Two issues with the "pumps". IF it has a rear pump, it will be "engaged" and affect how the tow vehicle can do the tow. It actually pulls the tow vehicle down, and makes the towed vehicle squirrely. It does lubricate the transmission and prevent it from being "run dry" so to speak. It's the reason a rear pump transmission can be push started also. IF the towed vehicle only has a front pump, you're asking for trouble, and damaging the transmission. Removing the drive shaft prevents BOTH of these issues, unbolt it and tie it to the side. It's why towing hubs were invented, prevents ALL the issues you risk towing a vehicle. IF it's a SHORT tow, there will probably be no problem either way, don't even consider a long tow, and I'm limiting MY advice to FIVE miles. Now, looking at the car, just hire a tow company with a flatbed to move it. I've had experience where a tow company won't use a wrecker to tow a vehicle that's been sitting for many years claiming the bearings (spindle or axle) may be dry/rusted, and they don't want a "lockup" to happen. I have TWO tow bars and Two sets of towing hubs, that's how I always towed my Bracket Car. I have also made short tows, just to move the car, without using the towing hubs, and when the rear pump, aluminum Powerglide engages, it almost feels like a Positraction unit is going bad, and something is holding the towed vehicle back. Just read what is recommended in a MOTORS MANUAL regarding towing a vehicle. Bottom line, disconnect the driveshaft for ALL flat tows, period. Butch/56sedandelivery.
The rear pump does everything that the engine driven pump does...as long as the fluid level is correct flat towing an early four speed hydramatic is OK...as long as the shifter is in neutral! When manufacturers decided to stop putting rear, driveshaft powered transmission pumps in the transmissions then it became a good idea to disconnect the driveshaft before flat towing...
nice car .way better condition than mine ( can you do me a favor and get pictures of the brake MC set up and pedal for me , Mine came without and I am trying to figure a way to make a new pedal box ) we towed a early 60's gmc pickup with a dual pump trans ( I think it was a early powerglide) from Champaign to Joliet ( about 100 miles across I-72 to Rt47 N to I-55 ) with a rear pump trans and the drive shaft hooked up , and the guy drove it for 10 years after with no problems . but your **** puckers every time you hit a big bump as you hope the selector doesn't pop out of the detent ( and you know how smooth Illinois roads are even when new they are rough ) thats the only reason why I reccomend undoing the 4 bolts at the rear and tieing the shaft off to the framerail my dads rule for towing , 2 pumps ok to leave drive but go slow ( 25-30 ) , one pump drop the driveshaft or your dropping the trans or use the tow hubs ( yes he still has a set ) .
Drop the driveline !!!!!!!! My hydro trans governor was ruined by a faiure to either rear lit it, or drop the d'shaft. Easy insurance !!!!!! 4TTRUK
Brought the Pontiac home today, a little fuel down the carb and it fired up. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Two things 1 If it has sour fuel in the tank drain and clean the tank befroe using it to hold gas. 2 Damm nice old Poncho especialy from that part of the country,not much rust.
The previous owner had the fuel tank removed, boiled, and sealed, it hasn't had any fuel put in it yet. The PO mentioned the engine smoked bad, I ran the engine until the coolant temp came up. The smoke went away, I think it was stuff in the exhaust system. The engine runs 40psi.oil pressure, lights and gauges all seem to work. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I would have dropped the driveshaft and not worried about the ******. I've towed my '51 on a tow bar I made @ 70mph this way and have had no problems. The trailer is the way to go!
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