I just ordered the bases to convert the Rochester 2G carbs for my Olds engine to tripower type carbs. I am also going to rebuild the 3 carbs while I am at it and would like to tint them so they look new. What product have you guys found that gives the most realistic tint to Rochester carbs? I looked at Eastwood but the picture I saw there looked a little phoney. Are there any multi step processes that give good results and a long lasting finish ? Something that resembles the original gold color. I did a search and couldn't find anything. Thanks. Don
Never tried it, but here's a thread on Alodine I remembered from a while back. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=490718
I do the alodine thing. I prefer the powder form over the premix as sold by that airplane supply place. Heres' an example.
If your interested,I have the original Ford formula for their concoction they called "bright dip". It was used for all of the carb coloring back in the day. Its some nasty shit including a coupla different acids. Not exactly the stuff that you want on your Wheaties in the morning. But if you want the formula,send me a P.M. Oldmics
The goldish color is a chromate coating. Like on the zinc plated hardware you see at the store that is gold color. You can't buy the good old stuff (hexavelent chroium is the active ingredient), but you can probably get trivalent chromium version. Go to a plating or chemical supply and ask for chromate conversion coating. Hex chrome is carcinogenic, so that is why no longer used or available for most part. You may also talk to a zinc plating shop and ask if they would just dip your carb bodies once you have them absolutely clean. For a few bucks they could do it and you would not have the problem of purchasing. Carb bodies are die cast zinc.
I painted mine with Krylon 2906 gold paint. Then I clearcoated them with Rustoleum clear engine enamel #248944. So far so good and they look just fine. The clear is supposed to be gasoline resistant.
I remember rebuilding the carbs on my tri power......I ran out of enthusiasm long before I ran out of carbs!
I used the Eastwood paint on my carbs, been on them for two years, still look like the day I did them. If your carbs do not leak should not get gas on them right? The only problem I had was not enough ventilation when I painted them. What a high that was.
HERE IT IS, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!! The instructions with the "Bright Dip" state clearly: "Do not attempt to brighten die cast or steel parts or partial assemblies with this solution." It was for use on brass castings!!! 2 parts Sulphuric Acid 66 degrees 1 part Nitric Acid 38 degrees Teaspoonful of table salt to each gallon of solution Put Sulphuric Acid into jar, then Nitric Acid, then salt, and let cool from six to eight hours. Castings to be brightened should be boiled three or four minutes in Caustic Soda Solution (6 to 8 ounces per gallon). Then dip directly into "Bright Dip", dipping in and out quickly. Rinse acid off in clear, cold water and five second, quick dip in the "Bright Dip". Rinse thoroughly and dip in HOT water, then swing until dry. AGAIN: DO NOT USE ON DIE CAST, BRASS ONLY. Jon.
A more modern dip for use with zinc alloy, as mentioned by 38Chevy454, used a combination of three acids, one of which was chromic acid. I don't think you can buy chromic acid without a permit. I no longer have this formula, and would not post it if I did still have it. Even if you can buy the chromic acid, not a good idea. This stuff is really nasty. Think about all the chroming shops that were closed down about 20 years ago. Messing with chemicals without the safety background and/or safety equipment is a good way to end your association with the hobby (or worse). There are companies out there that will do this work (the Holley Custom Shop is one). This is one area best left to the professionals. Jon.
I use yellow chromate from Caswell. beadblast dip in 2% acid solution, (I use sulfuric, but muratic or hydrochloric will work) rinse twice in distilled water, blow dry soak in a 3% to 4% solution of yellow chromate and distilled water rinse in tap water, blow dry and let sit in the dark (yes) for 24 hours I then paint them with engine clear. "Brite Dip" is very dangerous, this is the next best choice.
The Jalopy Journal
