Features '54 Chevy 3100 Worth Asking Price?

Apologies if this is the wrong forum - I'm new and trying to stay true to the rules.

Someone wants 3500 for a 54 3100. It has a fair amount of body rust but runs well with a 235 and 3 on the tree. But it does need plenty of work - new wood bed, running boards need a lot of help, some sag in the body, etc.

Can anyone tell me what they'd pay so I can avoid getting ripped off? I would REALLY appreciate it.

Edit: Pics

Here are pictures. I drove it - runs and drives well. Frame looks solid. Interior needs just as much work as the exterior.

The seller is going to say "No," but I don't think I can offer more than 1k. Thoughts?

 

Give us some pictures to go by... but right the price sound a little high.

 

There is no 'Blue Book' for these old trucks, they are worth what someone is willing to pay. That said, here are 2 very recent comps:

1. I just looked at a local '55 first series 3100. It's been sitting outdoors for 10 years, has a frozen engine, tons of surface rust, no rot, all there and original, interior is shot, needs everything gone through, has a valid ***le. The seller won't let it go for less than $4,000. I p***ed on it.

2. Looked at a '51 3100, all original looking, has a rebuilt '56 235 engine with dual carbs, Fenton intake and split Fenton exhaust, dual exhaust, everything works, great body, very very clean, nice paint, nice interior, new radial WW's, in great driving condition. Needs one door gl*** replaced, otherwise ready to be enjoyed. Bought it for $12,000.

Hope these comps help.

 

http://www.nadaguides.com/Cl***ic-Cars

Inspect the frame for rust through
Sagging body indicates collapsed cap supports

 

Boy you got that right.



This one was fairly complete, only thing really missing is they took out the bed strips when they put a bed floor in it. It looks nice in this photo but you get up close, the cab corners were rusty, the interior was trashed, the grill is chrome but every bar was smashed, back bumper was bent out, had a really big crease in front of the drivers door that would've had to be cut out and replaced (everything between the door jamb and the fender from rocker to cowl), they said they had it running but they couldn't get it running at the auction and even so, it was the stock 216. $5900 at an auction, literally in the middle of nowhere in SD, no online bidding.

 

What sort of rust? Is it more rust through, or just mainly surface rust? Definitely crawl underneath and look at the frame. Don't feel pressured or hurried, it's a big investment! Take a good look and point out any major flaws (such as a rusted through frame, cab mounts, door bottoms, rocker panels).

I got my 3100 for $4300 and probably should have talked him down some more based on things I discovered that I overlooked before

Definitely try to get us some pictures!

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My son bought a 57 shortbed, running 283/TH350, body decent needs rockers and floor section. Missing windshield and small misc. Paid $3000 with clean ***le. Hope that gets you in the ballpark. Remember...he wants to sell it, and you don't have to buy it. Lay down a legitimate and fair offer, and if he scoffs at it, leave your name and number and walk away. He may call. This is what he bought.

 

You have all been a huge help. I'm going to look in the am and will take some pics when I'm there. Obviously the frame is my major concern.

Some of the rust is rust through but in only a few places - the running boards and one spot in the bed. BUT, I can see just from their bad pics some bad bondo work on some of the wheel wells.

I know it's hard to say from lack of pics, but anyone care to suggest what they'd offer, even as a feeler?

 

That does help, thank you.

 

If it has bad bondo work visible from pictures then I would imagine the extent of the "repairs" is unknown. Who knows whats lurking under the paint. I'd honestly put it in the sub $2000 dollar range, we are in a slow economy and I've seen people sell projects they spent 10k on the right way (sandblasting bodywork engine rebuilds etc....) sell them for 2-3k because they need money. Patience is key in this game.


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This seems to be everything in the upper midwest - too many people watching buy n flip hot rod shows? Rust buckets with 5 to 8 k asking prices that "run."

 

when you look it over check the cowl area, as said, if it is rotted you have crossed over, into the, "rip it all apart and fix it world". if it just needs patching [of course it depends upon how much] it could be worth more. around here the weekenders that come up to their "country home" would pay $5000 for a running, moving, registerable, "farmy" looking truck, that they would use to go to starbucks in their riding boots in.
post detailed pictures, and we can advise you better on what you will be up against.

 

I paid $1500 for my '54. The previous owner paid $1700 to have it completely media blasted. He found out that it needed cab corners, cowl replacements, and floors along with an exhaust. I drove it home...
Then spent a bunch of money on it.
r

 

Thanks all - this is a huge help. Next - is there a preference (performance wise or aesthetically) for 3 on the tree vs 3 on the floor? The one I'm looking at is a column shifter.

 

The preference is whatever you want to drive. Neither one is much.
r

 

I'm from ND originally, and honestly even what most people on the HAMB here are paying for these things I consider high. I bought my '49 3600 running and driving for $300 when I was 13 (17 years ago) and the cab and front fenders has ZERO rot in it. It was mostly complete, the guy selling it said it had a flatbed on it but he found a pickup trailer box and put the bed on it, it doesn't have the full length fenders though and the box isn't horrible but not as good as the cab. A week after we brought it home, my dad met a guy from Chicago who owned a chrome plating business. He offered me $2000 for it. Turned him down.

I guess I grew up with these things laying around all over and I can't see paying the prices some are.

 

The next one you find for $2000 that looks like this and is ready to be shown/driven, buy it for me, and I'll give you a $1000 finder's fee.

 

on the original truck 3 on the tree was a 3 speed, if it was on the floor it was a 4 speed. you can put an after market shifter on the floor, but i actually prefer the 3 speed on the column.

 

I have sold two of them in the last 6 months.....I got $5,000 for the blue one and it was runner/driver. The other one was project that brought $3,250 Both trucks were solid

These AD chevy trucks have really gone up in value.

 

Added pics and details in original post.

 

Wow! $3500 for that? I'd walk away personally.

 

Although notthe worst ive seen, id say p*** and find something less rusty. The man hours of rust repair will kill ya...

 

Rust is in the usual places from what I see- most panels are available but then you
have to factor in the cost and the work- I bought my truck in a little better condition
as a parts truck for 750. No way would I pay over 1000 for that truck- the rust id too
extensive and the cost to fix would be to high.

 

My friend just bought a decent 51 he drove home for 4 grand original but wagon wheel and 235s. I'm a tight ***, I got this 3/4 ton no mtr trans but very solid for less than 700 the dark blue one is a 3/4 ton . looks good lwb


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there is some serious attention for that truck your looking at ...

i would be looking else where for something a bit more solid .... IMO

 

Way too rusty for that price. Second thought, way too rusty.

Neal

 

If you want a very long-term project, then go for it for $1000 or less. But man thats a TON of rust repair to do. You are better off finding a better example, even if you gotta pony up a few more bananas, you'll be money and time ahead in the long run.

 

There's a few builds on this model,if you chekem out,you can see the ''hidden'' rust once they get stripped down,be careful it's a ton of money,me i'd keep look'n. Good luck!

 

Not a chance I would even give $1000 for that. From all the rust I can see, I can only imagine how much rust there is that can't be seen. It's a rust bucket and will end up being a money pit. I would rather pay $6k for a rust free example than try to work with that one, even for $1k. Save your money and find the right truck. You will be really glad you did.

 

Thanks all. I p***ed on your advice.