I am not at home, but when I get there I will put up pictures. My Big question at the moment (and I am sure I will have many) is that I have a chance to buy a 1933 stock flathead V8 and three speed for $1500 - it is out of a wrecked 33 and has 59K original miles on it and is running.... I have been doing some reading and realize it is not the best of these motors, but my question is will it be good enough if I put a bit more carburation on it, upgrade the ignition and perhaps the water pumps to keep things cool. What would be the top speed of this motor in its current form in the 29. I am sure it would help if I use a different (not stock) trans and rear end and that was in my plans... Are there adapter kits for the early flatheads to more modern transmissions - I see ones for more current flat motors???? What do you guys think??? I need freeway speed but I do not need a fast machine my Stude with a SBC etc... does that for me. I want a fun driver that I can go 5-10 towns away with....
'33 flatheads have waterpump-in-head heads and are VERY expensive to rebuild. There aren't a lot of hop-up parts for the early flatheads either, mostly restoration parts, the trans also in a non-synchronized 1-2 gears so you'll have to double clutch up to third. While it sounds like a good deal for the combo it'll limit a lot of options in the future. They do make adapters for the early flatheads check out Bendtsen's transmission adapters to adapt a chevy trans behind the early flathead engines. If you don't plan on driving the '29 a lot, the '33 engine combo would be ok, just don't expect to get much out of it.
I really like the look of the pump in head. High rise 2x2 and a 1939 trans with model a banjo and cable brakes. Would make a real nice pre war hot rod. If your looking for highway maybe an 8ba with t5 and disks? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
OK here are the promised pictures It does have the hood too, it runs with the original drive train and leaks oil all over... I will drive it around town a bit until the real rain sets in. Then I will tear it apart and do a frame off.
If it was me Id take that $1500 and the 1st thing I would buy is juice brakes although looking at the wheels does it already have them, if so Id be going through them 1st and foremost. Then the next $ I'd be spending is going through the steering and making sure all is great. If going more than a mellow motor upgrade the front brakes to discs. Yeah not traditional blah blah blah but your's and those with and around you safety is paramount. From cost perspective. SBC with a 4 speed behind it, suitable width diff and call it done. If you go that way box the chassis.
No don't invest in that engine for your project. Too much money for a used engine. Too hard to rebuild, No power. A lot of drawbacks to the earlier engines.
$ went to a better buy, well and a little more $$ too I got this motor and the intake http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=826017&highlight=8ba
You'll be much happier with that engine for sure, price isn't that out of range for a rebuilt 8BA some are going for much more, it's a decent deal. The trans options are unlimited also speedway sells a kit for it, cornhusker does too. Parts are gonna be cheaper also, heads interchange with the earlier center outlet 59A engines too if you're going for an earlier look, good luck and you're off to a good start!!
Thanks for the feedback - Im getting excited! I have limited room in the garage and probably need to be able to move the motor around - want to build a stand or crate for it or buy a heavy duty table or dolly. How much does that motor weigh?
You can find a engine stand cheap on Craigslist or at Harbor freight. I just set mine on a movers 4 wheeler. Small 4 wheel dolly to move furniture they are made of hard wood and work great for just moving around the garage.
Fix what you have and drive it and enjoy it before you take it apart! Then decide what you want to do with it!
OK have my motor and front end parts on the way (4" drop ibeam axle, split wishbones, disk brakes) Oh yeah let me know if I need to take this out of traditional now.... Looking at transmissions looks like a top loader would be right - any year better than others - looks like there are some with overdrives too. What are my other options? Then there are rear ends 8" 9" other. Looks like the stock width is pretty narrow 56.5 Is that correct? Guess I could go a little wider, but want to stay full fendered. Found a chart that says a Maverick has a 56.5 8" in it....?
Depends, do you plan on channeling it? If so you want a little wider rear. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Do not plan on channeling it. Got it out on the road this weekend as is. One front tire is bald so I replaced it with a used tire yesterday and I probably should adjust the brakes. Read about the wood brace method. Again any suggestions about transmissions and rear ends??
Since you're going the disc brake route..rear end trans options are limitless. If you were planning a truly "traditional" build, usually a '39 toploader trans, '39-'41 ford banjo rear is common with '39-'48 front drum brakes. A common setup for you instead would be like a Ford 8" from a maverick or disc brake Ford Granada rearend, S10 rear,etc and a TH350 trans but there are many other combos that would work just as well also.
A few more questions. Well first the disk brakes that came with the front end I bought were the single puck 3/8 rotor not going to work for me - Im getting an OK refund for those parts. Is there a way to tell the spindles I have that came with this are 37 to 48 spindles so I can buy a proper kit for it? Should the holes be 3.5" on center?? I can post pics if need. Second, I think I want to go to with a S10 rear end and trans any suggestions on a ratio for the rear end - a friend car guy was saying 3.7..... Oh yeah to help with the right brake kit what is the lug pattern for the S10 rear so I can match it up front I have seen both 5x5 and 5x4 3/4
you need to post pics of the spindles you have in order to tell what they are and what to order if you still wanna go the disc brake route. To keep it more in the "traditional" theme, ditch the thought of using disc brakes and use '52-'56 F100 front drums instead they are self-energizing and Bendix style, you can get parts for them at any O'reilly or Pep boys, drums just "fit" the style better and they'll stop your ride just fine. Some use '39-'48 front car drums but they tend to get grabby and need constant adjustment but they fit the style also. S10 rears are common as dirt, the one to look for is one from a ZR2 since it's a little wider and has 3.73's and posi from the factory they are also drum in hat disc brakes. They are 4 3/4" bolt pattern. Otherwise, any S10 rear will work they are a little narrower, good if you're running fenders most were 3.42 some were posi, good to look for a donor that came from a 6 cylinder vs. 4. If you're set on using front discs speedway sells a kits that'll bolt onto your spindles.
And also, Rotten leonard on the HAMB sells a re-drilling jig to re-drill bolt hole patterns if you want to run 5.5" on the S10 rear
Just to clarify: '52-'56 F100 front drums 5 X 5.5" bolt pattern '39-'48 Ford car front drums 5 X 5.5" bolt pattern S10 rears either 5 X 5" or 5 X 4 3/4" bolt pattern '39-'48 Ford banjo rear 5 X 5.5" bolt pattern Ford 8" 5 X 4 1/2"
Some of the information and opinions you have been given are dead on, and the others miss the mark by a mile. Traditional begins in the heart and mind and follows what was done in a particular time period. A flathead engine with a later trans, like a T5 moves you out of traditional into traditional looking. I know it's frustrating but my idea would be to find a '39 transmission and add a quality set of gears to it, or at the worst rebuild it with new synchronizers. Add juice brakes. Change the front axle to a forty style and run F100 brakes on the front. Keep a banjo rear end. I have the chart for width, and can't say a forty will fit in the same space as 'A' but, the more robust the parts, the longer they last; no matter what, if you're going to call it 'traditional' stay All Early Ford. One bonus is that the lug patterns will remain 5 1/2 on 5, which will give you a lot of options in choosing wheels, including 16" Kelsey Hayes bent wires, that are my favorite 'traditional' style update. Yeah, all the stuff I've mentioned will cost some bucks; but, so will all the rest, and the last I time I checked an S10 rear end was not 'traditional'. On the other hand you can mix and match a lot of other parts and end up with a late sixties, seventies style street rod by going with Pete and Jakes parts, a small block chevy, dropped front axle, disc brakes, 9" Ford rear end, and so on. More bucks. Keep in mind anyone who thinks messing with cars is something you can do with a few bucks doesn't realize that it isn't a hobby: It's an addiction. And, yeah, I wouldn't mess up that nice sheet metal, too much. If you want something that looks like a bar of soap, buy a Toyota. Hey! I know I'm opinionated. But, still, Good Luck on your new religion. In the year of our Ford.
Yes S10 rears, Ford 8"&9",Granada rear, disc brakes, Th350,Th400, T5 trans ARE NOT traditional but easier to find, and common street rod fodder IF that's the direction you are going with, It's you car do what you will with it! Personally, I would go with an early ford 3 speed, w/later gears ('46-'48), closed drive, and an early Ford '39-'41 banjo rear w/3.54 gears and 16" bent spoke kelsey hayes rims but that's just me
Go with a T5 with the 8BA you won't regret it, if you want a slush box go with a C4 you won't regret it either, with the 8BA you need a truck bell hsg and an adapter, available all over. Forget anything with valve covers the A will love ya for it................. you might want to pick up a copy of Mikes Book "How to build a traditional Ford Hot Rod" will answer most of your model a V8 questions
You know I was going for more traditional and then I thought this may be my last big build and what I want is to leave it full fenders but also want drivability. So if that means I have to move this to a different forum so be it - sick the admins on me so I they can tell me how to do that . Meanwhile, yes it is my car and I WILL do it the way I want it! I want to do it with some knowledge and fore thought..... Roseville Carl I am reading that book, and I am reading a ton here and other places on line. I also have a buddy who is not an old Ford guy but a rodder true and true and I trust his judgement like no one else. I also know a few local folks who I trust and they are turning me on to more folks with more expertise- Isn't all great!! I am learning a ton of stuff. I get confused, some of the local folks aren't available or don't know so I turn to a bigger group here - also very cool!! Here are pics of the spindles
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