Want to rhinoliner my floor pans, can you reccommend some ? ? ? ?

Any one ever use any of the do it yourself rhinoliner crap ? ? I am wanting to put some type of semi thick materail down by brush or roller before i install new carpet, kinda for sound deadner/sealer, and cover very minor weak spots that are there, question is have you ever used any, what kind, and any pointers, or oppositions ? ? ?

 

The Herculiner stuff is good. I haven't used it, but I know guys who have done truck beds and they are very happy with the results!

 

had an old beater corsica, leaked water. we used the permatex? brand roll on in the interior floor where the carpet used to be, and it flaked off quickly.

 

Ive used this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPRA...33655QQitemZ8006993264QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW with great results in my jeep and my truck bed. Its a real two part epoxy type liner. You need an air compressor to apply it. My Jeep seemed alittle more quiet and the thickness did seem to "seal" the metal. Ive had it in use for over a year and there is no pealing, chipping, or corrosion showing. I priced Line-x and the others and this is by far a better bang for your buck. Now to get 1/4 thickness I think you'd have to go with two heavy applications. Just my .02

 

One method to consider is to use POR-15 with fiberglass cloth. Brush on a thick coat of black POR-15 rust killer paint on your floor, and while it is still wet, lay on a fine-weave sheet of fiberglass cloth. Use a second coat of POR-15 on top. The end result is a strong rustproof floor that deals with smallish holes and you can carpet over it or not.

 

used the "sem" brand 2 part deal .....worked great ....took alot of the noise out of the cab of my old truck .......about 160 a gallon ......brandon

 

I like the duplicolor that is sold at oriellys in roll on, qt or gallon or even in rattle can.have used it for severl yrs , the floor of my 55 is done in it inside over por15 and underneath over sealer dp90............

 

i used hippoliner (2 part epoxy) as a undercoating. so far held up next to welding, hammering and a screwdriver.

 

If I were you and I ain't, I would seriously consider properly fixing them "weak spots" before application, otherwise it might be a real bitch when they become a bigger problem.

 

I used Durabake on an old Jeep about 4 years ago. It is holding up pretty good. Iprimed with epoxy primer first. Let it dry real good and scuffit up. It sits outside sometimes full of water. It will fade in the sunlight. It will not act as a rust stop. It will deaden some noise but not like carpet. Use lots of ventalation cause youll get high real quick. Cost about 100 bucks

 

Thanks for the input, the hippoliner sounds good, i have heard that name some where else, there is no major rot or anyting, it just seems that no matter how much you vaccum, powerwash and blow out the interior, after mice, rats and other varmets have been in there, there is always funk that would be easier to kill with a thick coat of something, to kill the smell, and keep the dust down. I just want that clean feeling before i lay the carpet down, thanks for the input . . .

 

I'm curious, have you done this? Sounds like a great idea. Does it keep a hint of the 'glass cloth texture? I had been considering using speckle trunk paint on the steel floor in my T roadster till I saw this thread.

 

I've used the duplicolor stuff, you can even buy it at wal-mart, $39/gallon, buy a cheap shutz gun $9, and thin the stuff with laquer thinner a little, worked like a champ, and stays put

 

What is a "Shutz" gun? And where can I buy one?

 

I used the Herculiner in a Scout tub, not real thick, but super tough. It stood up to engine blocks etc. rolling around in the back and it is non skid, about 80 grit . Its made by a co. called "duraback?" and available on the internet in colors. One tip...it WILL NOT come off skin for several weeks . And use a mixer in a drill to keep the rubber granules suspended in the can.G.M.B.

 

I used Herculiner inside my Jeep, it's held up pretty good. Came off a little where I bashed a fucking huge rock into it, leaking brake fluid peeled it off, and it dulled a little in the sun, but other than that I've been really happy with it.

you can kind of see what it looks like...

 

Hreculiner sprayed on with a siphon sand blasting gun worked great easier than trying to roll it on

 

ive used POR-15 and had pretty good luck

 

I've used a couple different brands...Norton, Southern Urethane, any one that comes with a hardener will work fine. Stay away from single component ones...like Duplicolor! Once you've used the good stuff, you'll realize how crappy the cheap stuff is.
Use an Undercoat (Schutz) gun to put it on, though, rollers don't work as well.

 

Summit racing sells herculiner in a kit form with the rollers and brush.I highly recommend and the price is pretty resonable..

 

Whatever you use, I'd scuff it up alittle with some 100# grit first to improve adhesion.

 

I found out about this from a POR-15 dealer in Sacramento. CA who was at one of the Good Guys shows out here. It does leave the texture of the fiberglass cloth, which i liked, but i'm sure if you used another coat of POR-15 it would be relatively smooth. I'm going to do this on the cab floor of my truck...I never really liked the speckle paint.

 

Eroc....thanks for the follow-up and update on the POR-15 used with 'glass cloth. I might give that route a shot too.

Lynn

 

You have all seen a paint soaked rag after a week or so right?
it is stiff as a board.
POR-15 is not all that works-Any satin or gloss POLYURETHANE enamel will do when used in place of resin over 2-3 layers fiberglass matte to repair a cheesholed section of floor,in leiu of welded patch.
It should be cleaned/blasted-etch primed then applied over that.

It results in a strong repair.

 

choprods - back when I was a broke student I used fiberglass resin/matt to fix a rusty floorboard in an old triumph that had rusted right along the wire channel - here's what I did.... First cleaned up the loose rust, then put a couple sheets of mom's wax paper on a piece of plywood, jacked it up to the floor, layed down a couple of layers of cloth, then mixed up some fiberglass resin and poured it on and spread it out to the countour of the floor. Let it dry, lowered the wood/jack and peeled off the wax paper , light sanding to clean it up then put another wider patch on top over probably 1/2 of the floor. A shot of cheapie black spray paint and it was good to go for another 3 years until I sold it - saw it 4 or so years later and the floor was still holding up (the rest wasn't - guy didn't seem to take care of the car at all...)