Distributer help

Hi all just wondering what advice anyone has on which Distributer would work best for my 350 with a TH350 behind it. It has a mild cam, 3 rochesters on an Edelbrock intake. the firewall on my 31 coupe is close so I am looking at a small cap Distributer.
many thanks in advance

 

I have a 31 pickup, 283 with a firewall recess but its still tight. I'm using an old delco dual point with no vacuum advance.

 

GM points-type with a Pertronix module

 

Day in and day out, that is probably going to be the most reliable and easiest to deal with.

You are going to get as many answers as there are distributors out there as everyone has his favorite and there is the group that always pops in suggesting the high end new slicky tricky stuff or the old Mallorys that usually were worn out by some circle burner years ago and parts are in the rare and hard to find category. New and slicky tricky is cool if you have deep pockets. Old, rare and cool is nifty if your intent is more to impress the lookie loos more than it is to jump in the car and take off half way across the country to Roundup or a Billetproof event.

 

GM hei. easy, self contained, no headaches

 

Aside from ugly, it won't fit in his available space.

GM small-cap points style, with a Pertronix Ignitor II.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d104600/overview/make/chevrolet
For the cast stock look, or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d100700/overview/
for the shiny Ignitor II one.
Ralph

 

GM makes a HEI with a small cap---the module is mounted separately.

 

The '87-up small cap HEI has no advance mechanism. It is designed to be computer-controlled. It will not work as a stand-alone unit.

 

I have a question for the guys that suggested GM small-cap points style, with a Pertronix Ignitor II. I have a GM small-cap points style, with a Pertronix Ignitor II. that has carried me over 10 Hot Rod Power Tours (HRPT s) over the last 12 years. This year on the way home from Charlotte The tach which always acted smooth and reliable started jumping. At cursing speed about 3000 it would drop or jump 400 RPM not the motor just the tach. Then a week ago I was cursing along and much larger jumps then the tach dropped to 1000 and the motor sounded like it was running out of gas and quit. I had fuel at the carb but it would not crank over. I was on a hill so after checking for wires off ect I rolled it down hill and tried to start but one backfire then nothing. I had a jump start battery and hooked that up but not even a click. We towed it home that took about 2 hours and it started right up. So I took starter and Alternator to the rebuilder starter was fine alternator had something bad wrong and I thought cool fixed but on the way home from a car show this weekend the tach was still jumping. I shut it off and it groaned a bit but would not start even with a push. I Waited 15 min pushed and it started. I got home and shut it down and now no start. I heard of coils getting hot and do this but the tach jumping makes me wonder about the Pertronix Ignitor II.. All grounds and cables seem good. any ideas

 

The look for the three carbs would be a early cast iron unit with delco cap. Either points or PERTRONIXS would work just fine.
We stock both cast and aluminum.

 

Badbird-
Are you running 12v to the coil? Perts run on 12v but most coils run with a resistor to drop the voltage. Check what your coil needs.
The symptoms sound like the coil is going bad when hot.
The Pert usually doesn't shut down from heat and then recover when cool.

 

Thanks The petronixs help line said the bad running sounded like low voltage so for that part I am going to pull the battery to have it checked and refresh all cable connections that could be everything?? If not then change coils, I will get back with how it all works out. I know I am wired correctly as it worked for over 10 years.