I wish I had done it on my 56 f100. When I was building mine I was told the frame needed to flex. Now older and wiser, I say box it. Does Fatman, Morrison, and all other frame manufacturers sell open channel frames? No. A bare frame is easy to box, especially an early truck frame.
Thanks guys. I'm leaving the cab on, but ill be sure to box the rest Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
New to the forum, and have been looking for a few guy that have boxed their frames as well. Hoping to get a start on my 52 F1 this winter. What is a good thickness of plate to use for boxing the frame ?
I installed a Dakota IFS into my 1960 f100 and the new crossmember came with a partial boxing to assist fitting it into my frame. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=366906 During that process I came across an article posted in an old car magazine by a Mechanical Engineer who suggested that when installing IFS into old pickup trucks it was adviseable to box and stiffen up as much of the frame as possible to ensure flex was minimised for several reasons. The most important was to actually let the IFS actually do what you were expecting it to do and not the frame. Secondly, as in some builds folks remove the next member under the transmission/clutch area in Fords at least which he seemed to think was vitally important and should not be removed unless it was being replaced with a stronger more appropriate member. Again in Fords, since they at least in my model did not have a tranny crossmember that a tranny cross member was of great value and again aid resistance to flexing if installed with this purpose in mind. He also seemed to think that in the case of some IFS systems being used for old pickups that because there origins were from cars and not trucks, that they were in some cases a little too light to be installed without additional gussetting to the area between the outside edge of the frame and the wheel. He was particularly concerned about this issue with Jaguar IFS setups. From our point of view some folks build these pickups and they basically never work as hauling vehicles any more and hence some of these issues can be dismissed. However, in my case where I particularly wanted my f100 to still have a hauling and long distance driving capability, I took all of his comments serious during my build and proceeded to fully box my frame from the radiator all the back to the rear springs, modified the clutch region cross member so it would clear my new engine and also installed a tranny member and felt comfort in the fact that I also installed a heavy duty U-haul towing hitch which to my mind also acts and an extra member down back. My project is now finished and I have got to say drives a hell of a lot better than the old setup and I expect that the frame flexes very little now. I hope this goes some way to help you chose what is best for your project needs...
I put a Gibbon/ Cordoba IFS in my F-100 about 12 years ago..I LOVED IT! Best riding, stopping and handling improvement ever made to a '53-'56 F-100 IMHO!! The Gibbons cross member is built like a brick bunk house...All the weight is carried by the cross member...The additional cross member used to anchor the torsion bars goes clear across the frame back behind the transmission, so there is no added stress on the frame...I see no need to box or reinforce the frame further.. Keep in mind, with a torsion bar suspension the ride height can be adjusted to a great extent by simply rotating or adjusting the torsion bars with the stock Cordoba torsion adjuster arms and a screw.....I could get it ridiculously low or ridiculously high just by turning these adjusters....I see NO NEED for dropped spindles.... You will LOVE the way it steers and handles when you are finished.. I don't have my original instructions...It was so easy as to be comical...there IS A SPECIAL BOLT THAT ALIGNS THE WHOLE THING---USING THE BRAKE HOSE HOLE!!! Just a very short, fat bolt..after that is in just drill everything else and/or weld it in.
Thanks for all the replies. Here is a look at the frame after I partially boxed it and epoxied it. Starting to reassemble things now. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
No offense, but I'd grind them welds down and get a friend who can weld to come burn them in, or pay a pro. I mean, its only your suspension relying on them. I see a lot of them that have a huge crown, which is a sign of little to no penetration
None taken. The only weld I did were the plates. The PO welded the cross member. However the crossmember is actually all bolt in. The welds were just reassurance. That's why I was not too worried about those. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Looking at the 2 different Frames and both boxing jobs. All that's been done to both is that you made a ridged section that stops at the end of the box plate creating a specific spot for them to flex. That is where both of them will crack given short time. Also the one shows No factory trans cross member. We learned a long time ago that's not a smart move. Just look at the front cab mount. Now think leverage and road vib's. All that just where you ended the boxing plate. I have already seen those results and it's not good. Come on guys, think about the complete chassis not just pieces. The Wizzard
Thanks for the input wizard. Just so you know I have made a crossmember for the front cab mounts to replace the original tyranny mount that was removed. Also, I would wonder if all the trucks with IFS that boxed the front section of the frame per the manufacture recommendations will also experience cracked frames. I just don't see why I need a fully boxed frame to run a basic SBC. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Smoke Eater; Good job replacing the cross member at the Cab Mount point. No you do not need to box anything to run a small block chevy. However looking at the top photo of what I believe is your truck frame between the boxing plate and motor mount stand on both the top and bottom frame flange it looks like a notch has been cut out leaving maybe a 1/3rd section of the stock frame. I'll bet you'll fix that also. I put frame boxing right up there with mixing up Hyd. brake parts. Most builders really don't understand it. No homework, No forethought. Once we understand the after market industry is in the business of selling parts and not necessarily what we need or even work well, us home builders would probably do a better job. The Wizzard
That was going to be my next question. That notch in the frame was part of the installation for the gibbons crossmember in order to fit the power steering gearbox. It was done by the PO. What can be done to restrengthen this area? Looking today I have just enough space to possibly box it in. However it will be hard for me because of the curves. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
That crossmember is also built like. Brick shit house. Would that help to strengthen it Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The Cross Member is not what's going to fail you. Only seeing part of what's there and not being impressed with any of it, it's hard to give you good advice on how to repair that spot. If that's necessary for steering box clearance is there a chance you could go to the outside of the frame rail and do something there? What kind of steering box is used? The Wizzard
A chrysler. It's out of a 78 cordoba. I've put about 50k miles On the PO set up with no issues. I'm just trying to go through and fix what needs fixin Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Isn't Cordoba the same unit as a Volarie, Diplomat, Aspen? And if you have put 50K on it as is what could be wrong? Just because the Craftsmanship isn't good looking don't mean the Job itself is bad. I will say I've installed several of them using Stock K member and have never had to make a notch in the frame flange like what I see in the photo. The Wizzard
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