Gasser style Straight Axle tech questions

Ok all you nose bleed stance freaks out there, here is are some of my questions.
I just acquired a 63 Dart with a 55 ford straight axle under it, the car runs drives stops, but I'm not happy with the set-up, so I need some opinions.
1. Do I keep the Ford axle under it and clean it up?
2. Do I ditch it in favor of New aftermarket one?, if so who makes the best?
3. What is the best angle to set the axle at to make it handle best for the street?
Thanks for your time.Ryan

 

You will get numerous differeing answers to your questions but if the Ford axle is straight and true it should work fine, I run mine at 5-7 degrees of castor

 

As Langy said there is nothing wrong with a Ford axle, we use to install them back in the 70's a lot, and 5 to 7 degrees of caster will be fine.

 

Keeping such a setup depends on you’re reason for asking …......... Is it to wide ? Rather have tube? ……………………………….............................................. ?

 

No it's fine it seems to be the right width maybe a touch wide but I think it's the wheels and tires the previous owner has on it. It has all new king pins, brakes and such. I just need to clean up the install. A bit then. Thanks for the info


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Hard question to answer if you think about it. Because in stock factory form that same car could have those same issue's as well. She's old, so look and see what's worn out and address the problem. That would include any set up issue's during the conversion.

 

You know how a new to you vehicle can be there are alot of things that I plan on checking out way before I put any miles on it. Who know what skills or lack of skills that that may have.


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Guess what I'm really trying to say is, a New Axle doesn't mean it will ride any better. Set up or installation is key. Second, to remove old and install new axle is as much work as just working on what exists. The real saving's (money) would be fix what you have. As far as a Caster setting, start @ 7 degrees positive and see what happens.

 

Thanks guys, I was just curious if I was going in the right direction, or if I was just ******* in the wind so to speak. I just drove it up the street and maybe hit around 40 (speedo not hooked up) and it didn't seem to wonder as much asi first thought. It was a little twitchy nothing I can't get used to, it is using the stock mopar manual box, it seems tight not much slop. But I'd like it a little tighter. I think I am gonna keep it the way it is and just clean it up and check all the welds. It's a kinda ugly instal at the moment...

 

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I need to figure out my wheel and tire
Situation next. I currently has a B body rear in it and the rims tht are on it stick
Out waaaaaaaayyyyyy to far for this guy. I need to find a stock mopar rim with like 5 to 6 inches of back spacing


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the car is too dam high lower it so the rocker panels are atthe center of both front and back axles

 

Like I said it needs fine tuning for damn sure it currently rides like a brick, it needs all kinds of help, and I plan on bringing up to par! I am open to all input positive and or negative. It was part of a trade deal that was to good to p*** up so I'm gonna try to make it a more user friendly straight axle car. My kids love it so I need to get it ready for them to play with, they're already wanting to drive it to school on Monday....lol not gonna happen that soon.

 

The leaf's have been worked for sure. I see 2 leaf's that have been added or replaced. 2 thing's to try. 1, make sure the shock's have proper travel (they do not bottom out) 2, try removing the 2 leaf's that have been added.

 

It does not have a straight axle - yours is bent at the ends. A straight axle is well 'straight' - that is a dropped axle....

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faonAHydjd0

 

visit www.g***erhotrods.com they can help you............

 

It's a straight axle g***er. It's supposed to ride and handle like a bag of ****.

 

Couple things to do that will help your car drive better. First ignore anyone who says a car with a solid front axle has to handle and drive badly. After that, check the toe in on the tires. It should be 1/8"-1/4" narrower on the front of the tires, compared to the back. Measure both sides to the same points, and if it doesn't have the toe in, adjust it to the above spec.
Then check the kingpin inclination. The top should angle back 5-7 degrees, as previously mentioned. If it doesn't, then figure out how much it needs and buy shim wedges to put between the axle and springs to get it where it needs to go. While it's loose to install the shims, remove a couple extra leafs from the front spring pack, and it will soften the ride. If it's not soft enough, remove another until it rides like you want it to.
I see it steers on the back side of the axle, and also has shackles on the rear. Normally shackles and steering should be on opposite sides of the axle, as the drag link pushing to turn the wheels can also push the axle, and the shackles will tilt slightly. It's not a huge thing, but be sure you're shackle bolts are tight, so they wont tip when it's steered from side to side.
I personally like the way it sits, and the rear tires sitting out, but that just looks good to my eye. I've always set mine up with tires hanging out in the rear, as I like the look. And it definitely doesn't look too high either. Not like some street freaks that look like monster trucks.

 

1971BBC427 did a nice job of answering your questions, I have a 38 Chevrolet and ran the stock beam axle for the first 20K miles, the steering with a really loose stock gear box and the toe in described above would track fine at 100 plus MPH, not sure what it would have been like at 150

 

It's not my first rodeo, I understand it's a drop axle, It's not an independent, or torsion as originally equipped. Straight meaning a straight line, I beam, not A arm. Glad we have that cleared up. I check the inclination it's set at 5 degrees, I have not checked the toe in. The front actually seems to be ok, it's the rear that is real stiff. The installation of both is not to my liking, kinda cobbled together. But it works and actually looking at survivor cars of the era it's very comparable. But not to my taste. I will check the toe in. Now does it matter if it's radial tire vs. bias ply? I plan on switching rims and tires so I really don't want to mess with anything till I get what I plan on running permanent. So for now I plan on getting it running as perfect as I can , and then when wheels and tire show up address the handling issues I guess. But for the sake of argument I will call this a fact finding mission. My plans are a 15x4 to 4.5 front rim with at least a 5.50 tire? Sound correct? Advice wanted here need a good looking correct set up. I'm not declaring it a g***er (god for bid) but a DROP straight axle g***er style car. I don't mind the tires beyond the quarters but they are perfect rust free and I would rather have them tucked into the wheel well with a pie crust slick. It's running a B body rear so I need to take some info and find a correct back spaced rim that will work.. So long story short all corrective input is needed. I didn't build it, not knocking who did, but I need to make it mine.

 

Not really sure what it is your really asking here, but I will say this. Sure radial's will ride better that bias. Just don't mix the 2 as in radials up front and bias out back vise a verse.

 

didn't '70 ish 340 Demons and 340 Dusters have an 8 3/4" rear with the small bolt pattern? They are, I think, the narrowest/stock 8 3/4" rears Mopar made?

 

I had read somewhere that the amount of toe in was different for bias-plyvs. Radials. I could be mistaken. That was my initial question. Sorry for the confusion.. Guys I really am great full for all the info.....

 

No, toe in is the same regardless of what tire you use.
As for the comment about a dropped axle not being a straight axle, I'm calling BS. A straight axle is a straight axle. There are straight axles that are straight with no drop, and there are dropped straight axles. I've never heard anyone look at a dropped straight axle, and not just call it a straight axle. Are we going to get really picky and start adding how much the drop is too?

 

I like it! It's different... It's your car, build it the way you want it. I don't think anything is chiseled in stone for g***er "style"

 

Toe in is something you need to dial in, every car is different, I found most like 1/8" but some like 3/16", best to start at an 1/8" and adjust from there

 

Any who back to the task at hand, Im gonna take some measurements and adjust the steering box just a touch. And with all the info you guys have helped with I should have her driving as well as any ....haha I may remove a leaf or 2 and see if it loosens it up some....

 

Well it's been a minute since I have checked in on this thread, I have been busy making it drive and shift the way it's supposed to, well that is pretty much handled, so it back to the front.. The last header tube was rubbing the steering column shaft so I removed the header to fix that and while I was in there, I decided it was time to address the drag link, and pitman arm as it was hitting the front spring shackle upon turning all the way left, so I need to heat and put a bend on it, and I also noticed that the front spring eye was hitting the frame under hard bumps, as the shackles where almost at full compressed angle. So I plan on removing them where they bolt thru the frame and move them to the bottom of the frame with the proper shackle inclination, as to keep it from bottoming out. What is a good angle to start at when I go to install these.. When I did my Falcon, I just lifted the car with the tires still on the ground and the front of the springs unattached, and then mounted the shackle attachment point in a straight line above the spring eye and when I lowered it down, with all the wieght on it the shackle was about at a 30degree angle, and worked great... So am I thinking that's the route I am going on the Dart? Or am I missing something?

 

And besides it looks like hammered ****! So I am gonna clean up all that bubble gum welding, and fix what needs fixing and make it work as it should...


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