I have pressure switch that has two round contectors on it does any one know where I can buy a pig tail to hook them up?? Is there any type of conector I can buy local to plug onto it. Tiered of hearing brake lights not working and it is just because I cannot get a tight plug on it.
A bullet connector is sometimes called a Ford connector since Ford uses so many of those shapes. Look closely at your switch. Are the pins straight with no little turret on the top? If it has a little turret, it may be a solder lug connection. Do a google for "Ford connectors" and "bullet connectors"...if you do a search for the exact phrase, lots of hits come up.
If it's a hydraulic switch, it may be an issue with the pressure rating of the switch, rather than the connections. When I had a standard pressure switch in my '40s, I had to be nearly stopped, with heavy pressure on the switch, before the lights would even come on. Do yourself a favor, run to the nearest Harley shop and buy a hydraulic switch from them. Motorcycle switches have a much lower PSI rating to them, and will come on much earlier. HD part number: 72023-51E (USA Made, too) Last one I bought was about $22, after tax. I'm running one in both of my '40s. They have two blades and they supply you with the connectors for them.
I'm using the Harley switch to. Simple to switch out and easy to hook up with a couple female spade terminals. My brake lights come on a lot sooner than before!
Find a connector for an old A 6 compressor. I think it will fit and splice on to the brake wires. The terminals are GM 56 series.
+1.... I'm running a hydraulic brake switch out of a Polaris snowmobile... super cheap and lots out there..
And just to further confuse the issue the Ford pins are .187 dia. and normal ones are .153 or so , 2 different sizes for sure .
I've got the same bullet connectors and they kept popping off, I ended up soldering them on. Brakes are a pain in the a$$ for sure. T
Thanks Bchrismer for the info on the fitting sizes. Got to thinking about using a HD switch or other lower pressure switch: Is there a danger of blowing the low pressure switch apart, causing a brake failure? The HD low pressure switch has different requiremets therefore different engineering specs.
No. Low pressure just means that the switch activates at a lower line pressure than the other types. So your lights come on sooner.
Went through the same PITA when I completely rewired my '63 Falcon recently. Nobody around here had the correct connectors, so I found myself digging through the scrap pie and grabbing all the old connectors from the Falcon. But I found even Ford doesn't use the same size everywhere, as some fit, and some were the wrong size. I finally found two good ones and soldered them to my harness to keep them as a plug in style.
an amazingly simple fix.....................I use VW that has two spades. Use what you have fittings for, they are all just switches and have no idea what they are going in.
Quit over complicating this , take a simple pair of pliers , and gently pinch down the ends (while unplugged , ) then plug 'em back on,
Okay, so I see a lot of HD switches that are part #72023-51 *A*- would that be the same as the #72023-51 *E* ? They seem to be more inexpensive... I don't want to scrimp on having brake lights, but if they are virtually the same... 8=)
The HD switch seems to be the best choice....When you buy it, get the connector that goes with. 4TTRUK
Agreed. The main difference is in the spring inside the switch. The lower pressure switch uses a lighter spring.
Get rid of the pressure switch and use a GM style plunger switch that contacts the brake pedal. Much better design , can be installed out of the elements ,and is a proven reliable switch by GM.
I think on a frame mounted master, under the floorboards, a pressure switch is a much cleaner installation. Tough to mount a plunger switch to the floor in an early car/truck and have it look clean. I could see on a firewall mounted master this being a good solution... Tom