Sbc - early crank 2pc seal into late block 1pc seal

I've not done this one yet - putting the earlier style crank with 2pc seal into a later block with 1pc seal. But some searching turned up this contraption.
Is this what I need ? Anyone used it?

http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso-Small-Block-Chevy-Rear-Main-Seal-Adapter-Kit/745554/10002/-1

Is there another way.

 

Bump

 

I checked into doing that too but ended up just using a one piece crank. I think there is a jig tool you need to center it in the main to set it up correctly.

 

unless you've got a smoking deal on the crank, i'd just run a one piece deal...we looked into it but after buying all the stuff , I could but a new steel crank for a little more.

 

Ah I see.
Yea smoking deal on 3.25 stroke crank - free
And smoking deal on a vortec roller block - free

327 build in mind out of some good stuff laying around here.

 

money for adapter or money retro fit rollers... I did a later model roller style motor, after doing it , its hard to do a conventional style motor...lifter prices jump up there on the retro fit stuff...

 

Plus I here a lot of negatives on the longevity of the retro rollers.
I've never used the retros so I'm going off of all the Internet stories, those are all true right? Lol

Since they took the effort make this conversion part, I'd ***ume there is a base of guys who need or have used it. I'm guessing

 

Bump for the afternoon guys

 

thats it....

 

The longevety has more to do with spring pressure then with retrofit. many companies make a good product (Lunati comes to mind) but then when you throw .6+ lift you are throwing a lot of pressure on them.

The fitment of the early crank in the late block is not that big a deal as I recall. I would have to look back in my notes to be sure but I think that it is pretty simple to do. Or you could just give me the crank for my next iteration of my small block.

 

******, what the hell do you need a 3.25 stroke crank for ?
I know where to get them cheap - lol
If you can check your notes that would be greatly appreciated my friend.

 

Don't tell anybody but this is what I'm planning
Flat tops, vortec heads, 400 hp on the cheap.
Ill need to buy pistons, gaskets, and apparently a crank seal adapter doohickey.

 

Installing the early crank in the later block is no problem with the seal adapter. Just remove the roll pins in the block and let the crank center the adapter instead of trying to let the roll pins do it, it will cause a rear main leak more times than not if you don't.

 

That is correct information.

The early versions of the seal adapter didn't mention the roll pin removal and caused several of my customers some problems.. If they would have only asked... but some guys have to learn hard..

 

Thanks for the heads up on the rollpins

Any problems with the flex plates and the bolt patern changes getting in the way ?

 

No. It just changes everything back to the old style stuff.

 

Everything else is just as the non-one piece seal blocks except for little idiosyncrices like dipstick on opposite side of the block and maybe a slightly different oil pan to compensate, etc. Just keep in mind the one piece seal cranks take a specific flexplate/flywheel that is balanced differently than the early 2 pc seal cranks, so they wont interchange, don't think they will even bolt up to one another either. Maybe no hole for the fuel pump pushrod...maybe. Don't recall any other difference right off.

 

Well I've never tried swapping parts between the two.
Had plenty of each apart and rebuilt both early and late.
just never have forced the two to breed besides intake manifolds.

Thanks again for the info.

 

You might find little oddball things that seem to be a big issue(at the time) but really aren't. Should be a neat little engine. Are you going to try to use a hydraulic roller setup.

 

Yes hydraulic roller.
The dyno sims are back a few posts.
I'm really liking the looks of 286hr right now.

 

Maybe you could do a build thread to show what all is really involved in doing the early crank in the late model block swap so others that might have this opportunity can know what to expect.

 

I am going from memory but I think the 96 up vortec block does not have the water pump byp*** hole no drilled.

 

Maybe - kinda sounds like fun doesnt it?

 

Im building a Hyd Roller cammed 383 in a Vortec block right now. After talking with the cam guys and researching it, I went with the retro fit lifters anyway. The "good" ones are made by Morel. The Lunati's are made by Morel and are the same. My cam is 282/290. and 550 lift. My springs are 135 on the seat and 340 at max lift.
The only other Issue I can think of was some of the timing sets may have clearance issues in the vortec block. I used the GMPP HD single roller like the 1 tons and the LT4 used.

 

Vortec has got to have a byp***.
Heater core works as long as it doesn't have a valve

 

So the morel lifters are the best out there ?

 

I don't know if they are the absolute best period, but Chris Straub and a couple others recommend them for their cams. We just used them in my brothers blown SBF too.There are 2 levels the high perf. Street ones are around 400.00 the best ones are more. I bought the Lunati high performance street ones for mine. I'm going to chip it at 6000 RPM.

 

There are less expensive seal adapters out there that are just as good as the Moroso. I've used one from All Star or All Pro years ago. I just got online and typed in one piece seal adapter to find it. They also had an inexpensive alignment tool that with the adapter and tool was way less than the Moroso. I'm not knocking Moroso's stuff, I've used their products a lot. Just saying there are other options out there.