anyone use 'em? i have a weiand manifold and i want my carbs to sit flat, the manifold leaves them angled forward. i'm guessing 3-5 degrees. if i make a wedge plate or machine down the manifold they'll sit right. problem is the stud holes will still be at a 90 from the original surface. anybody?
I have no personal experience, but know alot of boat guys use 'em (either Moroso # 65036 or Trans-Dap #2028) so they can angle the engine downward toward the propeller while keeping the carb level. Hope this helps.
My engine is level. I have a wedge under the carb, to put it back level. There is not enough tension on the studs to make it a huge issue. I coverd the threads, and bent the studs perpendicular with the wedge, after installing them. Its been like that for about 25k. Forgot about it a long time ago.
rember using wedge plates on stock cars bent redi thread in a vise with some nuts on and screwed them into the manifold with fingers and put carb on probably would not take out engines with that set up on
If you make a wedge, you can still have the holes in the wedge perpendicular to the mounting pad on the intake by machining the angle first, then drilling from the machined side...perpendicular to the machined side. The only issue will be that the heads of the bolts won't sit flat against the base of the carb...but small wedge-type washers would correct that. The carb base is not that thick, and there's enough play between the holes in the base and the bolts that the bolts will probably still fit through the mounting holes ok. If you machine the top of the intake, those same wedged washers would help too. In a pinch, a stack of two or three lock washers might suffice. And again, the bolts should fit through the mounting holes in the base...though you might find that drilling the holes slightly oversize and/or chamfering is necessary.
What is the accepticle angle? I have heard 4 degrees max is this correct and what happens if you exceed that?
8th grade science - A liquid want to seek its own level and remain level or perpendicular to the force of gravity. If the carbs are at increased angles, the fuel levels inside the float bowls are off. In reality this theory ought to really screw with carbs in parking garages, ramps, steep grades, off road conditions and any other condition similar. It does to some extent but the conditions are mostly temporary except for the jeep type offroad rock crawler guys who live by fuel injection. The 2 stroke lawn boy mowers are really popular with folks that need to mow off level surface as well as chainsaws. Those carbs don't care about their orientation and the crank case doesn't have oil , a liquid that the same fluid laws apply to. Try the same maneuvers with a 4 stroke and it will hopefully stall before it blows up.
Thank you for the info.Is 4 degrees the accepticle max or does it vary with carb set up ect.Im still working the bugs out on my 31 and was just wondering if its something I need to look at harder.
You'll need to be aware of several things to determine the answer. A road test will let you know for sure. The factory carb specs are based on the assumption that the carb is generally going to remain level. With an occasional temporary grade change up or down. Yours will be 4* off most of the time and the factory specs MAY become completely irrelevant to you. That means you'll have no line of reference to base things off of except your knowledge of how carbs work and what you are asking it to do. Maybe it will be just fine and there will be no issues. Maybe you'll only encounter problems going down hill, tough to say for sure. But if you get some wired ass drivability problems that only show up on a grade change, then this would be a good place to start looking.
Thank you for your reply, I have read a lot of your post over the last couple of years and you really seam to know you stuff.I think this is something I have to look at a little harder as I may be exceeding 4 degrees.This is why I joined the hamb.
I used bent all thread for studs. Worked fine. I made a wedge plate from long strand bondo(angle hair). I put a blob on a sheet of glass and used another one to form the top. I don't remember how I kept it from sticking. Maybe wax paper? It is still on the manifold after 40 years. No deteriation. This was for a 4BBL on top of a home made tunnel ram.I think I could make a whole manifold from the stuff.
so, what are the angles for your trans tail shaft and differential? manifolds have angle built in for a reason.
Im not sure if I exceed 4 degrees(car is at another location right now) its just honestly something I overlooked.I guess I have a couple of things to look closer at.Alignment work was done by a local shop known for doing rods and they also set the pinion angle .Car doesn't have any signs of vibration in the driveline but I should check angles also.
all the inboard hydros with carbs run wedges about 7* made from aluminum or hard wood just run long studs a tapered washers for two brl carb except the 350 class that use a 4brl intake and a 2brl carb which use an adapter with two different bolt patterns on two different angles
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