I am working on a 53 chevy 3/4 ton project I just bought. It was running when I got it home for a couple of days. After that it died and wouldn't start again. I rebuilt the carb, changed the ignition coil and condenser, and checked the distributor. Nothing. It turns over but won't start. I don't see to be getting spark at the plugs, at least by tester isn't showing spark. Is this an indication of the wires being bad? Or is there something I am missing? I just hate to keep throwing parts at it if its something obvious. Thanks in advance for any help. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Did you confirm fuel to the carb, accelerator pump squirting? Is there power to the coil, do you have a dwell meter?
Make sure you have voltage to the positive side of the coil (key on).Check the points, check the spark at the coil and at the plugs. Simple matter of elimination, starting at the positive side of the coil ! I am assuming it has the factory motor and distributor, you never said.
The carb is getting gas. I haven't yet tested power to the coil. Would that go out that easily? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
As landseaandair stated, You need to eliminate the fuel or ignition. One of those is the problem not both, it would be unlikely. Then you can go from there . Plenty of people to help here just ask! N.N.
Thanks graybeard. I tested the spark and don't have any at the plugs, nor directly from the coil. Tested the coil by removing wire to distributor. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
sure thing , trouble shooting is better than parts changing , check power to the coil , first , then the coil ( primary circuit) then the plugs , if coil is good and no spark to plugs , coil wire is bad , keep us posted....
Landseaandair. Thanks I do have a dwell meter (neighbor's), but not familiar with how to use it. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
run a jumper wire from your battery positive terminal to the positive terminal of the coil. use this only as a test, as you will be bypassing the ignition resistor. if you still have no spark pull off the cap and crank the engine, check to see if the distributor shaft is turning
Thanks guys. The coil and resistor are new. I am thinking this may be an issue bore the coil since I have no spark after. It is a 12 volt system. I am going to have to check for power before coil now. My neighbor has a dwell tachometer, don't think that is going to help. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Distributor shaft is turning when starter is engaged, and the points as well as the distributor cap look new. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Just follow these easy steps... all you need is a test light. 1: Check voltage at positive side of coil with key on. If there isn't voltage trace back to the ignition swith or as suggested the ballast resistor if it has one. 2: If you have voltage, put the test light on the negative side of the coil and crank it... see if the light flickers. If it doesn't, look real close at the points, make sure they have a nice clean contact surface between the contacts, with the rubbing block on top of a lobe, set the gap where it should be (.018-.020 will get it running). If the points check out OK, make sure the wire from the coil to the points is good... I have seen them break inside the sheathing. (ohm meter works best here). Just a hint... I have seen new condensors that were bad out of the box. I can tell you how to test it... but it would be best if I didn't.... can be a little rough.
Crawl under your dashboard and look at the ignition switch wiring. I bet your "start" wire is either disconnected or corroded/not sending a 'start' signal to your coil. Happened on my '48 chevy. Same symptom. It could also be a bad ignition switch.
Hey guys. Thanks for all of the insight. After testing everything I could think of and replacing some parts (which were old anyway), it turned out to be the ballast resistor. Now I need to adjust the choke and throttle. Thanks again for all the help! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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