Projects Couldn't say no... 1948 Ford Deluxe Sedan stored in a garage since '69

Hah... That bike will remain in there for many more years to come.. and--the "Skinny Fenton" was not what it appeared to be--it was a foreign alloy POS..

 

Don't forget to check the classifieds on here. May be an Alliance Member on here that handles the pieces you'd need.

 

..will do... (typically scroll through to see old stuff anyway...)

If I find that my flathead isn't scorched--I think I may try my first re-build.. But--I have a "good" 283.. I'm not sure which will be more cost effective as I'd need to install the correct mounts for an SBC, then get the engine>trans adapters, specific headers, new radiator, and all the induction parts..

I think that a re-do of the flathead may actually be more affordable--
But--the long term idea of possibly swapping in a 9" with an open driveline also slips into my thoughts...

Again--i'm pretty inexperienced with these cars--and every loosened nut-bolt is a new lesson learned..

Always enjoying the response from other HAMB'rs..

 

If the radiator is in good shape you can braze caps over one set of outlets. My 46 had a 53 Cadillac engine it when I got it and that is all the previous owner(s) did. You can get the engine mount from Speedway motors. Use the rams horn manifolds for your exhaust. The adapter plate for SBC to flathead trans come up on Ebay all the time. You can probably find most if not all this stuff at swap meets. I saw a set of rams horns that needed blasted and painted for 30 pr and an old chevy saddle mount for 20 just yesterday at a swap meet locally.

 

What he said. One more thing to consider, sbc mechanical fuelpumps interfere with the front crossmember requireing a "clearance notch" or use of an electric fuelpump.

 

Great information.. Thanks guys as the terminology for some of these parts escapes me and makes for searching somewhat difficult.. I'll be looking into the flathead a little further--and based on what I find--I'll make a determination.. One thing that I need to keep in mind is that I want to keep this car on a fairly thin budget--that's what THIS car is all about for me.. Since I'm neck deep in my '65 Suburban and my '61 Biscayne engine and transmission are getting refurbed ($$$) right now--working on this one has to stay inexpensive..

If I can collect the parts for the SBC swap fairly cheaply-that will be a good way to go--

Thanks for all the tips guys..

 

Hey cool car. My first hot rod was a 46 ford 2dr business coupe The biz coupe had a shorter door than a regular coupe.
Andy

 

60--- I've got a '41 Business Coupe that is in the back of the line... patiently waiting it's turn.. No glass or engine/trans.. Car is completely sun-burnt from headlight to tail lights.. Interior is toast to the seat springs... "in time.."..

 

Might try some automatic trans fluid cut about 25 % acetone in the cylinders. use the trigger type oil gun to spray it all around. that's what worked for me on my stuck flattie. good luck and great find!!!

 

a really nice score there ...

its sitting for so long, it might have a few hiccups to attend too ...

the way the progress is going, you ll have it back on the road in no time ....

 

Guys--I'm pretty sure that I'll just be pulling the engine and trans in the next two weeks.. "Hoping" that the engine will free up from squirting oil in the spark plug holes has been ineffective so far--So--I'm not expecting any headway with that effort.
I'll take the heads off first and get a better look at the pistons/valve seats and combustion chamber condition to see if there are any telling stories or cracks in the block.. (still don't know why this car was laid down to be dormant..)
Once the heads are off--if there aren't any immediately evident signs of damage or points of concern--I'll throw a 2x4 on the piston tops and give them some light lovin' and see if they'll come loose.. Before doing that I'll pull the oil pan off and see if there is any other tell-tale signs of damage or otherwise on the bottom end..

I just picked my 700R4 trans up from the shop for my '61 Chevy.. Also stopped by the engine shop and BS'd with the man there for a bit.. He's going to let me work on my 454 there--maybe let me run some of the machines with some help.. If so--I'll maybe be able to do the same with this old Flathead... We shall see--and I'll post updates..

 

Hemi, I have a 47 Fordor that I pulled out of storage that sat for 30 years. We took the head off it in order to free it up. Kept putting oil and what not in the head and every once in a while my buddy gave the pistons a whack with a piston mallet while I tried to turn it over with a hand crank. It took a week or two, but it did loosen up, then spun freely.

 

update... 9-22-13

I pulled the heads off, and both sides look basically the same.. I took some better pictures with my camera, but here are the phone pics for now.. There is some major sludge in the valley area where the lifters are located... Also--looked like black vaseline oozing from the oil pan when I pulled the plug.. I'm pretty certain it only was slighly viscous from the ATF, Power Steering Fluid and Marvel Mystery oil that drained from a few of the cylinders..





All 8 cylinder walls look pretty decent, heavy carbon built up at top and in chamber areas on heads.. No cracks and no evidence of water in the cylinders.. It still waits to be told what is lurking in the bottom end..

And--here are some glamour shots.. I spent some time with a scotch-brite pad and some oven cleaner getting the black spray paint off the front.. Didn't turn out too bad.. I think it'll look nice all polished and with some past wax on it down the road.. I'm not sure yet on wheel color--but definitely going with the big white walls.. The black walls looked like garbage.. The wheels will either be off-white, or black--stay tuned.. (And--this will the stance that I'll be going for.. The tires are big--and as it's sitting, the front end will have to get lowered about 3 inches.. What's the best plan for that?? Drop Spindles? Spring?? Or a dropped axle?? Taking recommendations in kind.. The back end will be just about right at stock spring height.. Looking only for a very minor rake..







Here's the better picture from my camera..

 

Falcon: That thing looks really good. I can't really tell in the pic of the block but are the head gaskets still on the block or is the block "relieved" around the valves? Either way, chevy3600 has a great idea for you to help free it up. I'd clean the pan out, fresh oil and keep trying!!! Good luck, looks cool! Tim

 

We will have to see what's happening... As it is right now--getting the engine out would probably be the best idea.. I only imagine that if the engine frees up miraculously--all the junk inside will invariably clog oil passages and lead to me killing the engine--which I do not desire to do.. Also--the head gaskets were still in place when the picture was taken--

Are there pictures that you tried to attach?? Are you referring to the front bumper being raised??? I think I know what you're referring to--but please advise..

 

Here it goes.. Engine and trans came out a few days ago.. Yes--it was done in the dark with a single drop light and a couple flashlights with half-dead batteries.. I still don't know why the engine is stuck--I need to find a second engine stand and get the engine and trans divorced to figure it out..

Just a random question to those following along--In order to lower the front of my '48--would it be best to add a reversed eye spring, a drop axle or lowering spindles (dropped spindles) ?? I think I'll be going for approximately 3" lowered in the front--and there are lots of options--I just don't know the correct combination-or "best" route to take..

 

I hope you find the same thing I found on a 36 Ford. The engine wouldn't turn over but I found the clutch and pressure plate had rusted together and wouldn't release. Luckily I found this before I had the engine and trans all of the way out.

 

Don't think it's the case.. I laid under the car, pulled the clutch pedal down and was able to see the pressure plate and clutch disk separate--ain't gonna be that simple brother...

 

There's really no such thing as dropped spindles for your car. Best bet would be a forged dropped axle and reverse eye spring, a sway bar would help, too. Get yourself a catalog from Chassis Engineering, they're the go-to guys for suspension kits/parts for your car. Good luck.

 

Okay..
SO--here she is with the "new" wheels/tires stuck on her.. I like it--a little 4x4 right now.. But with some "adjustments" down the road--with regard to the chassis elevation--it'll be pretty cool.. With the engine back in her it may look just fine as well..

 

Falcon,
Next time you are sitting on the passenger side of the front seat, reach up and slap the dent in the roof with the heel of your hand. I'll bet it will pop right out.
The front end will drop maybe 1-2 inches with the motor back in place. Personally, I like the look of a car that's about stock height off the ground, maybe a little low in the front.
I don't have to worry about "city titties", and gutter drops. Car is looking good.

 

Mike,

That dent remains only because I slapped the more rearward dent and the headliner tore.. I know based on how taut the headliner is closer towards the windshield--I'll tear the headliner badly.. When the time comes to worry more about the pimples and divots in the green-I'll put a plunger on it to try and yank the low spots up high again..

 

plunger should work just fine! you sure those front tires will work with a 3 inch drop in the front?

 

I'm not sure whatsoever.. I'm actually kinda digging the raised stance with the tires as it sits right now... Sure--it'll droop back down to earth a little in the front with the engine/trans back installed--but I'm not too worried about it.. Once the car is running/driving--I'll re-concern myself with the thought of lowering it a little.. Otherwise--I actually think it looks kinda awkward-cool as it sits..

 

I agree-what going on with the flatty?

 

The flathead is partially disassembled right now.. I took the #3 and #4 pistons/rods out and saw no problems other than the rings coming apart when the pistons were removed. The rod bearing appeared to be in good shape and the rod journal looked okay. Still to be determined is the overall crank/bearing condition when the rest of the rod/main caps are removed..

 

...pile of parts..
I was able to remove the crank and piston/rods today. Only problems observed were pistons stuck and some broken rings.. No damage seen in the cylinder bores. I was unable to rotate the engine until I was down to only the no's 5&6 pistons/rods still attached to the crank.. I now just need to get one of the flathead ford valve removal tools and I can have the whole she-bang apart..





..some serious gunk build up...

 

Keep it up! You are doing the same thing I am doing now with my Cadillac 365!

 

Thanks man...
All is apart except valve train..
Needing some Flathead valve tools..



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You'll want the pickle bar tool, but I doubt it will move the valve guides on that stuck motor. If you can't locate the tools, check with us on renting our valve removal tool kit. Comes with 3 tools that will get the job done.