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Roothawg's hypothetical ? of the day...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Roothawg, Dec 17, 2003.

  1. JimC
    Joined: Dec 13, 2002
    Posts: 2,243

    JimC
    Member
    from W.C.,Mo.

    Raven, I do not have the name or number, but have talked to folks that have had it done.

    Gary Maddox, who will do the blasting on my frame knows the shop and I can get the name from Gary.

    I will be in Eau Claire, Wisc. this weekend, but if you will remind me on Sunday evening of Monday, I will get the name and number for you.
    WZ Junk may know if he comes by here.

    JIm
     
  2. JimC
    Joined: Dec 13, 2002
    Posts: 2,243

    JimC
    Member
    from W.C.,Mo.

    Roothawg, about taking the body off the frame?
    Do not use a chain through the windows and around the top. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    Jim

    What I did on the 62 is work and takes a little time. But it is cheap.

    I had the doors, rear deck lid and front clip off the car. I left the back gl*** and windshield in for some strength.

    I placed a 4x4 the width of the body between the frame and against the floor pan. I used a floor jack to taise one end a little. I, then blocked that end and went to the other end and did the same. I raised a little at a time on each end to keep the body twisting to a minimum or not all at all If i could help it.

    When I had the body lifted enough to get the frame from underneath the car, I used condrete blocks and longer 4x4 (between the body and frame) to hold the body.

    I took the rear wheels off the and placed the floor jack under the center section in line with the center of the body and let it down as close to the floor as I could get it with out it dragging. This allows the rear arch of the frame move just under the body.

    I used the front wheels in a hand over hand maneuver to roll the ch***is from under the body, and of course, to aid in steering. The floor jack under the rear follows, nicely.

    Al in all, it took me about an hour and a half and one six pack.(well maybe a little longer) [​IMG]
    Did I mention I took a break from all that hard wurk?
    Jim
     
  3. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,050

    Roothawg
    Member

    I may build a set of Camper styled jacks like GV mentioned. I used to have set but I got rid of em. I have a couple of winches I can use. This would be better than building an A frame even if I don't pull the body off of this one.
     
  4. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,050

    Roothawg
    Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    Was gunna try to get over there this weekend. [​IMG]

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Cool, how bout some more pics of your frame up close. I am still contemplating this. Sorry guys if I am wearing on you..

    Did ya bag both frt and rear? Curious about ****** tunnel clearances too.
     
  5. Rocket88
    Joined: Jul 11, 2001
    Posts: 912

    Rocket88
    Member

  6. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,050

    Roothawg
    Member

    Great pics 88.....I KNOW I don't wanna go that far.

    Thanks
     
  7. Rocket88
    Joined: Jul 11, 2001
    Posts: 912

    Rocket88
    Member

    Now you know why I did it though. That Olds ch***is is open all the way. Plus with that big X member in the center, it was really tough to get in there and give it a good cleaning.
    Your Fleetline will be much easier. That top hat style frame and no major cross members, cleaning it and the floor pan will be a whole lot easier. Just get in there with a wire wheel on the end of your angle grinder!
    Happy grinding!! [​IMG]
     
  8. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,925

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ya might as well pull the body,,I wasn't going to pull the body on the Ranch-Wagon,,,,but it just made it easier to do the frame work standing up instead of laying on my back. [​IMG] HRP
     
  9. 48dreams
    Joined: Sep 26, 2005
    Posts: 61

    48dreams
    Member
    from Queens

    Let me know what you need i may have some parts for your 48 to make it run
     
  10. Terry
    Joined: Jul 3, 2002
    Posts: 1,824

    Terry
    Member

    Root,
    I would have always said that if your that far go ahead and pull the body off. BUT that was before I built Slick, I had the idea to just build a Shop truck and no worries about mud, scratches, etc. And thats what I did. Now after 7500 miles since July I know I made the right choice.

    Coming home from Ohio we drove in rain, then the rear seal started leaking, then we made trips up to Bob's (I have NEVER seen so many bugs in one radiator!), Then I filled the driveway with the trailer and had to start parking in the back, which means driving down the alley. On and on it goes

    I go by the car wash spray what I can reach under there and hit the road again. True freedom! I tell you if your really going to drive it, try it once and you'll like it dirty.
     
  11. VonXulu
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 371

    VonXulu
    Member
    from Ventura Ca

    How is this question hypothetical? Just pull the body off the friggin' frame already Ha! You will be glad you did later anyhow.
     
  12. dragrcr50
    Joined: Jul 25, 2005
    Posts: 3,865

    dragrcr50
    Member

    Yo,Root........ do you want to make a way kool keeper out of it or is it worth a frame off for resale? or are you just ****.???

    Pull the body off and have the ch***is ready in no more than 2 weeks and get it back together dont just keep looking for stuff to do while its off, or it'l take forever.

    by the way I bought a 49 fastback in tuttle today for resale, pretty complete... be seein ya .............sw
     
  13. Old post huh????:D

    I'd say this- it can be cleaned all over under ther with the body bolted on....only under the bolts/washers, would be left -and they are usually still black paint under there when removed on most....It will be fine!
     

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