My son, Shawn, was back on a mountain here in Wv a couple days ago, (He works for a gas company), and low and behold there was a truck and trailer with a 50 model Ford truck on the trailer..he was headed to the crusher! Anyway Shawn gave him 500 bucks for it and the fellow delivered it to my son's home..Shawn's Great-Grandfather had a truck like it in the 60's....so it was a sentimental thing... Anyway, in attempting to make it run, the engine (an 8RT)..locks up about a half turn..either way...not solid, sorta soft ....it feels like he could force it but he's afraid to try that... He took the heads off..all pistons work and the valves are ok... Any ideas on what the trouble is? Any thoughts are appreciated.. Thanks, Steve
Take off the front cover and remove cam gear. Now crank and cam are separate, turn and see what turns and what doesn't.
As long as both heads are already off have him see if all 8 pistons move up an down equally when he turns it back and forth. it could have a broken rod if one doesn't move or it could have the cylinder walls in one cylinder rusted to the point where it stops the piston at that point. If they all move the same do what Bruce suggested and go from there.
My 37 engine was the same way. After flooding the cyls with MMO and putting some in the valve chamer I let it sit for afew days. Then turned it back and forth with the spark plugs out and eventually it loosened up. I am guessing a stuck valve or two is what caused it. Will know more this winter when I open it up. Rod
Update.. Well it must have been stuck valves....3 finally popped loose..the fourth one wouldn't budge..so we applied more pressure turning the engine....using penetrating oil and a hammer with a pipewrench on the rear yoke on the ******.. Guess what..something popped, now the piston's work...none of the valves work at all! Deeper we go! Thanks all!
An 8BA should be a relatively direct swap also. Just use your truck waterpumps. ***uming they are any good.
Hey! Mail the stump on that gear to Bubba...he's building an adaptation for early cam to late distributor, and could make what he needs out of the poor thing!
Cams are easy to find. After crank removal cut the cam with a cutoff wheel then remove lifters from top with air hammer. Guides and valves can be a bear some times but the valve heads usually break off easily with some "messaging" with an air hammer from the top. Hard work but worth it if the block is good.
I don't think I would replace an entire engine because I didn't listen to Bruce before I forced the issue. Yoyu already got it open, free everything up clean the hell out of it and replace the cam. PM me for cam and repair advice. In our world ( the new millenium) never throw away what can be repaired. its not like the junk yards are full of flatties these days. And it is a FORD which is Fix Or Rapair Dailey, fix it drive it and fix it some more. It will make he kid one fine ride if he just respects the name and it true to his calling.
Look carefully at the block for cracks from valve seats to cylinders before spending anymore on the engine. 4out of 5 flatheads I have found are crackes
Thanks all for the replies...Bruce what is it that Bubba needs......going to check for cracks, if the block is not good, we have an engine out of a 79 Lincoln we may put in....It'll probably be awhile before another update....we are searching for a bed, somewhere close to Wv..it doesn't have to be all that great.. Thanks! Steve
That was my thought when I read the post about the pop and the crank and pistons moving. Sacrificing the cam gear rather than breaking something else isn't a bad thing though.
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