What would of been the way old hot rodders would use to lower an early chevy car 40-48. Before all the mustang 2 kits and swapping it out for the later 49 and newer styles. I am wanting to do it as if it was being done in the early 50's so using the 50's suspension would of been too expensive. Would they just heat the coils with a torch to lower it? I am aware of using the airplane style shocks instead of the stock shocks, but any other info would greatly be appreciated
lowering blocks in the back and heating or cutting the coils in front but heated coils keep sagging until they finally are laying on each other if they don't (and they usually do) break first. The 51 Merc I bought when I was 16 (50 years ago) had heated coils and years later when I subframed it (the frame had been damaged in a wreck) both coils were broken when I pulled the front end out from under it. I'd pull them out, take a cut off wheel and cut the number of coils of that I thought would get it where I wanted it and put it back together. I'd probably cut one coil at a time to make sure I didn't drop it too much, more work but less "oh ****" factor in the long run.
...remove bottom spring plate off of front A-frame, space it down with inch or two heavy tubing, bolt back together.
Good pointers everyone. I wonder if I can flip the spindles on the 48. Going to take a look at that tomorrow.
I had the coils heated on a 47 Plymouth back in the 60s. After that it rode like the proverbial lumber wagon. Would have been much better with cut coils. As was said above, only cut one coil off at a time because that can produce a greater amount of drop than you think. You can even go 1 1/2 coils instead of two if necessary. Good ole lowering blocks for the rear should be OK.
Newer spindle supports (up to 1954) will lower it a couple of inches, 15" wheels off a 49 or newer Chev, instead of the original 16s will help. These are stock parts and will not louse up the ride. Then there are cut coils, lowered spring plates etc as already discussed.
It's looking like I might be able to flip my spindles which will drop the front about an inch. Now just have to try and get those king pins out and give it a try
Alright thanks Rusty. Will the original spindles bolt up to them or will I have to use the newer spindles as well?
Some homework for you: http://www.cbforum.net/forum/index.php?topic=29931.0 "Kool rides" in Kansas has a bolt-in front lowering kit which drops the front 2". You have to remove the rivets which hold the bottom "A" arm to the spring plate. Sounds like a good option, uses your original springs. I have to have a look at how it would work (tie rod clearance, etc) but in theory it seems OK.
Ha Ha, this is a reminder when all our cars rode like the proverbial "lumber wagon". Rear end bangin and front clangin. Good ol days? Thank god for all the new stuff! ~sololobo~
When I was a kid in the '50's, we didn't have any money so did things the hard way. I shared a '47 Chevy with my mom . I wanted to lower the front end so I just pulled the springs out. Looked cool. Mom didn't realize the logistics of no suspension and hit a dip in the road at speed. That was the end of my modifying the car.
This is what Rusty1 is talking about. I'm sure you could make them yourself cheaper. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1939-1948-C...owering-Kit-1940-1941-1946-1947-/360671776216
I think the old spindles will fit on the newer spindle supports. If I found one in a junk yard I think I would get everything from the control arms out and use the newer brakes if they were bigger. The problem with reversing the spindle supports or flipping them over, is the king pin angle. Your wheels will be all ****eyed unless you heat and bend the support to reverse the angle. They used to do this but today it is easier to buy dropped spindle supports. In the case of your Chev you don't even have to go aftermarket, the factory made dropped spindle supports.