1951 Chevy 3600 Frame Question

I have a 51 Chevy 3600 that I am going to do the S10 frame swap, here is my initial question.

Since the 3600 is a 3/4t and has the extended bed (WB 125) am I better off going with the ext cab S10 that has a WB of 122.9 and moving the rear end back OR am I better to just get new SB bed sides and go with the reg cab LB S10?



Thanks

 

If there is nothing wrong with the stock frame, just box it and IFS....it is much stronger and easier than making all the mounts(bumper, grille, running boards, etc.) I kept mine and did a Fatman IFS, 95 Tbird IRS, airbags. Rides great and handles pretty well for a truck with 75 series tire.
If you still want to s10 it, use the regular cab longbed and stretch the frame. Allegedly there is a slip fit in the mid frame, drill the rivets and you can gain the neccessary inches, then weld and reinforce the joint. Use a 4x4 rear axle to help fill the wheelwells.

 

my opinion(which is worthless) is for using your stock frame, may cost a little more to modify but looks 100 times better. that stock frame can be shortened to swb, and the bedsides too. I have measurements for both if needed.

 

If it were me - and I was deadset on using the S10 frame (which I suspect you might be), then I would use the 122" extended cab ch***is - but instead of moving the axle back, I would just shorten the bed of the truck the necessary amount. The whole idea of a frame swap is to get better suspension and to reduce fab work - right? Moving the axle back will be an additional pain in the *** and it will disrupt the factory geometry, etc, etc.

Just my opinion.

 

The s10 frame is a bit lighter and track width is narrower than our trucks. Ours are closer to the Dakota frame (a mid size). Someone on here used to build adapters for a Dakota swap. Agreed, the s10 does give you modern suspension, but there is still a bit of fabrication involved in making mounts and clearancing areas to fit. If you did go this way, I would stretch the frame a little to get the truck's wheelbase right and keep the longbed.....room for more stuff! I work the hell out of mine hauling s****, engines, construction materials, go karts. The stock frame shure benifits from a full boxing to stiffen it up.

 

Bad idea !! Period !!

 

I appreciate the info,I know this is very sensitive topic and would like to understand the pros and cons. I have to laugh, the last time someone told me "Bad idea!! Period!!" I started jumping out of airplanes. May have been a bad idea but it sure was fun!!!

 

Did you read this thread?

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297685

 

I like the idea of the long bed so wasn't really keen on cutting the bed, I have the resources to fab and like the idea of a modern suspension and correct geometry. I appreciate the feedback, if you don't ask the questions you don't get the right answers.

 

There is a slip fit in the S10 frame, but its welded, not rivetted. Easy to shorten, tougher to stretch.

 

Found a 92 S10 ext cab for next to nothing guy was getting ready to tow it to the s**** yard. Plan to shorten it, blast and paint the frame. Then start this project. I've also decided to replace the bed sides with 1/2 sides. On a side note I will have a good 3600 frame for sale, bed sides, engine/trans, original grille, set of one piece wheels

 

Next question, rear axle. I have read where some people are using S10 4x4 rear axles to set the wheels at the proper width, but is there something else I should also keep an eye out for?

 

Are you sticking with 6 lug fronts or switching to 5 lug?

 

I have not made a determination yet what are you thinking?

 

Well if you switch to 5 lug in the front, then you will want a modern axle. I am keeping my 6 lug front so I got ahold of a early 60s chevy open drive rear so I could keep 6 lugs on all 4 corners.

 

If you are using the s-10 frame I ***ume you are using the front end/brakes it comes with. The 4 wheel drive rear end would give you matching bolt patterns and is strong enough for a mild engine. Personally I would use the original frame and update it.

 

I got a 92 S10 ext cab for $400. Couldn't p*** it up by the time I put a MII front end on the original frame, updated the brakes and PS I'm well past that.

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So I am thinking ahead here about the S10 swap, what is a good option for the pedal setup? I plan to put the master cylinder on the firewall and plan on a manual transmission. Will the existing S10 ***embly work it has a clutch or should I fab something new?

 

Prepare yourself, read this.


http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=828037&highlight=casualties

 

I had the same idea but I am currently installing ifs and it is so simple compared to what I would have had to do.


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Mine is also a 3/4 ton


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