Looking for a little guidance here in terms of positioning of a '55 Buick nailhead between my pinched 32 rails. I have put a simple engine dolly together with adjustable threaded rods in each corner to allow me to crank the engine up/down or slope it. This will allow me to keep it firmly in place while I mock up motor mounts etc. I have angled it slightly towards the rear till I got the top of the carbs level and this gives me a 4-5 degree slope. I ***ume that is "OK"... Centering between the rails is obvious but there is another aspect...how high/low in relation to the rails. What are the determining factors that fix the height? The engine looks to be about right but is there something I need to take into account here? Also, despite getting the engine level at the carbs it strikes me that when I attach the motor to the frame the front spring will sag slightly under the weight, bringing the front of the engine lower and getting the carbs slightly off level. How do I either a) compensate for that or b) prevent it? By the way, not mentioned here but positioning it fore and aft is I imagine down to getting it as far forward without actually hitting the crossmember/radiator. the nailhead is a looooong engine and I am trying to minimize firewall surgery. Thanks for any input you can provide. Hope the photos show the setup adequately.
Oil pan clearance from ground. Fan to radiator vertical relation. Carbs / air cleaners to hood interference. Manifold/headers to frame rails. Trans to floor.
Sounds like since you want to minimize firewall surgery, you'd also want to minimize floor surgery. The height of your transmission is probably something you should consider. And on the other side of that, how much oil pan clearance you'd have at ride height and during suspension travel (enough so it won't bottom out). As far as the angle or the engine, obviously as close to level for the carbs as possible, but make sure your the pinion angle of the rear end is close if not matching. Good choice of engines...I may be a little biased though as I have 3 sitting in my garage. Mine are of the later 401 variety though. I plan on dropping one in a set of deuce rails in the next year or so, so I'll be watching how this turns out!
You have about covered all the bases,and your not going to be off enough to case a problem,,I would suggest you set the firewall up on the frame to make sure you have ample clearance. HRP
Many thanks guys. I think 31 vicky's succinct post gives me the areas to watch and HRPs suggestion is likely me next steps. I will try moving the whole setup under the body and doing a trial lowering to see how well/badly it lines up. Still not sure how making the engine level and THEN attaching tho the frame which will result in it dipping at the front is offset but I will maybe have the engine SLIGHTLY sloping up to take that into account. then, when the frame takes the weight it will move lower.
A few ways to deal with your engine weight issue. Since you've built the adjustable crib for the engine, how about lifting the engine up, and setting two pieces of rectangular tubing across the frame and set the engine and crib down on top of the tubing. This will get the engine weight onto the frame. Take a come-a long or rachet strap and bind the front spring, then set the engine and crib back where you have it now. I usually have the block and heads supported in the frame with some tempoary cross pieces and using some bolt holes on the block to get it all to work out. Your set up will work fine. I've heard of guys using bags of cement as tempoary engine weight. Biggest thing is try to get the frame at the ride height / rake you want to end up with when making the final carb pad angle adjustments.
Wex, The rear of your frame will drop some also when the body, interior, etc. is installed. You also may want to consider reversing the firewall in the body instead of recessing it.
One other thing to keep in mind is how low your bellhousing will hang. The 54 nailhead in my roadster has a stock oilpan on it, but the trans adapter is slightly lower than the oilpan... and the ride height is also really low. If I am pulling into or out of a parking lot, I always judge the slope to estimate the angle hoping not to rub the adapter... and I have scrubbed more than a few times. Just something else you may want to consider. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Good idea on making sure the engine is sitting on the rails,the carb based as close to level as possible is essential for them to operate correctly. If you look at a marine application they compensate for extreme angle of engine with a wedge shaped spacer under carb. to level them out so they function the best they can considering the constant changing angles of water.
Here is something not mentioned the nailhead intake can be reversed if your carbs are slanting forward reversing the intake may just level them off. also it would be helpfull if you had your ****** hanging from the bellhousing and do as Jim suggested put all your weight on the springs and strap them down. Kevin
X2 on the ******. You'll want it attached during mockup to head off any issues, like pointing right at, above or below a crossmember. Also want the radiator and fan in place. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=41823&pictureid=487175
Radiator in place and allow room for the fan and some clearance. Don't know about your vintage, but the later versions had a short and a long water pump, that may help. Then worry about the firewall. Stick the distributor in before fitting the firewall to insure it will clear. Also don't forget the starter on the drivers side, could get close to the steering. Had to offset mine 1/2" to clear in my Model A. Just a little close to the hood on the p***enger side now. Good Luck, nice to see another nailhead going into a rod. Canuck
Sounds like everybody has the basics covered; but here is my take on setting this up. First, since you already have the engine blocked up on the floor, I would get the ch***is at your desired ride height sitting on either the tires you are going to use or mock up tires the correct diameter, front and rear. Either bind down the springs with ratchet straps or pull the springs and block to achieve the correct height. Next you should fit your engine with the transmission, water pump, fan, starter, distributor, etc. Probably start with the crank centerline about 2"-3" above the front crossmember and then with the thickest radiator you might use, space the motor with adequate fan clearance and go from there. I have always felt it was easier to visualize stuff with the ch***is at ride height on the right tires when setting something like this up.
This sort of goes back to the "mock up first" question right? All the stuff needs to fit and to be sure it fits you need all the stuff. Sometimes 1/4" will kill ya or save your ***.
Again, all great input. I have moved the frame/engine under the body and will be adding peripherals to the engine to get a better idea as to its full footprint. I will also get the wheel/tires so I can see the frame at proper ride height. The trans will be bolted to the engine in the next day or so. I will soon know what will hit/miss I guess. Vicky31, as you say...all about mock up. Get everything you can in situ to see what clears and what doesn't.
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