Valvoline 10W40 isn't going away at least not according to a Valvoline rep I spoke with. BTW the Advance auto near me has plenty to go around.
Went to WalMart last night and bought the last five quart jug of Valvoline 10-40 they had. All the other weights and brands were well stocked...hmmmm.
I hope you are right, The only info I have is the return e-mail I got from the Valvoline web site. It was short and sweet, "yes we are fazing out 10w40 motor oil" not much debate with that answer. I'm not saying Valvoline is any better than what ever else is out there, its just what I use and its never gunked anything its ever been in my garage. Regular oil changes (4,000 mi.) will probably stop the gunking problem.
Hm thats disturbing I guess time will tell. I've used Valvoline oils for years especially 10W40 in my tractor and farm truck.
I don't understand this comment. I use Valvoline in all my cars , 9 , to be exact and none of them I repeat none of them have a sludge problem. 4 of them have over 180K on them and are clean. And no I am not one of those guys that change oil every 3K. I run it 6 to 10K.
Just for some info I still sell 10w40 valvoline at my store but if you look at the label it is the only regular oil that does not have an "API certified" starburst on the label.When we sold GM reman engines they would not warranty them if you used 10w40 in them. They claim no factory engine every used 10w40.
Yep, A good HDEO will work great in the older style engines. It's actually a better choice unless you are running in freezing weather.
I'm with you. Lot's of different forums dealing with automotive subjects and every one of them get into an oil debate. You posted some really good info. I use Joe Gibbs Break In Oil on my flat tappet boat engines. 10:1 compression W/580 HP for the wife's boat. We run at a constant 3500-4500 RPMs with blasts to 5500. I've used Valvoline VR once the engine is broken in and never had a cam flatten on me. The key isn't company vs. company but more about what's contained in the oil. Valvoline, Castrol, Mobile 1, Royal Purple, Lucas, and many other companies all have good oils out there. For flat early generation engines, we just need to make sure that it contains the correct properties, mainly zinc. Zinc additives are good, but I've heard from some engine builders that it doesn't fully mix in the oil, so it's better to find an oil with the zinc properties already in it. Just my opinion.
Just got our weekly shipment in at my Advance Auto Parts store in Painesville, Ohio. Packaging date: 7-25-13. Some much for being fazed out
The two, no three, biggest topics for dumb***es when it comes to cars are oil, oil filters, and spark plugs. Each topic is so full of opinions and misinformation it's incredible. There is no magic spark plug. There is no magic oil, or magic oil filter. That said....as for all the oil additive junkies....the oil of 2013 is so many light years ahead of the **** they sold in the 1960's I have a hard time understanding how anyone could yearn for the "good old days" of motor oil. Buy any name brand oil with a proper zinc content and you'll be fine. They're all very good.
P***ionate about brands and old cars are natural. Loyalty is rare these days. Stock up, when you can, you never know what the next whammy ball will roll.
Who are you calling dumb ***es? Its two (2) words. And like cam technologies, oils have indeed advanced by leaps and bounds. No kidding.
before we get phasered out I run a lot of 15 40 diesel oil in stuff but as technology is increasing I am running semi synthetic in a show car that drives a lot and full synthetic in my duramax diesel , sure hard to get used to new technology for a old fart but lower friction seems to be the way of the new world
I'm pretty sure I had more than 1 car where the manual showed 10W-40 was OK for a certain temp range, but not in a long time. But, I have read that 10W40 doesn't stay 10W40 for too long. Without getting too scientific, a multigrade oil acts like, flows like the first number when cold, and flows like the second number when hot. The heat sensitive polymers that are added to "change" the viscosity don't work well at over a change of 25 in viscosity. 10W40 is a 30 change and breaks down. I use 15W40 in my muscle cars. My 2 cents, Dan
I bought 30 Gallons (In cases) of Valvoline VR1 20-50 racing oil (Full zinc) a few years back when Autozone was blowing it off the shelves (buy 1 case get second 1/2 of something) and Valvoline was also doing a buy 2 cases and get the third free.....it worked out like a under a $1.00 a qt or so. Then I found this to house the oil in, still works great. Go for Zinc not brand.
The SAE rating listed will give the viscosity needed to maintain the best oil pressure in various conditions - tired engines obviously require oil a bit thicker especially when running hot etc. You can always go a bit thicker if you have problems with oil pressure - it's the API you need to watch for in older engines with flat tappet cams. "New oils" (API SN etc) are for new cars with roller cam followers and have reduced zinc content for enviromental reasoning. For old engines stick with an oil with API SG or SL rating etc - with good zinc content. Otherwise you will gradually lose you lobes!
^^^^ditto^^^^ Don't try to convert the m***es just use what gets you down the road and makes you happy happy happy!
The Jalopy Journal
