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DIY running board covers using rubber bed mat

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bobj49f2, Jun 15, 2010.

  1. bobj49f2
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,964

    bobj49f2
    Member

    I did a search and found a few posts about using a truck bed liner to cover running boards but there were no pictures. I have a '37 Buick and want to cover the boards with something that looks close to the stock material. Reproduction covers sell for close to $600, I'm building this car on a tight budget. I think wide ribbed truck bed mat looks pretty close to the stock look. The ribs on the stock covers are about 3/4" wide. Any one have pictures of using the bed mat material?
     
  2. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,291

    F&J
    Member

    There should be many sources for generic running board material. Many styles and bead sizes.
     
  3. Stu D Baker
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,815

    Stu D Baker
    Member
    from Illinois

    [​IMG]

    I'm planning on using something like this. It's a generic black floor runner that most hardware stores sell off a roll by the foot. There are a couple of different patterns, but, to me, this one looks appropriate for my use. Stu
     
  4. Restoration Supply sells many types of rubber in bulk.
     
  5. dannybayo
    Joined: Apr 12, 2010
    Posts: 27

    dannybayo
    Member

    I just did that,cost me $40.00 I'll try to load some pictures,Dan


    (The Pictures are in my Album)
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2010
  6. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 4,929

    RMR&C
    Member
    from NW Montana

    Never used it for running boards, but did use it as a floor mat in my old F-100 work truck. Worked slick. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work for running boards. Contact cement should work to glue it down.....
     
  7. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 18,499

    Squablow
    Member

    I've seen this done, in fact I have a bedliner laying around for just such a purpose. Problem is getting it to stick. Contact cement didn't hold up very long at all on the first try. If you can find some glue strong enough to hold it down, it should work. Let me know if you figure out what adhesive is the best.
     
  8. Keen to see pictures of this one also.
     
  9. olddrags
    Joined: Oct 19, 2006
    Posts: 476

    olddrags
    Member
    from ky

    I've had the same type of project for covering the running boards on the 37, Bought rubber sheet very simular to the photo posted above, Trimmed to fit , glued with waterproof floor tile type adhesive ,after 2 weeks the glue wouldnt set-up, stipped the adhesive,washed with laq thinner, this time I use 3m Super trim adhesive, after 2 weeks you can pull the rubber mat off and the glue is hardened on the running board , but still very sticky on the rubber mat! I spent 40 yrs in the body industry, installed vinyl tops, carpet, headliners etc and have never had this sort of problem! Its appears there is something, maybe some mold release in the rubber effecting the adhesive, Thinking about trying windshield urethane next!!
    Any ideas??
     
  10. What about the glue used for vinyl tops? Is there anything for the adhesive to "bite" to on the back of the rubber? May need to go after the back of the mat with 100 grit on a DA?
     
  11. terrarodder
    Joined: Sep 9, 2005
    Posts: 1,101

    terrarodder
    Member
    from EASTERN PA

    I sort of remember someone saying to sand the rubber to get to hold. anybody else remember this?
     
  12. mr.chevrolet
    Joined: Jul 19, 2006
    Posts: 9,307

    mr.chevrolet
    Member

    i'm using wide ribbed mat on my 37 and i'm gonna screw it down with black sheet metal screws. it's not a pristine restoration type car.
     
  13. jughead2
    Joined: Mar 24, 2010
    Posts: 67

    jughead2
    Member
    from tenn.

    anyone tried "liquid nails" from the hardware store. tried everything on my rubber handlebar grips. that stuff is still holding a year later. when replacing will be a cut and grind situation .
     
  14. jackjohn
    Joined: Mar 10, 2010
    Posts: 24

    jackjohn
    Member
    from mineola tx

    i used a rubber tool box mat made for a taco wagon tool boxon my 46 chev. it was long enough and wide nuff to split for both sides.

    john
     
  15. model.A.keith
    Joined: Mar 19, 2007
    Posts: 6,279

    model.A.keith
    Member

  16. bobj49f2
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,964

    bobj49f2
    Member

    I've looked McMaster, all the home improvement stores in my area and on the net and all of them are too narrow for the look I want. I want an as close to stock look as possible. I don't have the bucks to buy the actual reproduction covers at $500-700, that's just too rich for my low budget:

    [​IMG]

    I hoping to find a truck bed mat that will be close:

    [​IMG]
     
  17. What he said;)
     
  18. bobj49f2
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,964

    bobj49f2
    Member

    Restoration Supply was one of the first places I tried. They don't have what I want, their matting has 1/4" wide ribs, I'm looking for something at least 1/2" wide. Their products look exactly like the rolls of matting I've found at the home improvement stores for a fraction of the price. I'm going of low budget (read cheap) as possible.
     
  19. derpr
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 257

    derpr
    Member

    I had the same problem with a fourty ford. the rubber covers were pretty pricey so i used a roll on bed linner from auto-zone.
     
  20. bobj49f2
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,964

    bobj49f2
    Member

    I would use the roll on bed liner, I used it on the boards for my '49 Ford truck and it looks great and has lasted over 15 years, but my Buick boards are fairly smooth with a couple of faint ribs. The cover adds the lines so I'd have to figure a way to build up the roll on material to form the ribs. I think this would be a time consuming procedure and probably won't get the results or endurance I'm looking for. I think the bed mat is the way to go. I just would like to see some pictures of completed boards.
     
  21. 4woody
    Joined: Sep 4, 2002
    Posts: 2,110

    4woody
    Member

  22. bobj49f2
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,964

    bobj49f2
    Member

    4woody, it looks like they may have what I am looking for. I sent them an email asking for dimensions. Thanks.
     
  23. skidsteer
    Joined: Mar 19, 2007
    Posts: 1,246

    skidsteer
    Member

    Maybe Gorilla Glue would work? I used it on a winter pool cover, stayed together for years. Just be sure to wear gloves, and DON'T get it on your hands!
     
  24. dannybayo
    Joined: Apr 12, 2010
    Posts: 27

    dannybayo
    Member

    I could'nt load the pics of the boards here so i put them in my ALBUMS.It was called Hippo bed spray,we did a pickup bed and the boards,Dan
     
  25. enjenjo
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 2,778

    enjenjo
    Member
    from swanton oh

    Here's the trick for installing running board rubber. First, clean the back side of the rubber with rubber buffer or lacquer thinner or something similar to get all the mold release off. Do a good job. If the rubber is smooth on the back, scuff it good with 80 grit paper, and clean it again. You can't be too clean.

    To prepare the surface of the boards, I lightly sand blast them, then I powder coat the boards. I scuff the powder coating with 120 grit paper, and clean with wax and grease remover.

    To install it, you will need a bunch of those cheap spring clamps that look like giant clothespins. You will also need several clamps that will go deeper, to near the center of the running board from the edges. You also need some strips of 1/4" plywood, as long as the running board, and about 1" wide.

    The adhesive I use is 3M Urethane windshield adhesive. It usually take one tube per board. I spread the adhesive on the outer half of the board, and cover, and install the outer half of the cover first. Clamp in place with the spring clamps, over the plywood strips, to spread out the load so there are no puckers in the rubber. After the outer half sets up, about an hour, spread adhesive on the inner half and repeat the clamping on the inner half. If the ends wrap over the ends of the board, I glue them seperately, after the top side has set up over night. The urethane adhesive takes about 1/2 hour to set up. Make sure you start straight, there are no second chances doing it this way. But the rubber will never come loose.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2010
  26. enjenjo
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 2,778

    enjenjo
    Member
    from swanton oh

    duplicate post
     
  27. enjenjo
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 2,778

    enjenjo
    Member
    from swanton oh

    duplicate post
     
  28. ashebaba
    Joined: Oct 11, 2012
    Posts: 18

    ashebaba
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I've done the regular ribbed rubber on one of my old cars. Used was/grease remover like prior to painting a car. Then sand with extreme co**** sandpaper. Used weldwood contact cement--both layer metal and the rubber. stick together, pull apart and let "alsmost dry--stick together, pull apart, and then position with weight on it. Take minimum of week to really dry. It will stay down after all this, even on the curved edges. Better wear old clothes and gloves, the glue likes to stick to everything-including you--just like saran wrap when you don't want it to bunch up.
     
  29. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,530

    aaggie
    Member

    I did a set on an old Hudson on a real tight budget. I patched the rust holes to get a fairly smooth metal then welded some 1/4" round rod the length of the boards spaced where I thought they looked OK then took them to a place that sprayed on Rhino bed liner. For less than $50 they came out nice and were indestructible.
     

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